Question about changing the strings on my 1000

Scott 74 · #1 01-03-2002, 12:48 AM

I just need clarification on a minor detail. I'll try to be brief :loco:

Okay I put daddario 9's on as usual. Ball end at the headstock. Now usually once I get the string thru I pull it completely straight then slide my right hand underneath the string at the twelth fret. I keep my right hand vertical(like I'm shaking someones hand) and let the string rest against the knuckle of my thumb. Then from there I go on to measure the string 1" past the saddle then snip with my cutters install the string then tighten just enough to get rid of most of the slack. Of course I start from the low E and work my way down.

This time I didn't use my right hand at the twelth fret. Just pulled the strings straight and 1" past the saddle then installed. Does it make a difference either way? Thx and I hope I didn't confuse anyone.

**jemsite** · #2 01-03-2002, 12:51 AM

i don't understand quite what you're doing but i recommend this...

cut the ball end off immediately and first insert & clamp the string into the tremolo saddle.

string thru the nut, wrap tightly around the machine head, loop thru the hole and tune to pitch.

repeat for each string

...glen

Scott 74 · #3 01-03-2002, 01:04 AM

Maybe this will help:

I'd leave the ball end on. String it thru the tuning machine, then under the retainer bar, and thru the nut. Pull it straight against until it rests flat against the neck. put my right hand under the string at the twelth fret like I'm going to give it a karate chop all the while still pulling with my left. Then I measure the string an inch past the saddle, insert, and tighten. This time I didn't use my right hand so I'm worried I screwed up the whole thing and it's pulling my trem angle up? hope that helps and thx!

**jemsite** · #4 01-03-2002, 01:06 AM

IMHO you're off to a bad start leaving the ball end on and hooking up the machine head first... glen

Scott 74 · #5 01-03-2002, 01:14 AM

Is that bad for the tuning machines Glen? Thx.

Jason Stone · #6 01-03-2002, 11:30 AM

I'm going to have to disagree with Glen on this one. *I string my guitars up the same way that you do, Scott, with the ball end at the tuner. *I know that Rich and some other people around here do it the same way and just prevents you from stabbing yourself on the string ends if you do it Glen's way (i.e., the traditional way). *I remember some discussion some time ago about whether stringing this way affects your tone. *The answer is no, especially once you lock the nut. *The only benefits are that it's a bit quicker than the traditional way and it prevents the stabbies. *

*Actually, I find that it also makes removing old strings a bit easier.

I understand your question and the answer is that you should leave some slack in the string in addition to the 1-inch you usually leave because otherwise the string will tend to hang up on the ball end as the tuning posts twist when you're tuning up. *It's difficult to explain in a forum post, but I've run into this problem on the B and high E strings sometimes when I don't leave enough slack. *Basically, you want to leave enough slack in the string so that you get enough turns on the post for the string to leave the post at a point below (or above) the ball end. *Otherwise, you end up basically wrapping the string around the ball end. *If the string does not clear the ball end, the ball can actually push down on the string as you're tuning, kind of like if you were to push down on the strings behind the nut as you're tuning. *Since the higher strings are thinner than the lower ones, they need more slack than the lower ones. *

If this makes no sense at all to you, let me know and I'll try to post a picture or something when I get home.

J

Rich · #7 01-03-2002, 11:39 AM

I cut them all 1" behind the saddle, that always allows enough slack. Actually the high strings need less slack, 1 wind of a low e is about equal to 10 winds of a high e. It just nice to have the extra winds if you break the string as it allows you to reuse it.

Jason Stone · #8 01-03-2002, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Rich on 10:39 am on Jan. 3, 2002
I cut them all 1" behind the saddle, that always allows enough slack. Actually the high strings need less slack, 1 wind of a low e is about equal to 10 winds of a high e. It just nice to have the extra winds if you break the string as it allows you to reuse it.

Right. *One wind on the low E is equal to several winds on the high E, which is why you need MORE slack on the high E. *Maybe I'm not understanding you correctly. *

J

Rich · #9 01-03-2002, 11:57 AM

The more slack you add to the high e the more you end up needlessly winding. Unless you're preparing to reuse the broken string 2 or 3 times, the extra windings are unnecesary.

Jason Stone · #10 01-03-2002, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Rich on 10:57 am on Jan. 3, 2002
The more slack you add to the high e the more you end up needlessly winding. Unless you're preparing to reuse the broken string 2 or 3 times, the extra windings are unnecesary.

I would have agreed with you until I ran into the problem I described above. *I kept hearing this strange noise as I was tuning up and the tuning of the string would fluctuate wildly with just a small turn on the machine head. *I took a close look and realized that the string was being depressed by the ball end and was actually sliding over it, causing the string to go way sharp. *When I added enough slack for the string to clear the ball end, there were no more problems.

But in general, you probably don't need much more slack than you're already using. *It just helps avoid this problem if and when it arises.

J

Rich · #11 01-03-2002, 12:10 PM

Hmmm, I've never had that problem. Of course if you aren't watching you can wrap the string right around the ball, but I don't think this is what you're describing.

Scott 74 · #12 01-03-2002, 07:20 PM

I guess I just need to give the trem cavity screws a small turn then to bring the angle down. I just thought I wouldn't need to adjust the trem angle since I put the same type same gauge strings on. Thx for the help.

**jemsite** · #13 01-03-2002, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Scott 74 on 12:14 am on Jan. 3, 2002
Is that bad for the tuning machines Glen? Thx.

this has been discussed recently, so please do a search. It can scratch the machine heads yes, and offer more slippage as well as working for you effectively. As i said before, ultimately, if i paid for a tech to change strings and they left the ball ends on i'd either refuse payment or have them restrung. your mileage may vary

.. glen

Rich · #14 01-03-2002, 09:30 PM

Actually I'd love to hear about how those 2 little tiny spots where the ball touches the post causes more finish damage than the bare metal string itself does. And could someone please explain the physics of how a locked ball end can cause more slipage than a cut end? I sure don't get it.

If I thought there was any chance I was damaging a Donnie do you think I'd take it? ALL my guitars are strung the same way.

JESTER700 · #15 01-03-2002, 09:38 PM

One would think a steel string would cause at least as much damage as the softer brass ball ends. *I'm with you, Rich...