js100 body repaint

ApOsTle · #1 01-17-2007, 02:46 PM

ok.... i got this idea in my head of spryaing my 2001 (i think) js100 as black is a little boring and i want a little project to keep me occupied. this is what i hope to end up with :

All i really need to know is , can i use cellulose paints and laquers to paint the guitar. like the automotive spray paints you get in Halfords (for those in uk) or is there an easier or better type of paint to use?
plus any other advise on refinishing the body would be helfull as this will be my first guitar spray job . ( done lots of car stuff)

thx buds

BTW. its going to be a solid colour, not the photoshoped translucent type in the pic

Slash jr · #2 01-18-2007, 04:10 PM

The stuff halfords sell is Acrylic not cellulose, and a pretty good paint for a DIY respray.

Your absolute best bet would be to take it to a car bodyshop and get it sprayed in 2K primer and 2K colour. 2 Pack automotive paints will be a lot tougher and give a better finish (espicially covering fine wood grain, which you will find most rattle cans will soak into, reveling grain once dried) It shouldnt cost you much at all, Id guess £50 all in max if you do the initial prep yourself, probally more like £30. I work in a body shop and we get asked to spray non car stuff every now and then.

The problem with cellulose is its rubbery and reacts to other paints. Its pretty much been faded out now. All the stuff halfords sell is Acrylic and pretty good really, if not a little expensive.

Id suggest you go for a filler primer first, then a normal primer, then colour then lauqer. The extra step (being the filler primer) should minimilise visible grain in the finished product. There will be a fair bit of flatting to do though.

Dont buy halfords wet and dry, its crap. Get some from an average car spares place.

Good luck and post pics!

ApOsTle · #3 01-21-2007, 10:53 AM

cheers for the advice, now....is it REALLY necessary to completly strip the finish off or can i key the clear coat and primer over it etc..?

Slash jr · #4 01-21-2007, 02:50 PM

You can key the old finish sure

When it wears through tho your see the old colour thats all, same with scratches.

Also the new paint *may* react with the existing, causing crazing or pickeling. I think you should be ok tho, just dust the first few primer coats on real thin and let them dry well before any heavy coats.

ApOsTle · #5 01-21-2007, 04:38 PM

Excellent....i know a complete strip would be the 'proper' way of doin it but being a js with no flat areas would be a nightmare, take an age and probably look a completly different shape by the time it's stripped.
I think i'll just give it a real good rub down and go over the existin finish.
Thx man...ill post pics when i get underway

Slash jr · #6 01-21-2007, 05:53 PM

Use white primer (not grey)

Id start keying with 800 grit, prime a couple of dust coats leaving to dry for at least 3 hours inbetween, flat with 1000 grit, couple of moderate coats of primer again, flat 1000 grit then color.
Id go for 4+ coats of colour, flating every other or so. Dont key the last colour coat. Allow to dry for 3 hours between coats. Allow to dry overnight (24 hours would be better) before changing to laquer.
Laquer as many coats as you can! flat the laquer when it starts looking orange peeley, probally flat one out of every 3 coats.

Once your finished leave it to dry for a good couple of days. Very lightly flat the finished article with 1500+ then T-cut or G3 it. After 2 weeks car wax it. Dont wax it for at least 2 weeks to allow the paint to 'breathe' and dry out propley. During the 2 weeks the paint will be quite delicate so go easy with the shreading! After its waxed it should be quite hardy.

Sorry if im teaching you to suck eggs dude, its easier to just write the hole lot down in one go