JS 1200 restring and intonation - 2 questions

[Valhalla]

1. When you restring, do you put the string heads at the headstock or in the holders at the
bridge, and which one offers better tuning stability?

2. My Edge pro bridge is blocked with a Tremol-No. I'm not going to stretch the strings as
much as I would if the bridge were floating, but I still stretch them. Should I wait until
after they are stretched before I adjust the intonation, or should I do it prior? I'm going
from 10's back to 9's if it makes a difference

[nuno]

they say it's good to stretch before intonate. i think Rich does so, he may explain why it's better. i started doing so as i noticed stretched strings provide a more stable and even signal for the tuner to read the pitch.

as for the stringing method, i'm from the "string-ball at the peg" school. it surely provide better stability as you can't pull further when the ball rocks against the peg. it's almost a locking tuner. also, colored D'Addario string-balls look nice

[eruji]

1. Either position is fine, it will not effect stability in a double locking trem. Meaning if you lock the guitar at the nut and at the bridge, then it does not matter. I string my guitar with the ball ends at the neck because it takes fewer winds to get them up to tension and it doesnt leave any sharp string ends.

2. You should always stretch new strings, period! This will keep them from going out of tune, which would hinder you from playing/intonating.

[Valhalla]

Originally Posted by eruji

2. You should always stretch new strings, period! This will keep them from going out of tune, which would hinder you from playing/intonating.

The question I asked was: "Should I wait until after they are stretched before I adjust the intonation, or should I do it prior?"

[Rich]

Stretching thins the gauge. a .013 may end up a .01275 after full stretching. Intonation point depends on gauge and pitch. Of course you stretch first.

[eruji]

I thought my answer addressed that question..

let me clarify.. The first thing you should do when you put new strings on is stretch them out. So yes, you SHOULD stretch them before you intonate.

Why? isnt it obvious? Checking intonation is checking the tuning at multiple spots on your neck. How can you reliably check the tuning if the guitar is going out of tune. Stretching the strings out will help to speed up the process of a new string stretching and moving out of tune on its own.

Also if you are moving from 10 to 9's you will most likely have to adjust your trem angle which involves tightening or loosening your trem claw. In your case loosening the claw tension to make up for the thinner gauged strings.

[Rich]

Ball ends at the tuners makes for a positive lock when stretching and eliminates the sharp ends, which was the original reason I started doing it. The side benefit is it reduces the windings needed so it reduces unwanted string twist, especially on the unwound strings. The best feature is, it looks cool.

[Valhalla]

Originally Posted by Rich

Ball ends at the tuners makes for a positive lock when stretching and eliminates the sharp ends, which was the original reason I started doing it. The side benefit is it reduces the windings needed so it reduces unwanted string twist, especially on the unwound strings. The best feature is, it looks cool.

Yeah, I have got laid a bunch since doing it that way too. haha. How do you deal with the the string when trying to bend it around the post? The A and low E strings are quite thick and tough near the ball end.

[Valhalla]

Originally Posted by eruji

I thought my answer addressed that question..

let me clarify.. The first thing you should do when you put new strings on is stretch them out. So yes, you SHOULD stretch them before you intonate.

Why? isnt it obvious? Checking intonation is checking the tuning at multiple spots on your neck. How can you reliably check the tuning if the guitar is going out of tune. Stretching the strings out will help to speed up the process of a new string stretching and moving out of tune on its own.

Also if you are moving from 10 to 9's you will most likely have to adjust your trem angle which involves tightening or loosening your trem claw. In your case loosening the claw tension to make up for the thinner gauged strings.

Well, since the bridge is blocked securely and permanently with a Tremol-no, as I previously stated, then the tuning is going to be much more stable even without stretching, as the bridge is not floating. Thus, the answer is not so obvious. Also, there is no need to adjust the trem angle, as again, the bridge is not floating.

[70Seven]

Originally Posted by Valhalla

Well, since the bridge is blocked securely and permanently with a Tremol-no, as I previously stated, then the tuning is going to be much more stable even without stretching, as the bridge is not floating. Thus, the answer is not so obvious. Also, there is no need to adjust the trem angle, as again, the bridge is not floating.

Stretching strings is not just for floating bridge guitars, you don't need to stretch more on floating guitars, You stretch strings for every guitar that has strings, even if it has a tremol-no.

[moebius]

Originally Posted by Valhalla

Yeah, I have got laid a bunch since doing it that way too. haha. How do you deal with the the string when trying to bend it around the post? The A and low E strings are quite thick and tough near the ball end.

The E and A strings wrap around the post fine for me. Never had a problem with the twisted end. Just wind as normal. It is not as hard to wind them as you may think. And they do look cooler in my opinion. Particularly compared with guitars with a ton of string sticking out.

[Valhalla]

Originally Posted by 70Seven

Stretching strings is not just for floating bridge guitars, you don't need to stretch more on floating guitars, You stretch strings for every guitar that has strings, even if it has a tremol-no.

This concept I understand. I know I have to stretch the strings regardless of whether the bridge is blocked or not. This is not in question. I have owned both hardtail and floating bridge guitars, and the fact is, you do need to stretch the strings more with a floating bridge to maintain tuning stability. The simple act of playing the strings on a floating bridge guitar raises the bridge up and down, and thus you have to stretch the strings more than you would a hardtail. I'm not trying to be crass, but I am speaking from experience...