F.A.O. Kev, or anyone else who knows - Board Removal Query

[ripl3y]

Kev,
Regarding the board removal tutorial you posted to Brian's site a while back.

I can see that Ibanez don't use a fillet over their truss rod's (at least on that FP anyway)
I also notice a groove/rout on the underside of the fretboard.

My question is, was it an actual rout or an indentation caused by the rod and the lack of a fillet?

It looked deeper towards the middle to me, which would suggest it was a rout.
If so then this would explain why Ibanez can get their necks so thin without the truss popping out of the back (and give me the info. I need for a move in the "thin" direction for the future)

Cheers
Steve

[Kevan]

Umm...it's glue.
:biggrin:
The "route" you see on the back of the fretboard is residual dried glue left-over from the initial attachment process.

Sorry it wasn't something more techie. *:-)

[ripl3y]

Damn!

You need a new camera! Or I need new eyes! :biggrin:

I still take it there was no fillet, and do you know the depth of the rod they use? (it's a very fine line)
This is all contributing to making me a living in the not too distant future, so any info. is welcome.

Ta

Steve

[frankfalbo]

You can make a Wizard neck with most any double expanding truss rod. The key is to be perfect in your rout, and your neck carving. *It is to my knowledge that the reason there is a Wizard II from Korea is that they can't do a real Wizard without blowing it in the hand sanding stages, and entering the truss rod channel from behind. Their truss rods are also a little bigger and welded more clumsily, requiring a looser channel to allow for tolerances. *The stew-mac hotrod is useable, but what is not, is a traditional rod with a filler strip on top to put a curve in it. You don't have the back clearance to get any usefulness out of it. *The truss rod won't "pop out" of the back because there is no pressure to the back of the neck , just upward pressure under the fretboard, and backward pressure bu the headstock, where the neck has gotten a little thicker. It is part of the cause of the cracks by the lock nut bolts, though, and why I make a volute on any floyd nut necks, especially Ibanez types.

[Project Guitar]

Steve,

* *I have one apart right now, just let me know what photo's you would like to see and I'll link for all to see or e-mail them to ya.......

Peace =o)

[ripl3y]

Good to see you back Brian, I've just got back from a visit to my mum (she ain't too well atm)

If you could just measure the rod depth and width and if at all possible and the thickness of neck between the bottom of the truss channel and the back of the neck.

If you could get a close up of how their channel is routed (i.e. deeper at the centre-rising towards the end) I'd be very appreciative.

Thanks
Steve

P.S. Mail me sometime, I've a template to send to you. (I still owe you one)

[GhesQi J]

Brian, is it possible to post that information on this forum?

Quote from ripl3y, posted on 4:58 pm on Aug. 29,2001
If you could just measure the rod depth and width and if at all possible and the thickness of neck between the bottom of the truss channel and the back of the neck.

If you could get a close up of how their channel is routed (i.e. deeper at the centre-rising towards the end) I'd be very appreciative.

I'm also working on a project, and in a few weeks I will tackle the truss rod routing of my wizard neck. Only, I'm still researching on how deep I should go.
Any measurments from "the real thing" would be very useful.

Cheers,

Joten

[Project Guitar]

I'll post the info tomorrow !

[Project Guitar]

It's tomorrow already? Man I gotta quit slipping into those friggin time warps...:mc:

[GhesQi J]

Thanks for the info.

Is the truss rod cavity 3/8" deep over the whole length of the rod, or is there a deepest point (at the middle of the rod) in the cavity ?

Cheers,

Joten