problem with my stud inserts!Help

jemke · #1 11-18-2002, 03:44 PM

Today I removed the bridge of my jem and I saw that my stud insert
at the high E side was pulled out for about 0,5cm (? 1/5 inch?).
I noticed it because I could't get the action as low as I wanted.

I pushed it back so it is ok now.

My question. Are the stud inserts normaly fixed with some glue so the won't move? Is there any danger this will happen again but now during playing so my bridge can be damaged?

http://jemsite.com/tech/img/t_edg.jpg here you can see what the stud insert is...

**jemsite** · #2 11-18-2002, 03:47 PM

these are glued in to allow a stable mount to the body. There is alot of discussion here about re-gluing them w/ wood glue or a similar product.

the body mounts should not be loos or movable... glen

Rich · #3 11-18-2002, 04:14 PM

Actually they aren't glued in but just pressed in at the factory. As the wood shrinks they can become loose. Pull it out and dab a little 5 minite epoxy around the inside of the hole, then press it back in. Not too much epoxy, just enough to get some grip in there.

jemke · #4 11-19-2002, 05:34 AM

It is not that it was falling out. To push it back, I had to use some force so it has enough grip I suppose.

I pushed my trem back and forewards very hard to test the trem. It didn' t move.

Rich · #5 11-19-2002, 01:15 PM

It worked it's way out once, there's no reason to think it's not going to do it again.

Kevan · #6 11-19-2002, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rich

As the wood shrinks they can become loose.

If wood is shrinking, wouldn't the stud/bushing be gripped *tighter*? :-)

Avoid epoxy in this case. It's far too brittle. Use wood glue (Titebond, if you can get it).

Rich · #7 11-19-2002, 04:44 PM

Of course they're getting tighter, that's why so many become loose

Stick with the epoxy if you want a permanent fix.

GhesQi J · #8 11-19-2002, 05:12 PM

Every wood has it's own life, it shrinks, expands,... So if not glued, the studs can come loose.
Fixing with epoxy glue is the best option here.

Cheers,
Joten

Kevan · #9 11-19-2002, 05:29 PM

Using epoxy will certainly hold it in there, until the next time the wood "moves", then the epoxy cracks, and your stud is loose once again.
If the epoxy doesn't crack and remains solid around the stud, the next time the wood "moves", the epoxy will aid in oval-ing out the stud holes causing further damage.

Stick with the wood glue. It's 10x more flexible, and with the minute amount you'll be using, it'll hold just as well as the epoxy.

Rich · #10 11-19-2002, 05:32 PM

**cough**bull******cough**

**jemsite** · #11 11-19-2002, 05:35 PM

the wood grain is tightening, making the opening larger.

since the stud anchor inserts are metal and pressure cannot be applied during the curing process, i would not use a wood glue either. Wood glue is not useful for filling in gaps and spaces IMHO... its more for laminating two pieces of wood with tight clamping.

If you hesitate to use epoxy (i have no trouble working with it and it's as strong as fiberglass) then use a non-epoxy all-purpose adhesive (ProBond polyeurothane glue for example) that is stronger than wood-glue. Your mileage will vary... glen

Kevan · #12 11-19-2002, 05:49 PM

Use whatever you want, Rich. Just don't get any epoxy near any of my guitars. :-)

If you're not hot on wood glue (which will have sufficient pressure in this case), find a non-epoxy, non-hardening substitute like what Glen suggested. There are dozens of different glues out there. Your local hardware store should have a decent selection. If not, check StewMac; they have a bunch.

Sometimes I mix CA in with the wood glue...gives it some extra quick bite. Works like a champ (the CA dries very quickly; the wood glue takes longer to set). The studs in the JEM77FP-DN are set this way. They're not goin' ANYWHERE. :-)

Glen- you can edit posts and not get the time/date stamp? Can we all do that now?

**jemsite** · #13 11-19-2002, 05:51 PM

the edit mark appears unless you've edited the last post in the thread (ie. noone has posted after you)

Project Guitar · #14 11-19-2002, 11:30 PM

Since you didn't notice this until you removed the trem chances are it and the string tension were holding it down in the first place. It really shouldn't be that big of a problem unless of course you can spin it in the cavity.

Personally I'd just dab a little titebond II on a Q-tip and swab the area inside the hole if you think the anchor is going to travel. Press it back down and wipe the excess off with a moist towel, no mess and easy to do.

You can as suggested above use 5 minute epoxy it would work, then again I doubt may people weld the lug nuts to their car.........a bit over kill if you ask me cause if that anchor ever strips out or the trem post breaks off at the bottom inside it your asking for more than just an easy replacement.

I guess what I'm trying to say here is Epoxy will bond with both the metal and the wood making it impossible to replace that anchor if anything should happen to it without a major operation. Wood glue will hold it in place but is also weak enough to let go of the metal if you ever really needed to pull it back out.........

In the end it's really your choice, both will work and many debates have been done in this same topic with the loser going to the guy that said pull it and shove it back in with a toothpick down the side (bad Idea-it will offset the anchor).

Current mileage 5 miles per can of Mountain Dew

Project Guitar · #15 11-20-2002, 12:03 AM

Just a follow up note, the reason some people think they are glued in at the factory is because they see a clear shiny substance over the anchors on some higher end models such as the PMC and GMC.

On other models you might see the actual color of the body over them

That is basicaly is nothing more than clearcoat or the paint. The anchors are inserted before the paint job in most cases to avoid checking and cracking as they expand the top of the wood when they are pressed in.

This does not apply to all models but on the higher end ones it is a common practice