Maple Neck Care - Satin Gun Oil Finish - Page 2

nsabino · #16 08-11-2009, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ayrton

Unless the original finish is gone, I would not mess with the fingerboard except to clean in. The inlays are synthetic, and you can polish them out like any other plastic.

Read the sticky about maple board cleaning, and hit me with questions.

Hi Ayrton, well it's an 18 year old axe and not all but some of the finish is gone.. what's your tips man, I've read the sticky.. what would you recommend I use for polishing the inlays?

thanks alot,
Regards,
Nelson

**Ayrton** · #17 08-11-2009, 08:00 PM

Here are some general tips, but each neck is going to be different.

I use a combination of steel wool, sandpaper and a razor blade to clean dirty maple. What you will need exactly, and how much really depends on the neck.

I don't know how much experience you have with something like this, but start with the steel wool. ONLY move in the direction of the grain when using sand paper or the razor.

Be careful using sandpaper with rougher grit than say 320. Also be mindful of the inlays.

You will various grits of paper (220,320,400,600,800)

Your goal is to get the neck as clean as you can, and then use finer and finer grits of paper to polish out the inlays (you can sand the surrounding wood as well).

Once you are happy with the neck, then you can apply the Tru Oil. I use a Q tip when working a maple board that has frets installed. I don't like to get the oil on the frets (only to have to scrape it off later).

Apply a coat of oil to each fret and let it dry for an hour or two. Dry enough is when it is dry to the touch. You can scuff up the previous coat with some steel wool (0000), but just knock off the shine.

Keep adding coats until you are happy. I tend to go 4-5 on the board, and 2-3 on the back of the neck.

Below is a thread where I did the back of a Washburn neck.

(I thought I had posted this thread here, but I guess not.)

http://www.seymourduncan.com/forum/s...d.php?t=157169

nsabino · #18 08-11-2009, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ayrton

Here are some general tips, but each neck is going to be different.

I use a combination of steel wool, sandpaper and a razor blade to clean dirty maple. What you will need exactly, and how much really depends on the neck.

I don't know how much experience you have with something like this, but start with the steel wool. ONLY move in the direction of the grain when using sand paper or the razor.

Be careful using sandpaper with rougher grit than say 320. Also be mindful of the inlays.

You will various grits of paper (220,320,400,600,800)

Your goal is to get the neck as clean as you can, and then use finer and finer grits of paper to polish out the inlays (you can sand the surrounding wood as well).

Once you are happy with the neck, then you can apply the Tru Oil. I use a Q tip when working a maple board that has frets installed. I don't like to get the oil on the frets (only to have to scrape it off later).

Apply a coat of oil to each fret and let it dry for an hour or two. Dry enough is when it is dry to the touch. You can scuff up the previous coat with some steel wool (0000), but just knock off the shine.

Keep adding coats until you are happy. I tend to go 4-5 on the board, and 2-3 on the back of the neck.

Below is a thread where I did the back of a Washburn neck.

(I thought I had posted this thread here, but I guess not.)

http://www.seymourduncan.com/forum/s...d.php?t=157169

Thanks alot buddy, I'm more or less like you, handy with tools and a reader then I become a DIY. Usually the jobs I tackle come out pretty decent but I need to know facts beforehand. Thanks for your info, now I need to wait for the oil before the string change...

regards,
Nelson

**Ayrton** · #19 08-12-2009, 02:42 AM

Nelson,

Feel free to hit me up if you have questions, or get in a jam.

One very nice thing about Tru Oil, is it is damn near idiot proof to apply.

nsabino · #20 08-12-2009, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ayrton

Nelson,

Feel free to hit me up if you have questions, or get in a jam.

One very nice thing about Tru Oil, is it is damn near idiot proof to apply.

Sure thing Ayrton, thanks alot for your help.

Regards,
Nelson

Sickbean · #21 08-12-2009, 02:41 PM

Right I think I'll give the 0000 wire wool/ Tru Oil combo a go then.

Shame, cause I quite like the streaky look of a dirty maple board, but it's starting to gunk up and hinder playing now

**Ayrton** · #22 08-13-2009, 01:19 AM

Keep in mind, any dirt/stains that are there when you apply the oil, will always be there.

Make sure you are happy with how it looks before adding Tru Oil.

PaoloOrtega · #23 11-08-2010, 10:53 AM

hey guys i really want to try this kind of finish is it a good idea to put on my ibanez S it has a maple neck and i really want a thin coat just to give me that nice satin finish feel. thx....

AlaskaBat · #24 11-08-2010, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaoloOrtega

hey guys i really want to try this kind of finish is it a good idea to put on my ibanez S it has a maple neck and i really want a thin coat just to give me that nice satin finish feel. thx....

Kumosta ka, Paolo?
Yes, this will work with any neck/fretboard. As Aryton said, make sure to clean the fretboard before applying the oil. I always use an old electric toothbrush to clean mine. As for polishing the frets afterwards, I use jewelers polish applied with a Dremel and jewelers buffer bit.

PaoloOrtega · #25 11-09-2010, 04:51 AM

haha its Kamusta and im okay thank you.. thank you so much for your reply i will try it as soon as i get my hands on some tru-oil i will probably go to a gunshop or sporting goods store either this week or the next ill let you know what happens again thank you.

PaoloOrtega · #26 11-17-2010, 06:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sickbean

Right I think I'll give the 0000 wire wool/ Tru Oil combo a go then.

Shame, cause I quite like the streaky look of a dirty maple board, but it's starting to gunk up and hinder playing now

how do i know that i haven't steel wooled the tru oil

**Ayrton** · #27 11-17-2010, 02:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PaoloOrtega

how do i know that i haven't steel wooled the tru oil

Tru Oil when it dries is quite shiny, so the wool knocks off the shine to accept another coat.

Just a few light passes is all you need with the steel wool.

PaoloOrtega · #28 11-24-2010, 10:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ayrton

Tru Oil when it dries is quite shiny, so the wool knocks off the shine to accept another coat.

Just a few light passes is all you need with the steel wool.

alright thanks man i put the finished it already i put 4 coats and buffed with steel wool really nice finish although when i go from a cold room to a warmer room the neck tends to get moist do you have any tips for that.