So I started a new OMC guitar build..have a question.

Aaron_Jem_FP · #1 06-10-2009, 11:37 AM

I've just ordered an orange multi-color adler Jem body. I should have it in about two weeks. Everything is good except for one thing. The PG, trem and jack cover holes. What's the best way to get those in without destroying the swirl? Obviously to drill them before hand would be ideal but not possible. My wood working is VERY limited (to basically destroying what I touch). Anyone have any tricks or anything to help out?

Should I clear-coat the body then drill them? Before I clear coat?

I'm kind of worried as I don't want to destroy a perfectly good swirled body based on my dumb moves.

Thanks guys! (Been a while but I'm starting to roll back on Jemsite more and more!)

PS-There's a good deal of people no longer here

Where' FloridaNative?

indeedido · #2 06-10-2009, 01:14 PM

You can put a piece of tape where you want to drill and drill through the tape. That will help keep it from splintering at the point of entry

Aaron_Jem_FP · #3 06-10-2009, 01:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by indeedido

You can put a piece of tape where you want to drill and drill through the tape. That will help keep it from splintering at the point of entry

Nice!!! Thanks for that

Rich · #4 06-10-2009, 01:25 PM

And when you take the tape off anything you've cracked will pull off with it.

Much will depend on how hard the clearcoat is. Hard is brittle, soft isn't. If it's hard, I drill a small pilot hole, then drill a hole bigger than the size of the screw thread, just through the finish [if you did any deeper the screw would be worthless sitting in a hole]. If you're smaller than the size of the screw when you screw it in, the force of the screw will chip it, if the clear is hard. Soft finishes like nitro and this isn't a problem, but that's not what it'll be finished in. Automotive clears are hard and brittle.

Work slow, let the bit do the work, do not put pressure on it or you can catch the clear with the but edge and rip a chip off.

Drilling the pilot holes before you clear will help you locate after, but the clear will fill in, you'll need to redrill.

Aaron_Jem_FP · #5 06-10-2009, 01:33 PM

I had planned on using nitrocellulous clear coat.

Those are some good tips Rich.

I'll drill pilot holes before clearing and then use tooth picks to keep them from filling up. I guess i'll get it down on the cover plates before I move to the pickguard. I just REALLY don't want to trash a swirl job. It's got me kind of nerve wrecked as the guy doing the swirling isn't willing to drill the holes before he does it.

Rich · #6 06-10-2009, 01:44 PM

You better make sure nitro is compatible with what he's using.

Aaron_Jem_FP · #7 06-10-2009, 01:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich

You better make sure nitro is compatible with what he's using.

It's what he stated in an Email when inquring. I sent another Email just to make double sure. I can already tell this is going to be a hassle.

Rich · #8 06-10-2009, 01:51 PM

That would not be the typical finish for a swirl, but I'm not saying there are rules you must follow either.

Aaron_Jem_FP · #9 06-10-2009, 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich

That would not be the typical finish for a swirl, but I'm not saying there are rules you must follow either.

I hear you. I'm double checking with the swirl'er. If he verifies then all is well. I haven't purchased any extra clear yet so I'll just wait and see what he says. This will be my 2nd clear coat job (the other one is the Atomic Orange 550 I did). I sleep just fine knowing i'll have to clear and polish it. But drilling those holes has me worried. I might just pay someone to do it correctly.

Rich · #10 06-10-2009, 02:00 PM

Somebody that has no more experience than you at doing it, and cares much less about your new project?

Aaron_Jem_FP · #11 06-10-2009, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich

Somebody that has no more experience than you at doing it, and cares much less about your new project?

Point taken

Well played sir!

For_The_Love_Of_Jems · #12 06-10-2009, 02:50 PM

I would only add one thing to Rich's fine directions. Use a superior quality drill bit so it will effortlessly drill through. No blunt, worn out, no-name bits!

Rich · #13 06-10-2009, 02:55 PM

Ditto. I never even think back to the times my bits were all rusted and duall as a concrete bit!

Gold bits, whatever the fancy name, no black bits.

Aaron_Jem_FP · #14 06-10-2009, 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by For_The_Love_Of_Jems

I would only add one thing to Rich's fine directions. Use a superior quality drill bit so it will effortlessly drill through. No blunt, worn out, no-name bits!

Yeah. 10-4. I've got a brand new set of Ti drill bits that i can use. I'll use the 550 you sold me as a template for the drill bits and just go from there.