Ibanez, RG350DX, Edge III Bridge Angle

[Wild_Child]

Originally Posted by Technetium

What I colored in red?

I don't know if the edge III has a block like this on the side, otherwise Cosmic Debris is correct. In that case, just go with the angle of the baseplate and it will be accurate enough.

[Technetium]

Originally Posted by Wild_Child

I don't know if the edge III has a block like this on the side, otherwise Cosmic Debris is correct. In that case, just go with the angle of the baseplate and it will be accurate enough.

It doesn't have this thing on the side.
What is the "baseplate"?

[Wild_Child]

The plate that forms the base of the trem. The part that the saddles etc. go onto. i.e. you need to tighten the screws at the back just a little and retune until it is parallel with the body.

[mike570]

Originally Posted by Wild_Child

A guitar being in tune doesn't mean the bridge is level. It can be in tune with the bridge sticking a mile up in the air.

I wasn't talking about tuning the instrument; I meant the instrument's propensity to STAY in tune. After all, this is what you're doing by adjusting the trem angle. The wrong tension either way will make the instrument WANT to go sharp or flat to equalize. This is why so many hairs get pulled out over floating trems. "It looks right, but it's not staying in tune!!!! AAAARGH!!!!" LOL!

Originally Posted by Wild_Child

You tune first, then check the knife edge, compensate with the springs and tune again until it is dead level.

Exactly! My only addition to this is that a tuner is more accurate than your eyes. So much emphasis is put on how it should "look". It can "look" flat and still be out. Same goes for saddle intonation. In the end, they'll all "look" very much the same, but with all the subtle variations from one instrument to the next, they may not be *exact* clones down to the mm.

[Technetium]

The knife edge is all the space I colored in red, or just parts of it?
And if it's black, like on my bridge, then how am I supposed to know if it's perpendicular to the stud?

[Ibateur]

the knife edges are the two red areas on 2nd and 4th photos. They are connected to the rest of the trem (naturally) which would be the base plate.

So, if you compare the base plate to the body, you should be ok and you have good tension on the springs, you should be ok.

[nuno]

this is how the Edge-III should to be set:



with the upper side SLIGHTLY angled.

just consider that the baseplate is the knife itself, pretty much like the OFR and non-Ibanez Floyd licensed trems, so you want the baseplate (the underside of the trem) to be set parallel to the top and/or perpendicular to the posts. i know that the baseplate profile can't be seen when the trem is installed on the guitar, but just go by eye. you'll end setting it with the upper side just a bit less angled than a LoPro Edge's. hope this helps

[Mike239]

Originally Posted by Technetium

I own an Ibanez, RG350DX. It has an Edge III bridge, and I don't know what is the correct angle for this bridge. This is how it looks now:



I don't know whether it's right or wrong.

My mother tongue is Hebrew, and the combination of English and guitars just doesn't work for me. No one has ever taught me the names of the parts in English, so I know nothing. Some guy told me that the knife edge should be perpendicular to the stud, but I have no idea what are the knife edge and the stud. That guy also said once that Edge III bridges has a lack exposed knife edge, so that probably makes it harder for me to understand what exactly are those parts. If you guys can please try to explain it for me with pictures, then I'll be thankful. No one has ever taught me the names of the parts in English, but I really need the help.

The angle on your bridge looks fine to me

[Technetium]

Originally Posted by nuno

this is how the Edge-III should to be set:



with the upper side SLIGHTLY angled.

just consider that the baseplate is the knife itself, pretty much like the OFR and non-Ibanez Floyd licensed trems, so you want the baseplate (the underside of the trem) to be set parallel to the top and/or perpendicular to the posts. i know that the baseplate profile can't be seen when the trem is installed on the guitar, but just go by eye. you'll end setting it with the upper side just a bit less angled than a LoPro Edge's. hope this helps

Thank you very much! This is exactly what I needed.

[nuno]

...

[Technetium]

Look, this is the back of my guitar:



I think I ruined the screw I circled in red. It just doesn't screw out anymore. Now I'm in real trouble. What can I do?

[nuno]

you mean you stripped out the screw's head? these cases, i usually cut a slot for a screwdriver, with a Dremel. don't know if there's anything easier and faster.

[Ibateur]

Or use a pair of pointy pliers to very carefully remove the screw.

[Technetium]

Originally Posted by Ibateur

Or use a pair of pointy pliers to very carefully remove the screw.

That's actually a good idea.

Damn it, I can't unscrew it, and every time I try I end up having metal shavings on my screwdriver. I don't know if I can screw it, but I don't want to try, because if I can't unscrew, it will do no good.

[Ibateur]

It will probably help to remove tension from the screws.

Meaning... detune the guitar, remove the springs, and then use pliers to slowly twist the screw out of the wood.