Best method for changing string gauge....?

TheJazzTerminator · #1 07-21-2007, 08:24 PM

Could someone give a good description of the exact procedure for changing string gauge with the smoothest possible transition? For example, I use D'Addario .009's and I want to switch to D'Addario 10's and I still want to use three springs in the same formation ( ||| ) that I have now.

Can someone explain the best possible way to do this with the least amount of trouble? I know I'll have to adjust the trem with the screws in the back, but a step by step type of deal would be nice.

TheJazzTerminator · #2 07-21-2007, 08:25 PM

BTW, it's an Ibanez RG3120 (six strings, floating trem).

LuredMaul · #3 07-21-2007, 08:41 PM

take off old strings......put new ones on.....adjust and tune until level.......there is no magic pill

TheJazzTerminator · #4 07-21-2007, 08:45 PM

I know HOW to do it.

What I'm asking is.... when I change the strings, should I let them sit on the guitar before I tighten the screws or should I do it right away? Should I let the guitar sit overnight without being locked down or not? You know, that type of stuff. The little 'tricks' that might help affect the playability with the heavier gauge.

What I'm really trying to do is minimize the amount of stiffness that will be created from going from .009's to 10's. I really like the slinkiness of the guitar with .009's, but I really want to try 10's because I know the tone will be fuller.

Martyr Machine · #5 07-21-2007, 09:30 PM

Take the guitar to a tech and have him adjust the truss rod and do a complete setup.

Quote:

What I'm really trying to do is minimize the amount of stiffness that will be created from going from .009's to 10's.

You won't without downtuning.

TheJazzTerminator · #6 07-22-2007, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martyr Machine

Take the guitar to a tech and have him adjust the truss rod and do a complete setup.

Not to sound like an ass or anything because I appreciate all responses, but.... why am I getting responses like this? Obviously, I KNOW I can take it to a luthier and have HIM do it. However, I want to learn how to do it MYSELF. I thought that was fairly obvious by the first post.

Martyr Machine · #7 07-22-2007, 12:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheJazzTerminator

Not to sound like an ass or anything because I appreciate all responses, but.... why am I getting responses like this? Obviously, I KNOW I can take it to a luthier and have HIM do it. However, I want to learn how to do it MYSELF. I thought that was fairly obvious by the first post.

You're getting responses like this because screwing up a truss rod adjustment can ruin your neck.

TheJazzTerminator · #8 07-22-2007, 12:37 AM

I know. I meant.... why am I being told to 'take it to a tech?' I know I can take it to a tech!

LuredMaul · #9 07-22-2007, 01:45 AM

What you need to do is just put them on....then and only them can you asses what you need to do next
some necks will play fine right away; some will freak out and need a truss rod adjustment
jump in and figure it out like the rest of us.....there is no magic pill here for us to answer you with

**jaxadam** · #10 07-22-2007, 02:22 AM

Do this:

Take all of your old strings off.

Put your new ones on and tune up.

You will probably notice that the trem has pulled forward a bit. Tighten the trew claw screws until it is almost neutral in the positive direction. This will raise the pitch, so once you lower the pitch, it should slowly but surely get close to neutral.

Then, check the action on your neck. You may have to tighten the truss rod a smidge to bring it down.

Once everything is up to tune, stretch the strings good for a few minutes, fine tune, and if you really want, leave the nut unlocked and check it a little while later for any further truss rod adjustments.

I've locked my guitars down the same night and not had any problems.

Going from 9's to 10's won't be a very big deal.

Oh, and about the tone thing...

Going from 9s to 10s on some of my trem equipped guitars doesn't really seem to make the tone "bigger", it just makes it feel a little "tighter" when in the same tuning.

BUT, on my PRS Custom 22 with a stoptail, going from 9's to 10's seemed to make a pretty big difference.

TheJazzTerminator · #11 07-22-2007, 02:25 AM

I don't think you guys understand what I was asking at all. So, nevermind. Thank you for your time, though, regardless.

**jaxadam** · #12 07-22-2007, 02:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheJazzTerminator

I don't think you guys understand what I was asking at all. So, nevermind. Thank you for your time, though, regardless.

Dude, I don't think you know what YOU'RE asking.

There is no "If going from 9's to 10's, tighten your trem claw screws two turns, lower your bridge 2mm, and tighten the truss rod 3/8 of a turn and your guitar will be perfect".

Is is an old guitar or a new guitar? Are you still going to be tuned up to the same pitch?

There's more than one way to do something. It sounds like you just need to do it a few times to find out how you wanna do it and what works for you.

TheJazzTerminator · #13 07-22-2007, 11:34 AM

I know exactly what I'm asking and here it is again:

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheJazzTerminator

I know HOW to do it.

What I'm asking is.... when I change the strings, should I let them sit on the guitar before I tighten the screws or should I do it right away? Should I let the guitar sit overnight without being locked down or not? You know, that type of stuff. The little 'tricks' that might help affect the playability with the heavier gauge.

If you read Rich's tech section on Ibanez rules, he gives a lot of 'extra' advice in addition to the basic stuff (which I already know, obviously). I simply didn't find anything on changing string gauges. It'd be cool if he had a section for that because I'd like to know how he does it. He seems to give really good setups, judging by what everyone around here says.

Sorry for jumping down your throat, thanks for your help!

EDIT:

And, to answer your question, it was made in 2000 as evidenced by the serial number (F00XXXXX).

shogun · #14 07-22-2007, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martyr Machine

You're getting responses like this because screwing up a truss rod adjustment can ruin your neck.

theres only 2 things you can do to a truss rod.. tighten, and loosen give the guy a break.. why is everyone being an ******* instead of helping the guy out?

if i were doing it i would just change the strings, and then adjust the springs after.. you would probably want to intonate after, you may or may not have to adjust the truss rod.. check the bow of the neck after everything is setup to your liking.. chances are if the neck moved it would be a forward bow.. tighten the truss rod an eighth of a turn, push the headstock back a bit, and watch the change in the next few days.. if there is still too much bow do it again an eighth of a turn.. you will have to reset your action after this.. be careful.. dont strip any parts.

TheJazzTerminator · #15 07-22-2007, 12:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shogun

theres only 2 things you can do to a truss rod.. tighten, and loosen give the guy a break.. why is everyone being an ******* instead of helping the guy out?

if i were doing it i would just change the strings, and then adjust the springs after.. you would probably want to intonate after, you may or may not have to adjust the truss rod.. check the bow of the neck after everything is setup to your liking.. chances are if the neck moved it would be a forward bow.. tighten the truss rod an eighth of a turn, push the headstock back a bit, and watch the change in the next few days.. if there is still too much bow do it again an eighth of a turn.. you will have to reset your action after this.. be careful.. dont strip any parts.

THANK YOU! Finally.

One more question -- considering I have the springs in this formation right now: ||| .... will I most likely have to change them to \|/ or will ||| stay the same with the 10's?