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Tech: Setup, Repairs and Mods Guitar workbench discussion such as setup, repairs, mods, installing new parts and more.

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  #31  
Old 02-27-2003, 04:06 AM
Rich  is offline
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I think you can edit all those out now

What guage did you put on?
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  #32  
Old 02-27-2003, 04:17 AM
drkillpatient21  is offline
 
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10's
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  #33  
Old 02-27-2003, 04:20 AM
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Well, you took off 9's.

Screw the claw all the way in, you might get lucky. I always add a 4th spring for 10's.
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  #34  
Old 02-27-2003, 04:29 AM
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well when i took it to go get it set up originally, i told him to go from 9's to 10's. i cant honestly say how deep the screws were actually in the body before i took off the old springs because i just took off the back plate after i noticed the bridge angle was slanted. my question is, can the screws actually come out that much just because i took off the old strings? cause they felt pretty damn secure when i tried screwing it in even more.
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  #35  
Old 02-27-2003, 04:32 AM
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The screws do not move by themselves
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  #36  
Old 02-27-2003, 05:59 PM
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What Rich is going to tell you next is this, the 10's having more tension is what's pulling your bridge up, it's not that the screws have "come out", on the contrary, where they are now is most likely farther in than they were when the 9's were on there.

I don't know if screwing the claw in farther is going to give you proper angle and, as Rich said, you will most likely have to put a forth spring on there.

You'll be able to get the proper angle, and personally I think 4 gives you a better balance and feel when using 10's since everything feels a little "stiffer", and that's what you would be going for putting on heavier strings, correct?

Mic
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  #37  
Old 02-27-2003, 06:09 PM
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Players usually go to 10's for tone, but when you bend 10's with 3 springs the open strings will drop alot more in pitch than they will with 4 springs [or 9's will with 3 springhs] which is one of the reasons I always throw on another spring. The 10's will feel "softer" with 3 springs, but it comes at a price.
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  #38  
Old 02-27-2003, 08:29 PM
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Uh, yeah, that too. :P

I've been thinking with my hands so much lately I forgot about my ears.

I should have said, "Stiffer feel is something you expect with heavier strings, no?"

Mic
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  #39  
Old 02-28-2003, 03:32 AM
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i purchased another spring earlier today, does it matter in which of the 2 empty spots it goes in? and what about the bridge saddle? no one esplained that to me.
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  #40  
Old 03-01-2003, 11:14 PM
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well ive decided im probably gonna sell it. i dont have the patience for this. maybe sometime in the future i will have it but not right now.
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  #41  
Old 03-02-2003, 01:48 PM
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Your nick fits you well.

Use the 2 outer holes on the block, and tabs on the claw.
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  #42  
Old 03-07-2003, 06:05 AM
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ok guys i went back to 9's. now the trem is in too deep into the body and i dont know whats the precedure for aligning it. i know your supposed to loosen the screw claws in the back, but they're pretty far out right now and the trem moved very little.
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  #43  
Old 03-07-2003, 11:01 AM
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http://www.ibanezrules.com/tech.htm#Trem_Angle
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  #44  
Old 03-07-2003, 01:18 PM
frankfalbo  is offline
 
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By the way, there's no way your A string saddle should be all the way forward. It must have slipped. Without doing a complete setup, it should be located somewhere between the E and D. Put it back there and retighten the bolt. Then check the tightness of the others.
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  #45  
Old 03-07-2003, 01:23 PM
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Every saddle is out of whack, except "maybe" the high E.
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bridge angle, cavity cover, claw screws, edge trem, edge trems, floating bridges, hoshino usa, ibanez guitars, playing guitar, reverse headstock, string saddle, tuning pegs


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