fixed bridge on a floating bridge ibanez..questions

Ki swordsman · #1 10-13-2005, 04:57 AM

if i did something like this.. http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht2.htm

firstly is it fine keeping the locking nut at the headstock and using it?
obviously the new bridge won't be locking.
as far as i can see this would be sweet, no need for locking tuners. but there may be something subtle i'm missing?
like if a floyd guitar that is designed for certain string heights as opposed to a fixed bridge guitar etc

fspacing- the jem neck,pups and bridge are all Fspaced i assume..
are all nontrem and strat type bridges Fspaced? is it only really tunomatics etc that aren't? cos i don't see any Fspace labelling on bridges in online shops..

'sustain block' on bridges, these seem optional all the time, is it just a model with a big metal block that sits underneath like our edges etc?
i'm just after a bridge that sits and screws in on top so i don't think this would be what i'm going for

lastly i won't be using vibrato probably, but are there any specific reasons to not go with a vintage/strat style like this.. http://www.wdmusic.com/wilkinson_con...24862_prd1.htm
(that one has the sustain block thing i think, i would get the option without it)

..and to instead go something like this? http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bridges,...s.html#details

thanks for your time guys
i'm not in the dark, just need some clarification

nickcoumbe · #2 10-13-2005, 05:21 AM

Don't know about sustaining block etc, but if you use a locking nut, make sure you get a bridge with tuning adjusters on it. Otherwise you have to undo the nut everytime you want to tune.

I suspect that you can get f-spaced hardtail bridges without too much of a problem.

Ki swordsman · #3 10-13-2005, 05:32 AM

aah yeah sorry, that's something i totally meant to ask with that- is it possible to get locking fixed bridges etc?
or instead, if i didn't use the locking nut, should i actually replace the whole locking nut with something or just leave the bottom piece there?, maybe filing down the metal bumps on it a bit

i thought fender style hardtails already were Fspaced?

Ki swordsman · #4 10-13-2005, 06:46 AM

i guess if i went with a normal bridge i'd prefer to replace the nut with something standard and maybe get locking tuners, would nut replacement like that have any difficulties on a jem?

Ki swordsman · #5 10-15-2005, 08:57 PM

cmon folks, i know there's a lot out there that know this stuff :P

ryanb · #6 10-15-2005, 10:00 PM

Hi Ki

As for the nut: As mentioned, if you want to keep the locking nut, you'd better find a bridge with some sort of fine tuner or you are going to have a nightmare of a time getting it tuned (the tuning changes when you lock down the nut). The FXEdge from the JS2000 is the idea, but you can't buy them. I think someone pointed out a fixed, fine tuner bridge alternative, but I don't remember what it was. Maybe try a search.

Of course another alternative (as mentioned here before) is to remove the trem block from the bottom of an Edge series (or other) trem and mount it as a fixed bridge. (look up that thread if interested)

Yes, the Fender style fixed bridges are F-spaced. The spacing numbers are available from the manufacturers. Though realistically, it doesn't make that much difference other than cosmetic.

The sustain blocks are the big metal block on the bottom of the trem. Those (and the link you posted) are standard Fender style trems ... not fixed bridges. They can be set up for dive only, or dive and some pullup too. They can be blocked to "fix" them. But if you are going to do all of the work suggested in the PG tutorial, you want a true fixed bridge.

The hipshot bridge you linked is a nice bridge. I have two of them sitting here and will be putting one on a guitar soon. It is a nice quality piece, and I think it is a lot nicer looking and feeling than most of the typical Fender style bridges out there.

I would not suggest using the lower half of your locking nut alone either. They aren't meant to be used that way, and the shape of the nut slots may not be good enough to give you a good sound (you can try and see). You'd be better off with a standard nut and locking tuners ... but then you would have to deal with the nut conversion.

You should consider why you are making these changes to this particular guitar. These are pretty extensive changes, so it would be cheaper and easier to start with another guitar that was closer in the first place, unless you have a particular reason to do it to this guitar. Maybe a used fixed-bridge RG? Just an idea.

Ki swordsman · #7 10-15-2005, 10:38 PM

thanks man

yeah this is a project i might do to a 555. i'm pretty set now that i'd prefer to replace the nut and go locking tuners,

anyone got advice on that nut conversion?

i'll try to find that thread you mentioned too, sounds interesting

this'll be a pretty cosmetic guitar hence the f space haha, thanks for the clarity on that

basically at the moment it's coming down to choosing a bridge and learning about the nut conversion..

Ki swordsman · #8 10-15-2005, 10:42 PM

if i chose a standard fender trem but without the sustain block, would it be as simple as screw in on top? so no routing right? cos there's nothing to go inside the guitar, except holes for strings of course ya?

http://www.jhs.co.uk/wilkinson.html#vibratos
it seems the models here can be either with or without the sustain block

edit- couldn't find that thread mate
i guess the reason i still want to consider a strat trem is cos i simply like the look of the design, any other cool modern looking fixed bridges around like the hipshot???

Ki swordsman · #9 10-15-2005, 11:54 PM

do you have a pic of a guitar of yours with the hipshot ryan?? it'd be great if i could paintbrush the bridge onto my design and check it out, the hipshot looks pretty suave so far.

i havn't been able to find a pic of one from directly in front yet

ryanb · #10 10-16-2005, 04:02 PM

Nut conversion: Removing the locking nut is easy enough, as are the locking tuners. You will probably need to fill in some wood behind the new nut (in the space of the locking nut). That could just be glued in. Then get a nut blank and cut out a new nut (or have it done). That's a whole topic of its own, but not too hard.

Bridge: I'm not sure those Wilkinsons are what you are after, though you could probably make it work. My read (though it is hard to tell) is that they all come with a trem block, but you have the option for the all steel one (don't know WHAT the standard one is). Notice that they all have the trem arm, which does no good on a fixed trem. Those may not be flat enough on the bottom to sit right without modification. Also, notice how they mount. You can get the vintage Fender style 6-screw mount, where the trem pivots on the 6 screws on the front edge. They have the old stamped saddle design too (which I am not a big fan of). Or you could get the newer Fender American style with the two front-edge pivot screws (or posts on some), and the beefier saddles. Either way, they are designed to pivot on those screws, and I don't think either would give you very good performance if you used them as a fixed mounting (but I could be wrong).

If you look at the ones that are meant to be fixed bridges, they mount with 3 or so screws through the base plate under the saddles, and will sit down tight and flat. You only have to drill the through holes for the strings (remember to get some ferrules), the screw holes, and screw them down. You can still get either Fender style design. You can also get the Hipshot design, which is a more solid and polished version of the Fender American design. I liked that one best of the ones I have seen. StewMac has all of those designs. But I think you will pay less and end up happier with one of those designs than with a trem converted to fixed design.

As for the Hipshot, I can't give you a picture on a guitar, because the guitar isn't built yet. But if you just need a front picture, i'll link a picture that might help. Good luck.

http://home.comcast.net/~rlbcustoms/images/HSBridge.jpg

Ki swordsman · #11 10-16-2005, 10:49 PM

thanks for the pic and the really good advice

it's really making a lot more sense to me now and i think totally fixed will be the simpler and better option

CrossingStar · #12 10-17-2005, 11:41 AM

If you want to replace the lock nut with something try this Ebanol from Allparts

http://www.allparts.com/search.php

Part #BN_0623-023 (1-5/8"), Part # BN_0624-023 (1-11/16")

marianozz · #13 10-17-2005, 01:08 PM

I saw Paul Gilbert last month here, and hes got a PGM300 thats converted to a hardtail, and it has the locking nut, only the pads and bolts aint there...

Seemed like the most simple way to me... i dunno if theres any complications, but if its good enough for him....

Kontalonis · #14 10-17-2005, 06:20 PM

I saw Paul gilbert with that same guitar...........then i saw his high e go out of tune

sniperfrommars1 · #15 10-17-2005, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kontalonis

I saw Paul gilbert with that same guitar...........then i saw his high e go out of tune

That probably had more to do with the string stretching than the nut being an issue, Ive not personally had any issues with a guitar setup in that fashion, it should stay in tune as well as a regular bridge. Hell ive seen vai go out of tune too so whats your point? My suggestion to the original poster, is to simply block the tremolo on his jem, and call it a day, leaving the locking nut and fine tuners intact. The guitar will stay in tune better than pretty much anything on the market when setup in this fashion, even if its a trs which is on the 555. If you want to do alot of alternate tunings i would suggest just blocking the bridge with a wood block again, but instead remove the locking nut pads and install locking tuning keys. The best of both worlds and the guitar can still be returned to its original form.