Disconnecting Spring Reverb? Bias Mod? Peavey VK100

[Guitarist-Jonny]

Hi all, I'm wondering if I would damage an amp (Peavey Valveking 100 head in my case) if I just disconnect a spring reverb? Do I need to connect the two phono style connectors together or something? The reason I'm asking is I don't particularly like the sound of spring reverb atm and if I can take the 'verb tank out I think my Peavey Valveking's power tubes will be easier to see from the front of the amp, which I think will look pretty awesome when they're glowing :P! If I bypass the spring reverb, could my tone change or anything?
Some of these answers may be obvious, but I have to make absolutely sure before I do anything as I don't want to ruin my amp !

Another thing, does anyone have any suggestions or experience on (how to do) a bias mod on the VK head? I read somewhere that it can make a fairly big positive difference to the tone, as well as giving me the ability to balance the current running through the tubes,which currently I can't do (which is worrying me a little as I need to change the tubes and don't want the new tubes prematurely wearing).
Thanks
Regards
Jon

[Guitarist-Jonny]

Ok, VK 100 bias mod is replacing R205 (39K) with a 20K fixed and a 50K Variable. Using the Tube amp doctor Bias Master (BM4) to measure the Bias (Oh, and I'm planning on doing this without killing myself xD).
Anybody know about the spring reverb? Can it just be removed and the red and white things be connected together? I'm not sure I still want to do this, but it's for future reference at least !
Thanks
Regards
Jon

[RSVampire]

you should be able to just disconnect it and leave it alone. no need to connect the wires together.

[Guitarist-Jonny]

Thanks for the reply dude ! Are you sure of this?
Thanks
Regards
Jon

[SonicProvocateur]

Yes, just disconnect the RCA cables to disconnect the reverb function.

As for the bias mod, are you planning on running KT66s or 5881s or something? The Peavey is fixed bias, and biased on the warmer side so that you are less likely to blow power tubes and have more even wear on the tubes. Be sure to discharge the capacitors before working on everything, and familiarize yourself without the layout of the wiring diagram before doing something like a mod like that. It would be very easy to adjust the pot too cold and blow tubes/burn out a screen grid resistor, or worse, fry your transformer.

Good luck!

[Guitarist-Jonny]

Just want to adjust bias, the bias on it was set REALLY hot for my tubes so I wanted to cool it down. The caps are self discharging if I'm right. If not, how do I know which ones need discharging? What's the safest way of doing it?
I've done the bias mod. All tubes are recieving current, but only one pair are recieving signal (I have circuit diagrams I can post if this will help you help me :P.) I have had them down pretty low to test the sound. Before the bias mod I could see only one pair were working I'm sure, another reason for this is that when my 'texture' knob is to class A it's actually louder than my class A/B 'mode'. Will this just be a case of a blown resistor? If so, am I ok just using a multimeter to test the resistance of each resistor close to the screengrid to see if it gives a reading?
Thank you so much for your help !
Regards
Jon

[Guitarist-Jonny]

Ok, so one of my tubes is playing up- replaced them with an older pair this morning to find a HUGE improvement in sound quality. My only question now is, why does my Valveking get LOUDER when I turn the texture knob to class A? I'm presuming that, considering A/B mode is also captioned 'High Power', turning the texture knob towards A/B should give an increase in volume right?
Thanks
Regards
Jon