Need advice for fretting! Is this how you do it?

[C.Thep]

So pretty much what I'm going to do now is:

1. Sand the preslotted fretboard to radius
2. bend the fret wire to radius
3. cut fret wire
4. press the frets in (with a fret caul and drill press)
5. Snip the fret ends
6. Plane the top of the frets level
7. make the fret ends pretty
8. make the entire frets pretty and polished

Is that how it works?

[frankfalbo]

Hmm, as long as you realize that there are about 10 microsteps between each of your steps, all I can say is that you have them in the right order. If you don't have an automatic fret radius machine, then you can cut first, then bend. Also you didn't include using glue to lock the frets in place, crowning the fret tops, and some other things. So have fun, because it's likely that anyone asking these types of questions will not achieve perfection this time around. So at least have fun learning as you go.

[satchboogeyman]

I have never done it neither C but I am planning on trying. I have an old neck thats going to be my guinea pig. I suggest you pick up an old cheapo neck and do the same. I have been checking out the project guitar forums for info.

[C.Thep]

I know, but I hate spending money on crap, even if it is for my own good. I don't have much free time to do it. i probably shouldn't even try!

[David McCarroll]

Originally Posted by C.Thep

So pretty much what I'm going to do now is:

1. Sand the preslotted fretboard to radius
2. bend the fret wire to radius
3. cut fret wire
4. press the frets in (with a fret caul and drill press)
5. Snip the fret ends
6. Plane the top of the frets level
7. make the fret ends pretty
8. make the entire frets pretty and polished

Is that how it works?

Well, broadly, yeah, but I agree with Frank, you have missed the odd fifty or so microsteps in and around these major items - I believe Stewart Macdonald have an entire book and/or video/DVD dedicated to doing fret jobs, so you may want to invest in that prior to embarking upon refretting an Ebony 'board VWH (removing the existing frets is an art in it's own right BTW!)....... StewMac also sell a few specialised tools which would help you enormously, although if you plan on doing only one refret, the tooling cost would probably be more than a professional refret.

[slugman]

I don't glue the frets in unless they won't stay otherwise. The tang should keep them in if the fret slots aren't too wide. Also, I cut the frets to size, then bend the frets more than I have to, place them in the center of the slot, then hammer them in, going from the center out.

You can practice fretting on any reasonably sized piece of scrap. Don't need a neck.

[guitvai1]

I've fretted a neck once before and although I thought I knew what I was doing it turned out pretty rough. I just called a guitar repair shop close by and they will fret the neck as well as dress up the frets all for $150. To me that's worth it to get a professional job and not have to spend money buying tools, and spending hours trying to get it right with trial and error.

[slugman]

Guitvai1's logic maybe makes sense if you're only doing one neck. The sanding block, hammer, file, and wire cutters aren't really all that expensive though, and if you're doing multiple necks suddenly the repair shop option really sucks.

My favorite advice regarding fret leveling was someone who said to get the neck as straight as possible, then use a sharpie on the top of the frets. Once you start sanding with a block you can see if there are any uneven spots. In this way I made even one really awfully uneven neck playable.

[C.Thep]

Originally Posted by slugman

Guitvai1's logic maybe makes sense if you're only doing one neck. The sanding block, hammer, file, and wire cutters aren't really all that expensive though, and if you're doing multiple necks suddenly the repair shop option really sucks.

My favorite advice regarding fret leveling was someone who said to get the neck as straight as possible, then use a sharpie on the top of the frets. Once you start sanding with a block you can see if there are any uneven spots. In this way I made even one really awfully uneven neck playable.

Thanks, That sharpie trick sounds like it would work.

I think I'm going to try my first neck without a radius. That should make it a hell of alot easier. I'm also going to make it a baritone neck, so there is more room between the frets, that might make it a little easier too.

[ryanb]

Originally Posted by C.Thep

Thanks, That sharpie trick sounds like it would work.

Yeah. The Sharpie thing is pretty much essential.

Originally Posted by C.Thep

I think I'm going to try my first neck without a radius. That should make it a hell of alot easier. I'm also going to make it a baritone neck, so there is more room between the frets, that might make it a little easier too.

Actually, I don't think that either one of those things is going to make the job any easier, but make it however you want it.

You can spend a small fortune on fret work tools, but you can also get by quite inexpensively if need be. It all depends on your preference, patience level, and how much you are willing to spend on convenience (based on how much fret work you plan to do). The best thing you can do is to read/watch everything you can find. There is a lot of information on the Web. Things like the StewMac book/DVDs are well worth the price IMO.

I agree that for practicing, you don't really even need a neck. Cut a board out the right shape, slot it, and practice away.

Have fun with it.

[David McCarroll]

Originally Posted by C.Thep

Thanks, That sharpie trick sounds like it would work.

I think I'm going to try my first neck without a radius. That should make it a hell of alot easier. I'm also going to make it a baritone neck, so there is more room between the frets, that might make it a little easier too.

Ummmm, nah, you have to slightly over radius the frets regardless of whether the fingerboard is flat or radiussed(?), reason being that if the fret is under-radiussed there is a very high chance of the fret ends "springing" - for which the only cure is to pull the fret out, throw it away and re do it.

The distance between the frets doesn't really make much difference, and while I like that trick with a sharpie, the idea is to level the frets completely with a 12" mill file (running along the fingerboard - a new mill file is very sharp, so you don't need much pressure - cutting the tang off the file helps avoid accidental bumps) - because the file covers almost all the frets in each pass they should all be at the same height when you are done. One thing you absolutely can't do without is a fret file - I don't think there is any other way of crowning the frets.

The glue/no glue theory gets votes for either side of the fence, however I don't know any luthier who doesn't glue the frets down with slightly diluted Titebond, there is no downside to glueing the frets down - and at least you won't have the frustration of frets that won't stay down!

[ryanb]

The fret crowning file is one of the easiest tools to do without. Many, many luthiers do just fine with (and prefer using) a simple triangular file for fret crowning. You can pick one up at any hardware store for a few bucks and belt-sand the corners smooth. It does take more skill and patience, but it works very well.

I agree that the glue issue has its supporters on both sides. In the case of a NEW fretboard, as long as the fret slots are properly matched to the fret tangs, there is absolutely no need for glue to keep the frets in place. Refrets are more problematic due to the "damage" to the slots. Using glue (depending on type) sometimes makes life more complicated -- particularly for someone down the road doing a refret. There definitely are times that glue should be used, but personally I wouldn't use it without a reason.

[David McCarroll]

Originally Posted by ryanb

The fret crowning file is one of the easiest tools to do without. Many, many luthiers do just fine with (and prefer using) a simple triangular file for fret crowning. You can pick one up at any hardware store for a few bucks and belt-sand the corners smooth. It does take more skill and patience, but it works very well.

Hmmmm - I never tried that, we always used the concave faced fret files from Ibanez or StewMac.

[slugman]

No fret file here either. Just a file. I like the tip about sanding a triangular file down on the corners. The trouble with a regular file is, if you slip, you leave a mark on the fretboard I am just extra careful.

The stewmac files are like $40! and then you need a different set for different sized frets. Bleh.

[C.Thep]

Alot of the stuff at stew mac is rediculously overpriced