tremolo problem.... :(

rx · #1 03-21-2005, 03:35 AM

here are pics of the problem.....

in this picture, you can see the stud chipped on the top. I can't adjust the height to do setups anymore, and currently the post is too deep in the body that the trem knife edge lifts up from the studs when I'm pulling up.

second pic.....

in this picture, the trem is not aligned in the routing. it's a bit on the right side, and the right side is closer to the nut than the left side. it is more noticeable if you look at where the fine tuners are..... the right side is almost touching the body, while the left side is far from the body.

third pic....

in this picture, you can see the trem block is a bit crooked, and the right spring is crooked

would replacing the trem studs fix this problem? thanks

Ibateur · #2 03-21-2005, 03:58 AM

Maybe an idea to replace both the posts and the trem? The knife edges could be worn down...

horstausmforst · #3 03-21-2005, 08:44 AM

You will have to replace your studs sooner or later, but the main issue here is the angle of your trem. Here's what it should look like:

http://www.jemsite.com/axes/detail/f_tr_e7a.jpg

That also explains your problems when pulling up. You'll have to loosen the springs in the back of your guitar to achieve a 'normal' angle.

Replacing the shot locking stud won't be difficult. I used pliers to grip it and 'screw' it out when I had a similar problem.

red5 · #4 03-21-2005, 04:19 PM

EMGs huh?

Talk to rich on www.ibanezrules.com

Ibateur · #5 03-21-2005, 04:35 PM

Horst, that's not the "angle" he's talking about...

The angle he's talking about is the "horizontal" (i.e. from the top) angle where the "footprint" of the trem seems to be wrong.

horstausmforst · #6 03-21-2005, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ibateur

Horst, that's not the "angle" he's talking about...

The angle he's talking about is the "horizontal" (i.e. from the top) angle where the "footprint" of the trem seems to be wrong.

I know what you (and rx) mean, and I agree that the 'trem footprint' is slightly off on his guitar, but the solution to his problem (trem lifting from the studs when he pulls up) lies elsewhere.
I have a saber with a 'footprint' worse than that, which is performing flawlessly. And since he's saying the right side of the trem is almost touching the body, that can't be the cause of his problem.
Anyway, look at the angle I meant.. the trem is clearly bottoming out with the 'tail' of the edge trem almost disappearing in the cavity.. although I'd have to see a side view to be 100% sure. My eyes have gotten old in the last few months

.

In extreme cases, this can lead to the trem resting on the 'inner upper edge' (hard to describe, I could try to draw a picture) of the trem cavity instead of the studs when pulling up. I hope someone will understand the last sentence, lol.

rx · #7 03-22-2005, 09:52 PM

thanks for the help guys. but the trem is already floating nicely, but the thing is, one stud is lower than the other. it's got many-a-problems, i dunno if a stud replacement would correct every issue or not.

thanks

**jemsite** · #8 03-22-2005, 10:08 PM

you can remove to trem (see tech section) to height adjust the trem w/ broken stud top.

what is the "problem" though? the pics don't show the left side of the one post and if it's touching the trem. if the trem posts are misalligned (factory defect) and the trem is rubbing the side of one of the post (instead of the knife edge only making contact) you will have tuning instability until the post is filled & redrilled... glen

rx · #9 03-27-2005, 12:50 AM

I just noticed that the left post is in too deep beyond the maximum limit. I removed the trem and all, but it's still not coming out because the post is like stuck there. seems like the post has been hammered down into the body. how do I take this out now? it's near impossible.

Shep · #10 03-27-2005, 04:45 AM

the best way to remove a stud is with a claw hammer.

just remove the whole trem, and rip out the whole stud and replace both with new ones

horstausmforst · #11 03-27-2005, 08:13 AM

Just to be on the safe side here:

You are aware of the small screw inside the stud that's used to lock it down in the anchor?

And you are aware that the anchors are supposed to be hammered into the body, while the studs are screwed into the anchors?

If you don't want to rip out the whole stud+anchor assembly, just firmly grab the stud head with some pliers and screw it out conter-clockwise. This should even work with the small set screw still locked in place.. they are pretty hard to move in old rusty studs anyway.

Good luck!

rx · #12 04-01-2005, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by horstausmforst

Just to be on the safe side here:

You are aware of the small screw inside the stud that's used to lock it down in the anchor?

And you are aware that the anchors are supposed to be hammered into the body, while the studs are screwed into the anchors?

If you don't want to rip out the whole stud+anchor assembly, just firmly grab the stud head with some pliers and screw it out conter-clockwise. This should even work with the small set screw still locked in place.. they are pretty hard to move in old rusty studs anyway.

Good luck!

a small screw insdie the stud? where? how do I take it out?

I know the anchors are supposed to be hammered down inside the body, but looks like this one went a bit too far and dented the wood inside, because the whole post is crooked a little.

thanks

Ibateur · #13 04-01-2005, 03:47 AM

There is a super small allenwrench that should have been supplied with the guitar. It is supposed to fit in the hole (loosely) of the stud and reach down to the bottom to fit the set screw.

I personally didn't know that this set screw screwed into the anchor. I only thought that it "leaned" into it to provide vertical stability. Screwing into the anchor doesn't make sense to me. But, I'm not an engineer...

GTR-MAN · #14 04-01-2005, 04:39 AM

Even if the there is a set screw for the stud, it should come out anyways. That's the best way to loosen them up is to loosen the stud anyway. I wouldn't worry about the set screw , you need to replace the stud anyway. It looks like you need a new stud/post. If the hex wrench wont turn it, take a pair of vice grips and unscrew it like horstausmforst said.

horstausmforst · #15 04-01-2005, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ibateur

I only thought that it "leaned" into it to provide vertical stability. Screwing into the anchor doesn't make sense to me. But, I'm not an engineer...

Yes you are correct, it just 'leans' into it for vertical pressure as you said. I meant the stud itself that is screwed into the anchor, not the set screw. Sorry for the confusion!