String gauges

[NeglectedField]

Which string gauges do you guys use on your 7s if not the standard 9-54, and how many of you needed to have truss-rod adjustment as a result of changing gauges?

[eelblack2]

You will almost certainly need a truss rod crank if you shift guages for maximum playability - especially if your neck is of the somewhat thinner Ibanez or similar variety. Anytime I shift guages on a given guitar, the first think I look at is neck, then tremolo if applicable. Often its a matter of adjusting both in tandem until you get the straightness and lowness of action that is desireable.

[Drew]

Pretty much what eelbkack said. A truss rod adjustment, once you get your head around what you're doing, is actually a pretty simple tweak so don't let that scare you. Re-adjusting the spring tension on the bridge is actually the harderst part of a string guage change, IMO.

Personally, I use an Elixer 10-46 set. I've been using a .56 B for a while now, but I think that's even slightly too light for 9's, much less 10's (.58 is my preferred guage for a set of 9's, it balances pretty well against the E). Since Elixer doesn't offer anything between .56 and this, I've got a few .68's in the mail. My Hellraiser has, I believe, a .70 on it right now from the duyde I bought it off, and even with the longer scale it's pretty manageable. Meanwhile the .56 on my UV feels like a joke, it just flops too much under a moderate pick attack compared to the low E.

I think a .54 B (much less a .52, which I've seen on occasion) is ABSURDLY light.

[HoP]

I tune to standard A, and I use 10-60 dean markley blue steels

[NeglectedField]

Originally Posted by Drew

Pretty much what eelbkack said. A truss rod adjustment, once you get your head around what you're doing, is actually a pretty simple tweak so don't let that scare you. Re-adjusting the spring tension on the bridge is actually the harderst part of a string guage change, IMO.

Personally, I use an Elixer 10-46 set. I've been using a .56 B for a while now, but I think that's even slightly too light for 9's, much less 10's (.58 is my preferred guage for a set of 9's, it balances pretty well against the E). Since Elixer doesn't offer anything between .56 and this, I've got a few .68's in the mail. My Hellraiser has, I believe, a .70 on it right now from the duyde I bought it off, and even with the longer scale it's pretty manageable. Meanwhile the .56 on my UV feels like a joke, it just flops too much under a moderate pick attack compared to the low E.

I think a .54 B (much less a .52, which I've seen on occasion) is ABSURDLY light.

I have a 7321 so I don't have to worry about trem issues. Having only had it for a week or so it's still on 9-54, very light and sloppy especially on the lower strings but quite fast. I was thinking (if I do choose new gauges) of going for a 9-46 + 56 for the B, but I'm not sure if that'll cause bowing in the neck. Or possibly going for 9, 11, 16, 24, 36, 46, 56...

[HoP]

trussrod adjustments are simple and its something that must be done. dont pick your guage of string because of truss rod issues.

[Roland]

GHS Boomers, 10-60. Works wonders, in my opinion. And I'll chime in on the above post: truss-rod adjustments are easy, by no means should you choose gauge because of the truss-rod.

[stretcher7]

9-54 on thicker necks. 9-56 on thinner ones.

[toshiro]

I've got 9-46 +60 on my Schecter tuned to Bb.

[Brord]

11-50+68/70 Tuned to A standard

[heavy7-665]

13-52 +70 tuned G standard on a 7321 but i don't think i need to touch the truss rod sounds fine and i don't know how

[jaxadam]

Originally Posted by heavy7-665

13-52 +70 tuned G standard on a 7321 but i don't think i need to touch the truss rod sounds fine and i don't know how

Wow, that's low and heavy.

[fettouhi]

Originally Posted by jaxadam

Wow, that's low and heavy.

+1

Regards

André

[Planeflux]

EDIT: just realized I posted 6-string gauge sets in a 7-string section.

[Roland]

A set of GHS Boomers 10's with an added 52 for low E and 68 for low B, tuned to A standard.