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  #16  
Old 03-04-2007, 12:29 AM
ibanezcollector  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


ok on to the pickup covers..

Here is a pic of the fine tooth rasp I use, I bought a pack of these for $4 at a Big Lots here in Cleveland.


Our stock pickup cover with its square edges again not to vintage looking


Take your rasp and again begin to scrape in a upwards motion like pictured.



Again you will have a bunch of plastic still sticking to the pickup cover. Just remove it with your fingernail like you did with the knobs


Take the cover and repeat the sanding and smoothing of the tops with 100 grit first and then with the 220 grit. Remember to move it at angles too you dont want to just rub it flat. We are trying to round over the sides and to blend them with the rest of the pickup cover. You can also at this point do some sanding with your hand just smoothing over that edge we just created. Take your time here and just sand it till its smooth and rounded. You cant rush this stage we dont want it to look like you just took a rasp to it.
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  #17  
Old 03-04-2007, 12:29 AM
ibanezcollector  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


When your done with the sanding at this point it should look like this. You can see the sides are rounded over now and not square edged. Now were getting somewhere. If you happened to sand thru the pickup cover dont fear thats actually ok. Remember above in the original 54' strat how it was worn like that?


In this pick I am basically just removing a little of the bottom of the cover to make the new found split look a little more pronounced. like in the original.. BE CAREFUL WITH THESE HOBBY KNIFES THOSE THINGS ARE SHARP.. Pickup covers can be replaced fingers cant.


Next step is optional strings corrode so obviously there will be some dirty marks on the covers where the knobs wouldnt, this is a detail. Take your pencil and draw some random jibberish on the pickup cover. You dont need alot, a little goes a long way.


Take your finger and rub it in till its blended and you can no longer see the drawing just a slight mark where it was


And there you have it a set of simulated bakelite covers, nicely rounded over and ready to go on the project.



And finally here is our full set of bakelite replica parts.


ENJOY
Brett

STAY TUNED... The fun is just beginning.
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  #18  
Old 03-04-2007, 12:45 AM
Axayacatl  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


so far its looking great. Thanks for the tutorial....
hehe.. it IS a little insane....what would be great would be an old crusty rocker pumped with botox to look young holding a new squier strat made to look crusty....

One question: why did you keep the guard part where the strings go "unfinished"? Is it because the strings would normally lead to less aging?

axayacatl
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  #19  
Old 03-04-2007, 12:46 AM
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sick-boy  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


I don't want to derail your thread, but I have a question.
Is there anything that you've tried that you can say for a fact does not work?

In my research trying to find things on relics, I've mostly come across things written in speculation on forums and what not.
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  #20  
Old 03-04-2007, 12:53 AM
ibanezcollector  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


well for plastics alot of people claim coffee will turn the parts a vintage color but out of about 10 sets coffee turned one set a color and it was anything but vintage LOL.. It was a funky yellow color. So I say the coffee trick doesnt work.

Alot of relic work is different practices by different people doing the relic, I guess there is now wrong or right. Its preference. I like to think I am trying to keep everything close. Again nothing can replace a vintage instrument worn the old fashioned way by playing the bejesus out of it in smokey clubs 6 days a week.

I only know what works best for me.
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  #21  
Old 03-04-2007, 12:55 AM
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sick-boy  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


Actually, the coffee trick is what I was hinting at.
Cool, thanks for the info.
I'm looking forward to more posts.
Now if I can just find a Squire...
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  #22  
Old 03-04-2007, 12:56 AM
Axayacatl  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


so what about the unfinished part on the pickguard?
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  #23  
Old 03-04-2007, 01:11 AM
ibanezcollector  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


on aged pickguards for some reason I dont know but they always are lighter under the strings. maybe its cause they dont get touched as much, I dont know but almost all I see from the 60s are aged like that.
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  #24  
Old 03-04-2007, 01:25 AM
Rotti  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ibanezcollector View Post
well for plastics alot of people claim coffee will turn the parts a vintage color but out of about 10 sets coffee turned one set a color and it was anything but vintage LOL.. It was a funky yellow color. So I say the coffee trick doesnt work.
Coffee doesn't work well but Tea works great. It doesn't take long either. Just thought I'd throw that in. Good job with the tutorial. Keep it coming.
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  #25  
Old 03-04-2007, 02:12 AM
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Ayrton  is offline
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ibanezcollector View Post
So I say the coffee trick doesnt work.
Well I don't know how vintage it makes them look, but I tint my covers with coffee. I don't know why it works for some, and not others.

Great thread!
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  #26  
Old 03-04-2007, 07:11 AM
eelblack2  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


Awesome thread.
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  #27  
Old 03-04-2007, 11:38 AM
ibanezcollector  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


ok the moment im sure some are waiting for the neck.. How do you create realistic neck wear? Well you can either relic it or play it for 20 years.

Things needed:
150,220 and 320 grit sandpaper
good masking tape, dont dare try this with cheapo masking tape I use 3M its a bit thicker and it will hold up to what were about to do.
Miniwax Special Walnut stain
Toilet Paper(again we need a plain toilet paper no dimples or prints)

Ok here we have a picture of the stock neck.. Surprising this squier has some nice flame in it, always a nice thing. There is one real thick flame band pretty cool adds character.


What I do next is take a piece of tape and tear a random design in it.. If your really interested you can mark out your design of what you want the wear to end like but I feel a random tear gives better results.


Do the same thing for both sides and then mask off a good part of the area behind it. Now you really want to make sure that this tape is pushed down and sealed. What were going to do next if you used cheap tape you will find out that its not going to work.


The back of most guitar necks have a very thin layer of satin poly, we are going to remove this by sanding it. DO NOT try using heavier grit papers to make the work faster, you will get scratches. I know this step is going to take a while but just work at it.. First with 150, then the 220, and finally the 320. When your done the neck will be smooth as butter. And notice the tape didnt lift at all.. Still where it was put
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  #28  
Old 03-04-2007, 11:39 AM
ibanezcollector  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


Ok next step now that your neck is sanded back to the wood, is give it a good wipe down to take the sanding dust off it.. If you have access to a air compressor give it a good shot to blow the dust off. I do not have that luxury so I just wipe it down good and blow it off the old fashioned way..

Now grab your toilet paper and the Miniwax Special Walnut stain and get a good amount on the paper, the newly sanded back neck is going to absorb that stain quick..


Here is the neck with 1 coat of the stain on.. Starting to get that look.. I used 4 coats of the Miniwax stain, with about 5-10 mins inbetween coats to let it absorb in.


After the 4 coats were on I waited about 20 mins then I carefully removed the tape. As you can see we have a obvious stain line from the stock neck to the newly finished neck


never fear that is normal we did create it, but its a easy fix very lightly and carefully take your finger and just pull the stain back about a 1/8"-1/16" were just trying to blend in that seam with the rest of the neck. Dont take your big nubby fingers and jab it just lightly rub it back almost not touching it at all. AND MAKE SURE NOT TO TOUCH THE REST OF THE NEWLY FINISHED NECK


And there you have it, realistic neck wear.. Now put the neck somewhere safe for a couple days, we are not done with her yet, she will get some more treatment to make it blend in smoother we just need to wait a while before moving on.. *The flash picture makes it look darker than it is, the non flash shot is truer to the actual outcome*

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  #29  
Old 03-04-2007, 01:11 PM
fettouhi  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


Very cool thread! Looks awesome so far .

Regards

André
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  #30  
Old 03-04-2007, 03:08 PM
ibanezcollector  is offline
 
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Re: How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.


Ok here we go the metal relicing.

Now first of there is a few ways to do this, I will explain three with the most dangerous and caustic first.

*Beware these steps are extremely dangerous and I do not use these methods due to said danger.*

I have read and seen people who have used Muratic Acid fumes to wear there metal parts. I choose my lungs, skin and safety over this method. But basically it works like this you need two containers one small enough to fit into the other. You will pour some Muratic Acid into the bigger container and then put your parts in the smaller one, Then put the smaller container into the bigger container so ONLY the fumes come in contact with the metal not the actual Acid. I never used this method and dont suggest it.

The second method is to use Circuitboard Etchant Solution sold at Radio Shack, this method is the quickest but can also be dangerous and can ruin your parts in a matter of seconds turning them black.. I dont even know how it works or why. Again I prefer the non-caustic way which I will explain below.


For my method I prefer something that takes a little more time, but its safe to me and everyone around me.

Things you will need:
Metal pan for boiling(this is something you dont want to keep so make sure its a junk pan and not your moms best pan LOL
Mortons Iodized Salt
White Vinegar
Water
Time, Time, Time, this is not for the impatient.

Ok first step get your salt and vinegar.. If your hungry get some chips too.


One pan full of water.. Start that stove and let the fun begin


Add a decent amount of salt to the water, I would say a cup of salt if this was a recipe.. What we are going to make is a Salt water brine.


Now some agree with this some dont.. I have had excellent results with this method. We are going to add some Vinegar to the mix, vinegar is usually between 3-5% acidity. So in the process of the salt water brine were going to add some of that acidity to the mix which will help in the aging process. Now dont over do it I used about a 1/2 a cup of vinegar.


Get a nice sized container and throw all your metal parts in there.. Obviously dont throw your electrical parts like pots, switches, and pickups, etc etc in there. LOL


As you can see the salt has no become one with the water.. This is what were after. You dont need to boil it for hours just until the water and salt have mixed.
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black pickguard, clear coat, custom shop, fender strat, maple fret, maple fretboard, pickup cover, squier strat, steel wool, vintage strat


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