String Tension Charts

[pwnzor]

Heres what it cost me to do my own string set at juststring.com... ive payed more for what i consider lesser string sets before....
*Edit* the pic is nice n fuzzy lol i dropped the quality way down... dunno y...it wasnt a large pic to start out with but i didnt wanna go back in and change it b/c i dont like using gimp for such simple tasks... it seems to take longer for me to do simple stuff using gimp.

[jacoby66]

Thanks, but are those numbers you showed me for c standard?

because they really dont feel that tight

and if it is ima go adjust my neck right now.

[jdh25]

Ibanez RG7620 7 string equipped with DR Black Beauties 9-52 Standard tuning BEADGBE

Was hoping to find a way to equip my guitar with drop C tuning CGCFAD not sure what 7 string version is. Previous poster had a 6 string set 11-58 that looked good on the tension charts. Is there any 7 string set that would be great for drop C or would I have to settle for drop D DADGBE.

Since you guys are proficient with strings I was also hoping to knock out a pickup question.

EMG HZ7-A Passive 7-String Humbucker Pickup Description claims “The pickup is housed in EMG's 35 Extended bass housing, so it's not a direct replacement for a humbucking pickup” meaning I would have to customize my guitar or what? A sure 7 string pickup that I compare with is the Seymour Duncan Invader Lamb of God is my favorite representation of this pickup and the EMG is supposed to be passive equilivent of the EMG85 so that would be representated by almost everyone I listen to (Mastodon KsE Shadows Fall).

Please enlighten me on the situation thanks all.

[nickname009]

Dee
You've got some great ideas here! I currently used the exact 11-58 custom set you have setup for drop C, except I use it in drop D (standard with the low E down a whole tone). In the beginning it was monstrously tough but I found exaggerated thick gauge strings helps keep me in tune a lot in a live situation (with the adrenaline and headbanging and runnin around I find that I usually go sharp cause i fret hard or might accidentally bend a string etc.)

Though lately I've been thinking of going a tad lighter, what kinda custom set would you recommend for regular Drop D on a 25.5" scale?

[Da KOG]

Dee - Wow - that is very valuable info! You da man! I have a question though about a alt 7 string tuning:

This post from you:
Gauge: 9-59 Custom Set
Scale: 25.5"
Tuning: Standard

Code:

E: .009" [PL] = 13.13 pounds
B: .012" [PL] = 13.11 pounds
G: .016" [PL] = 14.68 pounds
D: .024" [NW] = 15.77 pounds
A: .032" [NW] = 15.77 pounds
E: .044" [NW] = 16.10 pounds
B: .059 [NW] = 16.48 pounds

Total Tension = 105.04 pounds

What would you change if dropping the Low B to A?

Thanks!

[Musza]

Hi

Can U help me with 7-string Ernie Ball set for A-sharp standard tuning.

How about EB:
D#-10
A#-14
F#-18
C#-26
G#-36
D#-50
A#-66

or mabe

D#-11
A#-15
F#-20
C#-28
G#-40
D#-54
A#-68

??

[D1m3b4g2]

Custom sets are the way to go, this guide helped immensely thanks.

[D1m3b4g2]

Originally Posted by Da KOG

What would you change if dropping the Low B to A?

Thanks!

You'd be surprised the difference you need to go from a B to an A in a 7 string set.
In my experience you start geting a good A out of around a 66 gauge, but it depends entirely on the guitar. You can get away with a 56 for a B in most cases if you need to, even a 54 if you want it a bit slack, but you need to jump miles up the range for an A for some reason.

Must be to do with the tension required for the specific length of string, I'd recommend at least a 66 up to about 68/70 for an A if you like strings heavy. You could get away with a 64 but I wouldnt go lower. My choice is on the 66.

Hope this helps?

[Da KOG]

UPDATE:
All Ibanez floating trem guitarists should read.

I have been playing Ibanez floating trem guitars all my life and have always had tuning problems on everyone I have ever owned. Bad luck maybe - don't know how to properly set it up you might say...

Let me just say that PROGRESSIVE STRING TENSION WORKS!!

I can bend strings, go crazy with the whammy and every time I check the tuning it is DEAD ON!! I have never experienced anything like it and am surprised every time I check the tuning after a shred bending session. It works very well

Many thanks for posting this!!

[flankeratyer6]

I'm now itching for a change as Dee described at the beginning. Right now I've got stockpiles of 10,13,17,26,36,46 regulars and 9,11,16,24,32,42 super slinkys and it's a long way to the store while half-sedated to get at least those 9.5,12,44 etc strings. This is what I've worked out from these two sets:

#1 #2
gauge/lbs gauge/lbs
46-17.48 46-17.48
32-15.77 32-15.77
24-15.77 24-15.77
16-14.68 16-14.68
13-15.38 13-15.38
09-13.13 10-16.21

92.21 lbs 95.21 lbs
Does either of these seem like a good blend to try? I'm doing tune standard E BTW.

[JustVisiting]

Originally Posted by Dee

String manufacturers COULD offer graduated tension sets along with their normal sets and at least try out the idea. I don't understand why they won't.

I don't own a Jem (but do have a few Ibanez guitars), but I registered just so that I could respond to this thread. I too have been very interested in progressively tensioned strings sets for a number of years. I stumbled onto this thread doing some new research on them.

I thought I should point out that there is one artist/signature set out there that actually does it right - that set is the SRV Nickel Rocker set from GHS. I think SRV knew a thing or two about tone and good strings. Here's his set:

E4b .011" PL == 17.48#
B3b .015" PL == 18.24#
G3b .019" PL == 18.44#
D3b .028" NW == 18.98#
A2b .038" NW == 19.23#
E2b .058" NW == 25.27#

Now he went really thick on the low E which I don't do (I substitute a .052 at 19.61#), but you can see at how well balanced his set was. I took his set and decided to use the same idea for my medium and light sets.

My light set goes 09, 13, 17, 26, 36, 48
My medium set goes 10, 14, 18, 28, 38, 50

Note that the 6th string in these sets is slightly lower tensioned than the 5th, but I've found that I can't really feel it and that having a really thick 6th string just feels too strange. Now if you're doing any drop tunings though it would make total sense to go a bit heavier on the 6th.

Anyhow, just thought I'd mention the SRV set to those doubters who believe that there aren't any artist endorsed or signature sets that subscribe to the progressive tension idea.

After playing on these types of sets for years I can't stand the feel of a "normal" set of pre-packaged strings from pretty much every string vendor.

[screamndemon69]

I'm still using the light set (9-44) that Dee recommended on my Puzzle Top and really wish I could easily buy a fair priced set for ALL my tremmed guitars. Right now I only use those strings on the Puzzle Top since I would cost me an arm and a leg to outfit all my guitars with those gauges.

If you haven't tried this set and use .009-.042's, try it!! You might be very suprised!

~Bones

[Chad T]

I was referred to this thread by a post in a thread over on the JCF forum. Nice and informative thread! However, something that bothers me with these types of threads is that they often focus almost purely on string gauge & scale length when there are other factors that greatly affect how loose or tight strings end up feeling on a given guitar. I went fairly deep into this subject back about 10 years ago when I got into 7 string guitars (that crazy B string!) and Jazzmasters (more on that guitar to follow) and here are some other very important factors that must also be considered:


1. The amount of string length beyond the nut and bridge (i.e. outside of the scale length). The more string length, the looser the strings will feel and vice versa. This is very apparent with a guitar like a Jazzmaster that has a lot of string length beyond the bridge. I used heavier strings than normal with my Jazzmaster because of this. String length beyond the nut is also a big factor and I will break that down into two subpoints:

a) for guitars without a locking nut, when comparing a 6-in-a-row regular headstock with a reverse headstock on a guitar with all other things constant, the regular headstock will have a tighter feel on the low strings and a more elastic, looser feel on the high strings and vice versa provided the nut doesn't bind or prevent movement of the strings. Headstocks aren't just about looks! I DO NOT like reverse headstocks on standard scale 7 string guitars because of this.

b) for guitars with a locking nut, whether there is a regular or reverse headstock is largely irrelevant once the nut is locked. This is because the nut stops movement of the strings in the nut which effectively makes the strings feel shorter...but it also makes them feel more even because they are all clamped at the same place on the string length. The trem bridge will "give" some which can contribute to a looser feel, but I still feel that a guitar with a locking nut has a tighter feel.

2. The angle of the strings beyond the nut and bridge. The more downward angle there is, the tighter the strings will feel. This is why the strings have a much looser feel on a Les Paul when you wrap the strings around the tailpiece (Zakk Wylde style) versus stringing traditional (through the tailpiece).

3. How thick the core wire is on the wound strings. This is a big factor that makes some brands feel "looser" or "tighter" than others. I tried to research this back 10 years ago and found the information isn't exactly easy to find. But I did find it interesting to unwind wound strings from manufacturers and measure the core wires with dial calipers. Unfortunately, that was long ago and I didn't document the data. What I do know is that I found I most prefer the feel of D'Addario XLs. I should add that overall string construction in general largely affects the feel of strings. For example, flatwounds have a very tight feel compared to regular wound strings. I'd think that the more overall mass a string has, the tighter it will comparatively feel.


BTW, discussing all of this looser/tighter feel stuff I feel that I should clarify something. When there is more string length outside the scale length, the resulting feel is indeed looser, but when bending vertically on the fretboard to a given pitch you have to travel further to reach the pitch. With lesser string length beyond the scale length you have to exert more pressure, but don't have to travel as far vertically on the fretboard to reach the given pitch. I don't know the physics terminology but in my mind I think of it as you are exerting the same amount of energy just in different ways.


In summary, that list is not intended to be exhaustive, but does bring 3 other factors to the table that need to be considered. You can be surprised how much they affect the feel of the strings. The bottom line is that whether you strive for even tension, progressive, or whatever tension, you can't just run some formula and expect it to mean a whole lot beyond providing some ball park guidelines. You HAVE to also consider and look into the construction and setup of the guitar and also the brand/model strings you are using. I found it best to run the calculations then buy various strings, then experiment by feel to see what is best for a given guitar and tuning.

[Thrashman]

Felt this was the place to ask for advice, since it may save me some trial-and error, and quite some money aswell!

What gauge strings would one go for on a 7-string guitar tuned to F# standard, while retaining the feel of a guitar in standard E strung with 10's, or possibly 9's, or in between?

Tuning would be as follows:

B
F#
D
A
E
B
F#

Thanks

[Trickae]

Hey Guys,

Great thread here. I've been playing an ernie ball hybrid 9-46 gauge and can't help but feel that the low E isn't tight enough. Would it hurt too much for me to stick a 48 or 49 on it? I know D'addario Jazz strings come with 49's

9-11-16-26-36-49

I've seen other posts recommending 12's for the b' string

9-12-16-26-36-49

And if I stuck with those gauges for my 7 string - would this be alright?

9-12-16-26-36-49-60

?

thanks in advance.