Installing new neck - for my vwh

Jeroenn · #1 01-11-2002, 08:16 AM

Hi,
I just received my replacement Jem7vwh neck, and it's fresh out of the factory. It's perfectly new (and bleeding beautiful too, I might add).
So now I can install it on my VWH, however: none of the holes for the neckjoint are drilled. So I need to do that myself. *I want to make sure this goes perfect, so any advice on drillsizes, methodes etc are appriciated!
Thanks.

Texter · #2 01-11-2002, 09:25 AM

Hi Jeroenn, what the hell did you do? You got a replacement neck? So old grumpy Ed is wrong! That's a relief. Did you just order it? Or is it so expensive that it's one of the few necks Ibanez does supply? Don't know anything about drilling though, sorry. But I'm sure these guys here do...

Jeroenn · #3 01-11-2002, 09:40 AM

You can get a replacement neck. Thru your local Ibanez dealer. You need to supply the serialnumber of your Jem and a sh*tload of cash (it was about 1/4 of a new guitar, european prices that is). *I ordered it last summer, today it arrived. About 5 months later.
Once you got a replacement, there is no way to get another. If your Jem is still under waranty and you need a new neck, they wont send a replacement, instead you need to give the guitar up for repair (and then it will get replaced for you).

The replacement neck is the neck only. There are no holes drilled for the retainerbar, trussrod cover or AANJ. Other than that, it's a perfect replacement.

**jemsite** · #4 01-11-2002, 10:34 AM

I don't have sizes handy, but you must look at the screws, and select a bit about 1/2 the size... so as to not split the wood, but also not drilling out too much wood.

The most important part is not drilling too deep. measure the depth and mark the drill bit "depth" with tape wrapped around the bit. This way when you come to the "tape" you will stop drilling safely, knowing you didn't protrude thru the wood. The headstock is especially shallow and easy to drill thru.

For the neck joint, use a smaller pilot hole or punchmark if needed, to ensure the screw holes are not moved around when drilling begins. Good luck... glen

Jeroenn · #5 01-11-2002, 10:49 AM

Thank you Glen. That tape is a very good idea.
I suppose I'll drill the small screwholes for the trussrod cover and retainer bar with my Dremel.
Any thoughts on drilling speeds? I know all my drills have variable speeds.

**jemsite** · #6 01-11-2002, 10:54 AM

if you can control the drill, use a med-fast speed. If in doubt, drill a pilot hole for the next larger pilot hole. You want the drill to do the work.

With the retainer bar, apply masking tape over the PAINT, then mark/punch where the holes are to go before drilling. this will help keep the edges of hole neat and keep the paint from ripping or tearing off at the edges... glen

GhesQi J · #7 01-11-2002, 02:27 PM

Quote:

from jemsite, Posted on 9:54 am on Jan. 11, 2002
With the retainer bar, apply masking tape over the PAINT, then mark/punch where the holes are to go before drilling. this will help keep the edges of hole neat and keep the paint from ripping or tearing off at the edges... glen

Good advice from glen here.
Be carefull when using the dremel by free hand. Be sure to punch a hole (worth being a hole)

before drilling.
The dremel does wander of easily and leaves you with a noncircular hole. Especially when done free hand.

Good luck,
Joten

(Edited by GhesQi J at 1:28 pm on Jan. 11, 2002)

caprile · #8 01-11-2002, 02:37 PM

hey jeroenn, i'm curious, what happened to the original neck?

Jeroenn · #9 01-11-2002, 03:08 PM

The old neck sustained some damage due to poor (humid) storage from the previous owner, mostly to the inlay and inlay filler.

Jeroenn · #10 01-12-2002, 01:36 PM

Thanks all for the insight.
The new neck is installed, and it sits perfectly straight. *I took the screwdepth messurements from the old neck, used the tape trick for the drill and that works nice. Also the tape covering the paint on the headstock worked great, no paint is lost or damaged.
Now it's settling and adjusting to tention etc. Tomorow I will play the h*ll out of it

ripl3y · #11 01-12-2002, 02:47 PM

The way I do it is to attach the neck to the body (use a clamp and some spare cuts of wood to protect the back and front of the neck)

Ensure all looks lined up correctly (measure too) and then mark the centre positions with a hole punch (one that will fit through the holes in the body, if you can, attach the punch to a drill press.)

Take the neck off and then drill directly down (using a stop bit...don't use tape for your drill depth on something like a 7V, pay the £1 or so for a stop bit, which is basically a piece of circular metal you can screw onto the drill bit at your required depth), also drill it down 5mm or so less and also as mentioned a bit narrower than the screw itself, this ensures that you get a nice grip from the screw when you screw it in.
Personally I drill very slowly, you don't need the speed, drilling slowly ensures a nice consistent hole.
Also, work if you can with a drill that has a backout facility, i.e. you press a switch and the drill revolves backwards as you come out of the hole.
Make sure to use bits specifically made for wood drilling.
Just be patient.

All this may seem like overkill, but it's the best way to get a factory finish.

Steve

Jeroenn · #12 01-12-2002, 04:11 PM

I indeed drilled a bit less, and with a drill half the size of the screw.

That worked great, it only cost me all my powers to get the screws in tho.. :-)
(Which I did a couple of turns at a time, then unscrew, check take the neck of to see if I split it, back in, another couple of turns, unscrew, check etc. until they were all ready for the final twist).