Slim down the JS1200 neck.

[darrenw5094]

I have a JS1200, but the neck at 22.3mm at fret #12 is a pinch to thick for my small fingers.
I have recently got 2 J Customs (RG8420 and RG8420). The neck profile is only 19mm at the 12th fret, which is perfect for me.

I still love the look and sound of the JS1200, so i don't want to let it go.
Is it a good idea to get a guitar player experienced in woodwork, to carve the fretboard down to 19mm or close to it?? Would the trus rod cavity be to close to the edge of the fret board?

Anyone with the same problems???

[jb4674]

If you feel like ruining that compound radius, sure go ahead. JC's have a flatter radius and a thinner neck (similar to that of a Jem) so they will be different when compared to a JS.

Jimmy

[John C]

Originally Posted by jb4674

If you feel like ruining that compound radius, sure go ahead. Jimmy

Huh? If you're slimming down a neck you would be taking wood off the back, thereby altering the profile but not the fingerboard radius. Would it alter the overall "geometry" of the neck? Of course, because the way a neck feels is a combination of the neck width, depth, overall profile, and fingerboard radius.

I completely agree that the JS profile is completely different than anything else Ibanez has right now; while I don't currently own any Ibanez guitars the only one on my radar screen would the the JS, and even though I have very small hands I find the JS to be a little on the small side - it feels like a slimmer version of a mid-60s Strat.

As someone who liked the very slim Wizard necks in the mid-80s, I would caution the OP that as you get older you might prefer - or actually need - a deeper neck as you get older. The really thin necks really make my hand cramp up these day.

[moebius]

Originally Posted by John C

Huh? If you're slimming down a neck you would be taking wood off the back, thereby altering the profile but not the fingerboard radius. Would it alter the overall "geometry" of the neck? Of course, because the way a neck feels is a combination of the neck width, depth, overall profile, and fingerboard radius.

I believe the compound radius refers to the back of the neck. So taking off wood would indeed alter it.

[John C]

Originally Posted by moebius

I believe the compound radius refers to the back of the neck. So taking off wood would indeed alter it.

Interesting - if that is the case then Ibanez is using the term "compound radius" completely differently from anyone else. Every other manufacturer/builder uses the term "compound radius" to refer to the fingerboard radius changing - for example the fingerboard radius would be listed as 10"-14" meaning the radius is 10" at the 1st fret it flattens out to 14" as you move down the neck (usually by the 12th or 13th fret).

I've always heard the change in depth of the back of the neck as being called "taper" - the JS neck has slightly more taper than say the Wizard neck.

EDIT: Okay, I went back and checked the Ibanez site - Ibanez calls the JS neck "multi-radius" not "compound radius" and they are referring to the back of the neck being somewhat asymetrical since it is a digital copy of Joe's favorite well-worn neck (the same process that Ernie Ball/Music Man used on the EVH Signatures and has applied to the 2 Steve Morse models). Essentially the "multi-radius" makes the neck feel already broken-in as it copies Joe's wear patterns.

Mobius, you and jb4674 are absolutely correct in saying that shaving the neck would likely ruin this "multi-radius" feature of the neck.

[waylay00]

I've never understood why people get so concerned about neck dimensions. I play just as well on my Les Paul's fat 50s neck as I do on my RG550 Wizard Neck.

And those are two polar opposites (unlike a JS and a JC compared together).

With that said, I'd just leave it as it is.

[kotornut]

Originally Posted by moebius

I believe the compound radius refers to the back of the neck. So taking off wood would indeed alter it.

Nope compound radius refers to the fretboard. Not the neck shape for sure. Radius always refers to the fretboard and not the neck shape. This is a Warmoth diagram but it serves as a good indicator of the terms and location of part of the neck http://www.warmoth.com/Guitar/Necks/Anatomy.aspx

They also use compound radius fretboards on their pro series. 'Compound' means the fretboard is conical. Near the nut the radius is rounder making it easier to fret first position chords. Then as it moves toward the bridge it gets flatter making it easier to bend notes and play solos. If you scroll down on that page it has a good description of what a compound radius fretboard is.


I think JB was just describing the neck in general not specifying what part would be ruined. Becaue there is a huge risk of destroying the whole neck if it is reshaped incorrectly or at all.

Look I feel like Waylay does, if you play it enough it shouldn't bother you. I tell people all the time that their had size doesn't really matter. Satch is a small man, a lot of guitarists are little guys. I've played Les Pauls with huge necks and I've played the thinnest wizards but after you become acustom to it you should feel comfortable.

[moebius]

I was thinking multiradius.

[Rodney James]

Just a note... since you like the way it sounds...Taking wood off the board may change the sound slightly or even more than desired. I had to take some of the fretboard off this 85 G&L to level it, once back together, the tone changed quite a bit more than I had imagined it would.

Also, taking wood off the back can turn out great, however it can take a bad turn aswell, I know of a couple necks, that once the memory of the wood is effected because wood was taken off, the neck shifted and unleveled the board.

Just food for thought.