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#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
If anyone is not using Firefox3 yet now is the time and make sure to enable web color managment

Use Method 2 here
http://www.robgalbraith.com/bins/content_page.asp?cid=7-9311-9478

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FYI:
Weekly Photographic Assignment Master Thread Link here:
http://www.jemsite.com/forums/showthread.php?t=75066


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I'll start it, heres a few.



Here's the link if you want to see it bigger,for the panorama.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2198/2224923390_7bf0d3295a_b.jpg



 
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#191 ·
Hey Rotti, nice tri pod. I was looking at that joystick head at the local camera shop. It's very nice. I have not had a chance to use the 50mm anymore but the 17-70 is getting some good use. I took your advice, and tryed shooting in RAW. I think I got some good results. I did some editing, in the canon program and I see a big difference. So how do you post raw pics.
 
#196 ·
Chef, once you are done editing your RAW file you then save it as a jpg for viewing on the web.
Basicaly the diffrerence is that YOU are making the adjustments to the raw image file instead of your camera donig it automaticaly for you (in jpg mode). Once you get used to it you will get better results consistantly.
 
#195 · (Edited)
alot of nice pics above.

rotti's moon shot is excellent. DS - use mirror lockup on the slow exposures to avoid mirror shake and blur. the tripod would not matter if you have self-timer or remote control. that OOF is mirror shake, not tripod shake.

also worth taking the time doing is to learn ISO400-800 shooting with digitals. Especially with flash where Steves example show the flash can't handle properly lighting ISO100 at slow/closed aperatures. Had he been at ISO400 or ISO800 the flash can be used in hi-sync mode (above 1/60s) and require 4x output for the same exposure (quicker recharge/recycle and less battery drain). better digitals can shoot ISO1600 without requiring noise-reduction (when properly exposed)... glen
 
#197 ·
alot of nice pics above.

rotti's moon shot is excellent. DS - use mirror lockup on the slow exposures to avoid mirror shake and blur.... glen
Glen, thanks and thanks for the tip. I keep forgeting to use mirror lockup. On my old tripod if you looked though the viewfinder when you click the remote shutter cord you could actually see with camera shake using the 70-200mm. It is quite amazing how much that mirror moves the camera. I think in this case I had my shutter speed high enough that it didn't hurt to much.
 
#200 ·
You can't go wrong. That lens is such a good deal. I see mint used copies on fredmiranda everyday for $425.00 to $475.00.
I love taking mine to the beach. On a sunny day you couldn't ask for a better lens.

One thing that bothers me about my moon pic is that the top edge is pixelated. It's like that right from the RAW image. Not sure why.
 
#204 ·
raw helps alot (especially can correct exposure a few stops keeping the dynamic range) but you need more lighting there as well as more RAW tweaking.

bounced flash (ie index card with built in flash) would benefit those shots

can you post one of the RAW files somewhere? ...glen
 
#208 · (Edited)
Lethal those photos are nice. Esp. #'s 3&4 Maybe Nikon is not so bad. :)


Chef, yes I normaly buy used lenses. Photographers in general take good care of thier gear. BUT This lens (the 70-200) is such a good deal new (as Glen said)that it might be worth going that route. I paid about $525 for mine used and I think I could have got it new for about the same price after rebates.

Oh and #2 with the rings is very good. The others need white balance adjustment and higher exposure. Look for a white balance tool like a little eye dropper in your RAW software and use it to click on a white area of the card in the photo. That should get you close.
 
#212 ·
Thanks Distant, I think it comes with my job. I have a good understanding of presentation. I am really bad at sitting down and reading manuals though. Stubborn I guess. I seem to learn more from being shown something, or figuring it out on my own, than from reading.
 
#215 ·
I've read " The Digital Photography Book" By Scott Kelby, and he says 2 stops above the stop you are at would the sharpest. He has an example, where if the stop was at 2.8 the sharpest stops would be two stops above it, which is 5.6 and 8. The thing is , I dont know how you figure out the stops, because if I'm at 3.5, i wouldnt just adjust my aperture to 2 clicks would I? From 3.5 to 4.5 right?
 
#216 ·
kelby is very step orientated (ie. robot like... do steps 1-43 to get this result) without explaining the "why" so take what he says with that in mind

f/stops (going to the next to the right cuts the light in half or vice versa):
1.4 -- 2.0 --2.8 -- 4 -- 5.6 -- 8 -- 11 -- 16 -- 22​

each lens has an aperature range where you'll get the most sharpness. most lenses are not sharp until you close the aperature. For example alot of cheap lenses that are f2.8 are almost useless until you set them at f4

what kelby is also referring to is the more open the aperature (more light with alot of other factors) the less general sharpness and of course less depth of field. so for sharp shots you'd want to close the aperature... glen
 
#218 ·
I was talking to Glen about starting another thread on photography. The idea is that we pick one subject and everyone who wants to, photorgaphs that item. We all submit our pic, and we decide what one we like the best. The winner picks the next item and we continue from there. Anyone interested?
 
#221 ·
OK well Glen sugested we have another thread for just the photo's. I guess we need to come up with some guidlines. I don't mind photo shop being used. What about 1 week to enter your pic, only 1 pic per person. We decide as a group the best pic, then that person picks the next subject. This is ment to be fun so I guess not too many rules. Since guitars are what brought us together, how about " guitar " as our first subject. Please add to this what ever ideas you have to make it better.
 
#222 ·
we had a photo contest or two about a year? ago. you might want to search the offtopic/poll area for basic guidelines. you'd probably want the voting thread in a poll with the pics submitted. i would really, really suggest no photoshop whatsoever except basic level/exposure adjustment... glen
 
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