Lo-Pro Edge looking from the back - And two more questions .

[Zann]

Hey folks,

Got some questions for ya. First of all, is there a picture of a correctly setup (action-wise) guitar looking from the back at low angle (similar to http://www.jemsite.com/usa/gallery/u.../usrg10_12.jpg) but with Lo-Pro Edge ??? I realize that "correct" action is something very subjective, but I'm new to Floyd's world and would rather be on the safe side and compare my setup with a known to be good

Secondly, - pressure pads of the locking nut: are they symmetrical ??? I mean, is there a preferable side to put towards, say, strings ???

Thirdly - I'm into trying all different brands of strings these days, and I've noticed, that even if you go with the same gauge, overall tension is still little different. Does it make any sense to re-adjust trem's angle, if it's off perfect just a very slightly little (but noticeable) bit ???

Thanks,
-Z.

EDIT- repaired link

(Edited by Kevan at 11:52 am on Jan. 7, 2002)

[Kevan]

1. *I think these are the pics you're looking for: *CLICK HERE. *
Don't forget the set screw INSIDE the trem post!
I have my trems setup lower than the ones pictured here, and I've seen folks with higher bridge heights. *Lowering it will give you more 'down', but less 'up' when using the trem. *Raising it will give you less 'down' and more 'up'. *The Edge and LoPro, along with the routing of the guitar body, were originally designed to allow for the raising of a note a full 5th (from A to E). *As low as my trems are, I can still go a 4th, without blowing strings.

2. *As far as the nut goes, I've seen folks do them both ways (mounted 'front/back' and mounted 'left/right').
CLICK HERE for a diagram. *
That's how I have all mine setup, and I think most others do as well. *Also, I keep the Low E, the D-G and the High E ones in the same slot each time I change strings. *Swapping them could lead to slippage over time- The Low E pads would have a larger diameter 'grip' than the High E one.

3. *Adjustment of the trem, even if it's slight, is worth it (to me) if the playability suffers. *I've been using DR's for years, so all of my guitars are setup for their tension/feel. *My advice would be to find a set that feels REALLY good, then setup the guitar to your liking.

Following the guidelines here in the TECH SECTION will get you headed in the right direction. *You can then tweak the trem (and the rest of the guitar) to your personal liking.

I've played, hard, every trem on the market. *I find the LoPro (and Edge) to be the best tremolo available. *The Parker and Wilkinson come in a distant 2nd. *Welcome to the world of trems! *You've picked a great place to start. *:-)

[JESTER700]

About the nut locks-
look at the underside. *They will have a contour that matches the curve in the locking nut. *Use that as your guide. *I think all the Ibanez ones I've seen are "vertical", like Kevan's diagram shows. *But clamps from other manufacturers may fit and be aligned "horizontally". *Check to be sure.

[Rich]

All 87' Jems have nut pads that allign in a row. All models after that allign accross the nut.

[Zann]

Thanks guys. Kevan, I've seen those pictures and that's why I started to worry about my trem Those trems on the pictures look rather parallel to the body in the direction perpendicular to the strings. Mine doesn't, it looks more like


* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Trem
* * * * -------- ______
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *-------- ______
Low E * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * ------- ______ * High E

* * * * ======================================
* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *Body


if you look from the back at low angle. The picture is crude, but you get the idea.

As for the pads, I was more wondering if there is any difference between "front" and "back" in the 'front/back' config - how can I tell which is which, if that matters at all ???

[Rich]

The action is higher on the Low side for obvious reasons, your trem should look like that.

[Kevan]

Zann- yes, you can have a little bit of an angle on your trem. *I'll expound on what Rich said....
This is due to your Low E and High E being different thicknesses. *The angle shouldn't be more than a few degrees, but the difference should be visible to the naked eye. *Not as harsh as the text-picture shows, but still a slight angle is proper.

Unlike standard old-school bridges, where each individual string is adjustable, the trem has one big "plate" that can be tilted a little to provide the proper height for low and high strings, respectively.

If you're having problems with the pads on the locking nut, it's best to replace them and start anew (they're pretty cheap to replace). *If you want to keep the current ones, look closely underneath the pad to determine which one is the "wide string" one, and go down from there. * If there are crossing patterns underneath, replace them, and install them as per the diagram above.

[yurich]

the angle of my floyd, looking from the back, is reverse - higher on the high E side and lower at the low E side. Is that alright? that was the only way I could set it up in order for both the high and low Es to have same action

[Jeroenn]

Snakepit, if you got the same action at low E and High e, and your floyd is tilted to the low side, then I suppose there is something not really right there. If you look further down the neck, is it parallel with the trem?

[yurich]

the neck seems fine...can't really tell by looking at it, but I checked with a ruler; it's straight to the body. BTW, this is an ESP Licensed Floyd, not an Edge

[Jeroenn]

Could be the shape of the body playing tricks with your eyes?

[yurich]

the body has an arch on top, and maybe it's just me, but it seems a bit steeper on the low E side...but I could be wrong. Might also have to do with the hi E saddle being up front and the lo E way back

[yurich]

...right?