GAS Claims Another Victim!1

[Salamander In The Sun]

Well, I picked up an '86 USA BC Rich ST-III a week or so back, and figured I'd show her off. According to the neck plate, it was made in LA, California.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...GEETARS004.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...GEETARS003.jpg

Sorry I'm such a crappy picture taker.

I am kind of diasppointed that I have to replace the Floyd on it, as it broke the first day I got it. But, it was practically a steal, so whatever.

Also, since it has an older style locking nut, I had a question for y'all. There's some itsy bitsy cracks around the 2 screws that bolt the lock nut to neck. Will my guitar be okay?I've heard about this happening with older style ones, but wasn't sure if it posed a threat to my neck or not. Thanks.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...GEETARS006.jpg

[Salamander In The Sun]

*cough*

I'd really like to know about the cracks near the lock nut.

Why do you people hate me so?

You guys suck.

[Salamander In The Sun]

Cracks?

[jim777]

Very thin 80's necks typically develop cracks there from a mix of weather and owner incompetence. Wood expands and contracts with changes in temperature and humidity, sometimes leaving the locking nut bolts a little loose. Owners tighten up their nuts (hey, who doesn't? ), and the neck cracks when the wood gradually expands. You'd rather have the cracks run up towards the tip of the headstock than towards the fretboard or down the neck, but as long as you don't mess too much with the nut you should be ok. Again, this happens a lot with thin Wizard style necks, so lots of Ibanez and Rich owners have seen these. I think you'll be fine.

[Salamander In The Sun]

Thank you so much! I thought I was never going to get a reply. After 106 views, and no replies, a man starts to get desperate.

That's comforting.

Is there anything I can do to prevent the cracks from advancing? I was thinking about something along the lines of spreading some Titebond over the cracks, then clamping the neck to press the cracks back down into the wood, and maybe prevent them from spreading further.

[OLIE_ROCKS_THE_80'S]

Just so you know that BC Rich is not made in America it is made in Japan in spite of what it says on the neck plate. American made BC Riches say USA on the headstock and sport an OFR or Kahler and have name brand pups.
Still congrats on the acqusition.

[Salamander In The Sun]

Originally Posted by OLIE_ROCKS_THE_80'S

Just so you know that BC Rich is not made in America it is made in Japan in spite of what it says on the neck plate. American made BC Riches say USA on the headstock and sport an OFR or Kahler and have name brand pups.
Still congrats on the acqusition.

Way to spoil my fun!

Naw, just kidding. MIJ is just as good as MIA, to me at least. It's the first guitar I've ever owned that's of really good quality, so I'm tickled pink either way.

I ordered an OFR, and a Seymour Duncan JB for it. So when I'm done, it'll more or less be equivalent to an MIA BC Rich.

I wonder what singles I should get for it.

Thanks for the congrats, I appreciate it.

[JackButlerGOT]

Nice looking guitar..especially considering the age! The headstock shape is that one used for the old N.J. (japanese made series). AWESOME bang for the buck. On early 90s versions of USA made BCR's they also had their own BC Rich stamp version (liscensed) Floyd, very similiar to the same bridge used on Gibson WCR (Wayne Charvel) guitars from that same early 1990s period.
THANKS for sharing the pics.

[Salamander In The Sun]

Originally Posted by JackButlerGOT

Nice looking guitar..especially considering the age! The headstock shape is that one used for the old N.J. (japanese made series). AWESOME bang for the buck. On early 90s versions of USA made BCR's they also had their own BC Rich stamp version (liscensed) Floyd, very similiar to the same bridge used on Gibson WCR (Wayne Charvel) guitars from that same early 1990s period.
THANKS for sharing the pics.

Thanks! I appreciate it.

I think the "Bang for your buck" factor was increased even more, considering I only paid $100 for it. Even after I was forced to order an Official Floyd, it only comes out to about $270. And I'd pit that up against much more expensive guitars.

Thanks also for the info. I'm learning new stuff about my guitar every time one of you guys post in my thread.

No problem, I'm happy to share pr0n.