I found the joys about five years ago about a GOOD fret dressing and what it can do for your guitar and for your playing. *I have decided to share my process with you. *This is not something you want to try on a guitar you can't live without. *If you are good with tools and patient, you should be able to do your main guitar after you try it once on an "expendable" axe.
This process takes a LOT of time but is very rewarding once you get it right. *In advance, I suggest reading books on guitar repair especially by Dan Erlewine. *He is great. *My method is derived from what he wrote.
First you need:
Masking Tape
A Bastard Mill File
A tapered 1/4" to 1/8"(or so) file
A 2' Straight Edge
Some Medium and Fine Sandpaper (auto finish works best)
Medium Steel Wool
Super Fine Steel Wool
Some kind of fretboard oil (if doing on ebony or
rosewood fingerboard guitars only, don't use on finished fingerboards)
Dremel tool (preferred but not absolutely needed)
Before you start with the guitar, you need to modify the files. *Use your Dremel to take the pointy edges off of the triangle file. *This is so you don't damage the fingerboard. *Although optional, I also used the Dremel to remove the handle from the mill file and grind away all sharp edges so I don't accidentally damage anything.
First you must prep the guitar. *I usually leave the neck on the guitar, but to start, sometimes it's easier to remove the neck. *If you leave it on the guitar, then put masking tape over the pickups so you don't get a bunch of junk on them like fret shavings or bits of steel wool.
Once the strings are off, adjust the truss rod so that the neck is perfectly straight. (use straight edge)
Here's where you use the Bastard Mill to go up and down the length of the neck and level all the frets. *Never go side to side, just up and down. *Start with the whole neck all the way up and down the move a little up on the frets, and then spot check with the straight edge to see if you need to concentrate on one area. *Don't apply too much pressure and use the straight edge often to ensure no high/low spots. *You can also use a shorter straight edge for this. *Be careful to maintain the same radius or you will have problems. *Once you are satisfied that the frets are as straight as the neck, then it's time to go fret to fret.
First you want to mask off the fingerboard area before and after each fret. *I do this one at a time as I move up the neck. *I use 2-3 pieces of masking tape over each other to make sure I don't damage the fingerboard. *You will probably be able to use this stack of tape for a few frets before you have to do it again.
Now you take the triangle file and re-shape the fret. *What you are trying to accomplish is a fret with a distinct crown that is right in it's center. *You need to do this without taking much material off the center or you will undo the leveling that you just did. *This is by far the hardest part and takes the most attention to detail and patience. *I use the file and roll it over the fret as I push it forward at a 15-30 degree angle or so, starting at one end of the fret and moving to the other. *The cut on the file is push only. *This part is not an exact science and it tough to judge. *You should plan on spending 2-3 minutes per fret your first go at this stage alone. *You have to be very carefull to hit the fingerboard as little as possibe as even though it is protected by the tape, it can still be damaged. *Pay extra, extra attention to this if you don't grind down the sharp edges of your triangle file.
I pay special attention to the fret ends as it is a pet peeve of mine. *They should be well tapered, but the taper should end with enough room left over to apply vibrato to the "E" strings without sending the string off the fret.
Now that your fret is level, you want it smooth as the glass on your monitor.
Start this process with the medium sandpaper. *Use it lenghtwise against the fret to remove any file marks. *Again, don't over concentrate on one area or you may lower the fret too much.
Now repeat the last step with the fine sandpaper. *Your goal here is to remove what is left of the file marks and the scoring from the medium paper.
Now you switch to the steel wool. *Starting with the medium, press hard and move fast upon the length of the fret to get rid of all the scratches from the previous abrasives.
By the time you get to the super fine steel wool, you are only polishing the fret. *Once you finish with it, you should have a very shiny fret that is very round. *You should not see any angles on the fret at all, just round. *The peak should be in the center of the fret.
If you have a rosewood or
ebony fingerboard, I have found the tape dehydrates it. *Use the oil (as directed on the bottle) on it to rehydrate the fingerboard. *I oil my rosewood fingerboards every other string change.
When you first string up and play your guitar, you will find a little bit of noise when you bend strings or use vibrato. *This is normal and will go away very quickly, say an hour's worth of play or so. *If it doesn't, then you might need to use the sandpaper/steel wool again.
You will not believe the difference this process makes until you have done it and played it. *My guess is a local luthier would charge $50-$200 dollars to do this. *If you don't think you can do it yourself and you still want it done, do not trust just any mom and pop music store's repair man. *Ask to look at and play examples. *Look for noise when bending and using vibrato and intomation as well as general playability.
If you are in a bind and you need a hand, email me at
hecull@home.com *Give me a day to respond please. *If you do try this, good luck!
Have fun and fix it yourself!
KO
