I'm trying to correctly adjust the guitars action on the TIGHT END R bridge so it matches the fretboard radius, which per Ibanez is apparently 400mm on all non-prestige guitars (i.e. premium and such)
This is fine, except for the fact that I can't find too many 400mm radius gauges (converts to 15.748" inches or 15 3/4")
I only see 15", 16" and 17".
Should I round up and just use the 16" radius gauge? I'd assume the Ibanez factories have to have some "standard" when setting up these guitars properlyd so not sure what they use....
I mean, even the 430mm prestige necks are 16.9291", so there aren't EXACTLY a 17" radius gauge, so that seems how techs do it correct?
Anyhelp would be greatly appreciated, ordered out for some string action gauges, radius gauges, to setup my guitar up monday.
In the dark ages before they made all these fancy tools to spend money on, we used to use mm rules and feeler gauges, and walk to school in the snow uphill both ways!
how the heck would you use a mm ruler or feeler gauge to do that?
I bought this guitar because it was a hard tail, but all my old guitars were tremolos.
I miss the fact of just having to adjust TWO (2) screws for action height, then you really don't have to worry about the radius and you only check the action on the high E and low E.
it threw me off on this guitar because I have to adjust the action on each string, and then I realized the fretboard was contoured so having all string perfectly flat isn't obviously ideal.
Further more the fact that I didn't see any guages that matched the fretboard radius of this premium guitar exactly.
I appreciate the responses thus far, and will most likely use the 16" gauge.
Still a bit puzzled as to how the ibanez techs do it, because I would assume there has to be some "universal" method for setting the action to technical specs, that do not include "EYEBALLING" it lol :roll:
For the most part on my hardtails I just set each string as low as I can get it without fret buzz that comes through the monitors. I check every fret position on every string...
I could really care less if the radius of the strings is perfectly lined up to the fretboard radius. If the frets are level, the way I do it should work out pretty damn close anyway...
If one string ends up way too high then I know there's a problem and it gets fixed
There's a mm gauge on the multi-tool that comes with this guitar.
I like that the individual height can be adjusted for each string; one of the things I like on fixed bridge axes with the Tight End or Gotoh style saddles.
The only thing I'd add to the Tight End, and I don't know how practical it would be, would be fine tuners on the bridge like a Floyd for making minor adjustments live. It feels weird tuning on the fly at the headstock after using the Edge for so long. But that's me...
It's been an entire week and you can't figure out how to use a feeler gauge to set your action and we're the unscientific "grungy" dudes... OK pal
FWIW how do you know that the top of frets are perfectly matched to the radius of the board? The Indonesian factory workers aren't known for their attention to detail....
it's easier to set just measuring the low E action with mm ruler and high E, then using the radius gauge.
You and the other guy who keep insisting the feeler gauge - I don't think you ever understood the initial question: it was pertaining to the radius of the fretboards, not using some stupid gauge to determine action - I know how to do that.
People should really read the questions better before replying, and reply with actual useful information pertaining to the question, not idiotic banter that has nothing to do with the original topic, like, why even type at that point lol? you're just wasting your time, good day.
So, you adjusted action on the two outside strings and then set the rest of them using a radius gauge that wasn't the correct size. You did an inferior job because it was easier AND complained about people who we're trying to help you set up each string as well as they could be without using some inacurate gauge? OK. BTW - you did say that any help would be appreciated. I hope you don't need help I the future, because you're not likely to get it.
You are really missing the point, it's quite funny actually. Using a feeler gauge is going to provide you with the exact same thing. Want consistent action across all strings, pick a height (eg 2mm). Now use the 2mm feeler gauge to measure each string and adjust as required. That will give you the radius of the fretboard, will it not?
People posting should actually read the replies given by people and actually take it in, rather than just ignoring it and treating it as idiotic banter. They might actually get to where they want to be then.
If you need help understanding how you would use the feeler gauge then you really need to put the tools down and get someone to do the work for you.
You are going out of your way to avoid thinking about the alternative way because you just don't want to do it. In the process you are acting like an ass to everyone else who are offering legitimate advise. Just drop the thread and move on...
If you need help understanding how you would use the feeler gauge then you really need to put the tools down and get someone to do the work for you.
You are going out of your way to avoid thinking about the alternative way because you just don't want to do it. In the process you are acting like an ass to everyone else who are offering legitimate advise. Just drop the thread and move on...
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