ZR Tremolo Setup Guide (PicStory, TONS of pics) ZRTremolo - Page 3

millzy · #31 12-31-2007, 08:51 AM

hi, this is cool but i was just wondering why you wind the balls ends round the posts...its cool and loads do it so im gonna do it next time! also, do you only wrap them round once, im keen to know??
anyone else help?

Rich · #32 12-31-2007, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by F.P.R.O.

(Waiting to hear Rich reply...)

I'll guess, to the intonation question? It's in the manual, but, you unscew it and screw it in the back of the saddle, look from the butt strap pin toward the headstock and you'll see the threaded holes. Screw it in until it stops, unlock the saddle hold down screw [do it more than once and you will be replacing it] and you can use the tool to move the saddle back and forth.

pes_laul · #33 12-31-2007, 01:57 PM

ok thanks I know when I got it It didn't come with the manual

Rich · #34 12-31-2007, 02:14 PM

Manuals are on ibanez.com

shogun · #35 01-01-2008, 10:42 PM

i would def. intonate after removing ALL the strings off the guitar.

xrunner6 · #36 01-02-2008, 05:45 PM

Is the trem bar a screw in type or a drop in, say like the edge threebut of course i know the ZR is tightened from the top. Is there a tensioner piece thats needed under the bar?

I ordered a new for the used S520 i bought and also noticed there wasn't any tensioner type screw and spring on the underside.

Thanks

-Rhaab · #37 01-02-2008, 05:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xrunner6

Is the trem bar a screw in type or a drop in, say like the edge threebut of course i know the ZR is tightened from the top. Is there a tensioner piece thats needed under the bar?

I ordered a new for the used S520 i bought and also noticed there wasn't any tensioner type screw and spring on the underside.

Thanks

The bar is a screw in type. There is no tensioner screw at the bottom. its at the top, when the bar is screwed in you tighten or loosen the nutlike adjustment. I prefer my bar loose.

xrunner6 · #38 01-02-2008, 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by -Rhaab

The bar is a screw in type. There is no tensioner screw at the bottom. its at the top, when the bar is screwed in you tighten or loosen the nutlike adjustment. I prefer my bar loose.

Hey thanks Rhaab! Funny thing is on the e bay i saw one for sale that was a screw in type in figured that he was selling the wrong bar for the S/ZR trem and went on the Ibanez site it looked like it didn't have any threads at all. It looked like it just went to a thinner diameter without any threads>

thanks

-Rhaab · #39 01-02-2008, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by xrunner6

Hey thanks Rhaab! Funny thing is on the e bay i saw one for sale that was a screw in type in figured that he was selling the wrong bar for the S/ZR trem and went on the Ibanez site it looked like it didn't have any threads at all. It looked like it just went to a thinner diameter without any threads>

thanks

the bar sounds like a edge 3 bar, it just goes in, it has no threads and the bar tension constanly has to be tightened or it will get so loose that it just falls out.

TMatt142 · #40 01-17-2008, 08:28 PM

Well, that answers my question! I bought my S-470 (just like the one in this thread) back in 03' and GC of course doesn't keep their bars for the trems separate (based on models). I believe I have the wrong bar being that mine is constantly loose. It actually wiggles a bit. BTW, very nice guide to the ZR...It's actually how I've always changed strings on mine since getting it. Except for a few things. #1 I don't use a battery. I have a small wood block that I sprayed with felt that is the same size as a aaa battery. #2 I lube all points on my trems ZR or not, including springs. If everything moves smoothly, it stays in tune better.

Metalartin · #41 02-21-2008, 08:34 PM

I have a question, Ive bought the s320 which has the same bridge, Im new at this but understand a bit more now through reading guides like this(thanks btw) but I dont understand some of the problems Im having. I didnt put the strings on I sent it for a set up(wanted 11s on there too), the strings felt uncomfortably tight when I took it home(no chance of bending on them) even for 11s and Im not sure the bridge was even level.

So to save myself the doubts Ive attempted learning myself, Im attempting to get the bridge level along with setting the intonation. I tightend the springs and its level, wound the tuner back as far as it will go for the low E and its still F# ie. nowhere near. Has he cut the strings too short, or am I missing something? Ive slackened them all off and messed with it but its so far out that even tightening all the others full whack I was still sharp of the E.

Its wound on the post 3 times at the neck end... shall I go for unwinding them one notch or undo the strings totally and have a look and see if he didnt cut them too short afterall?

Metalartin · #42 02-22-2008, 06:28 PM

So anyone with a ZR here got on any ideas that theyd try first?

**moebius** · #43 02-22-2008, 06:36 PM

Well, I would not imagine that most people could do much bending on a set of 11s. I am having a little trouble understanding your problem. If I am reading this right, you can not get your strings in tune? When you say you wound the tuner back as far as it goes, are you referring to the fine tuners on the bridge?
Perhaps just put new strings on and try again?

Fender868 · #44 02-22-2008, 06:48 PM

Short has nothing to do with it. Sounds like you need to scrap it and start over. If it feels too tight, well maybe it has something to do with the fact that you have a heavy gauge set of strings and that you're tuner is telling you you're two steps above the correct tuner.

Unless i am getting this wrong of course. Either way, it's not rocket science. Start over, level the bridge, tune the strings. Once it's tune lock the top, take out the wedge and adjust the trem claw springs.

Metalartin · #45 02-22-2008, 06:49 PM

moebius well yes thats the problem, do you have this bridge? To get the bridge level with the body which is how it should look the spring needs to be tightened at the back. Doing that puts tension on the strings though so obviously the pitch is raised when you do that so you have to wind/turn the tuner back(yes the fine tuners at the bridge) Ive done this but they are back full and the wound E is still way to high.

About the 11s, since then I changed the setup... it appeared he didnt adjust the spring at the back which most people putting on 11s have said is necessary. I got it in tune again myself but it wasnt totally level but atleast the strings didnt require a silly amount of effort to even fret a note. Ive used them for a while now on my other guitar, so I really do think that was far above the norm to have strings that tight = uncomfortable and unplayable. Maybe I should send it to another guy for a setup but I feel like I could do this myself with how fast Ive picked alot of it up.