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Tech: Setup, Repairs and Mods Guitar workbench discussion such as setup, repairs, mods, installing new parts and more.

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  #16  
Old 02-08-2010, 01:37 PM
gtorob  is offline
 
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Re: JS100 stripping, is it veneer?


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Originally Posted by stratoskier View Post
Not to put you into a lurch regarding my previous advice, but... I trust Frank Falbo a great deal and have followed his advice in the past with success. So you might want to try his method first. I've used super glue for very small scratches and dings, but I wasn't sure how deep your cracks went. Frank -- sounds like you don't think he needs to widen the cracks and, if thinned, the super glue will get as deep as necessary, is that correct? I'd still recommend the epoxy stuff for the big wound by the trem, though.

As far as the studs, in your other thread, a poster recommended gluing in a dowel and redrilling. That's a good suggestion -- I've done it both ways: epoxy only then redrill, vs. dowel epoxied in and then redrill. Both have worked well, but with the dowel seated in epoxy there's less chance of leaving a void in the hole that might lead to trouble later.

I did not see dowels in my local home depot where else can I get them?
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  #17  
Old 02-08-2010, 03:17 PM
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Re: JS100 stripping, is it veneer?


I get them from lumber stores. They usually come in lots of different sizes, from 1/8" up to 1" diameter. Also come in various kinds of wood -- for this application, I'd pick a hardwood of some type. Pick a size larger than the eventual stud hole size so you can overdrill the dowel hole and have some wood left for the smaller hole that is right for your studs. Oh yeah, don't go so big that you're bumping into the tremelo route or risk a break-out in the area -- just slightly bigger than your stud hole.
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  #18  
Old 02-08-2010, 03:39 PM
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Re: JS100 stripping, is it veneer?


You can get all sorts of different types -- I would lean towards maple for this application. Since you'll be drilling into the end grain of the dowel, using a harder wood will make for a more durable repair.

And, very importantly, use a drill press. You want exactitude when making these repairs. A drill press makes that a lot easier.
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  #19  
Old 02-08-2010, 04:25 PM
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Re: JS100 stripping, is it veneer?


Quote:
Originally Posted by stratoskier View Post
I've used super glue for very small scratches and dings, but I wasn't sure how deep your cracks went. Frank -- sounds like you don't think he needs to widen the cracks and, if thinned, the super glue will get as deep as necessary, is that correct? I'd still recommend the epoxy stuff for the big wound by the trem, though.
The thinnest grades of superglue will soak into EVERYWHERE. They'll seep into the pores of the basswood, and eventually fill up the crack. You don't thin the glue, you just buy the thin grade. Its thinner than water and has less surface tension. It's as much about soaking into the pores and hardening the surrounding wood as it is filling the crack.

For the trem studs I would pull the anchor, and soak that entire area down. No real need to use anything else to fill that crack, other than if you can't get the thin superglue to stay in the crack (if it just leaks out and won't dry in there)

I often soak trem anchor holes in basswood simply because it's so soft. I soak it, then redrill just to make sure the diameter is consistent, and then drive the anchor back in place.
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  #20  
Old 02-08-2010, 07:54 PM
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Re: JS100 stripping, is it veneer?


Quote:
Originally Posted by frankfalbo View Post
The thinnest grades of superglue will soak into EVERYWHERE. They'll seep into the pores of the basswood, and eventually fill up the crack. You don't thin the glue, you just buy the thin grade. Its thinner than water and has less surface tension. It's as much about soaking into the pores and hardening the surrounding wood as it is filling the crack.

For the trem studs I would pull the anchor, and soak that entire area down. No real need to use anything else to fill that crack, other than if you can't get the thin superglue to stay in the crack (if it just leaks out and won't dry in there)

I often soak trem anchor holes in basswood simply because it's so soft. I soak it, then redrill just to make sure the diameter is consistent, and then drive the anchor back in place.

So you fill the tremolo hole with superglue and let it dry and then drill it for the anchor? Do you use the thin version for the Tremolo anchor hole?

What brands of superglue have a thin version?

thanks!
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  #21  
Old 02-09-2010, 08:14 AM
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Re: JS100 stripping, is it veneer?


Quote:
Originally Posted by frankfalbo View Post
The thinnest grades of superglue will soak into EVERYWHERE. They'll seep into the pores of the basswood, and eventually fill up the crack. You don't thin the glue, you just buy the thin grade. Its thinner than water and has less surface tension. It's as much about soaking into the pores and hardening the surrounding wood as it is filling the crack.

For the trem studs I would pull the anchor, and soak that entire area down. No real need to use anything else to fill that crack, other than if you can't get the thin superglue to stay in the crack (if it just leaks out and won't dry in there)

I often soak trem anchor holes in basswood simply because it's so soft. I soak it, then redrill just to make sure the diameter is consistent, and then drive the anchor back in place.
Here is a store near me in Toronto with different wood glues but nothing listed with different thinness. http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...=1,110&p=42965

What do you think Frank?
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  #22  
Old 02-09-2010, 08:22 AM
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Re: JS100 stripping, is it veneer?


Quote:
Originally Posted by frankfalbo View Post
The thinnest grades of superglue will soak into EVERYWHERE. They'll seep into the pores of the basswood, and eventually fill up the crack. You don't thin the glue, you just buy the thin grade. Its thinner than water and has less surface tension. It's as much about soaking into the pores and hardening the surrounding wood as it is filling the crack.

For the trem studs I would pull the anchor, and soak that entire area down. No real need to use anything else to fill that crack, other than if you can't get the thin superglue to stay in the crack (if it just leaks out and won't dry in there)

I often soak trem anchor holes in basswood simply because it's so soft. I soak it, then redrill just to make sure the diameter is consistent, and then drive the anchor back in place.

I don't have this in my area: http://www.stewmac.com/shopby/product/0010
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  #23  
Old 02-09-2010, 01:01 PM
Philboski  is offline
 
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Re: JS100 stripping, is it veneer?


You can go to the local Canadian tire -- they will have numerous different types of super glue in their glue section -- from fairly thin to a gel. They'll also have dowel if you go that route.

If you want to go witht he stuff from StewMac, they do ship to Canada.....

Last edited by Philboski; 02-09-2010 at 02:38 PM. Reason: Adding in the info about Stewmac
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  #24  
Old 02-19-2010, 03:53 PM
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Re: JS100 stripping, is it veneer?


I have it all stripped now but have a few gouges from the scraper, what is the best filler to use before priming it ???
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