How to do a relic guitar: Photo tutorial 56k Stay far away.

ibanezcollector · #1 03-03-2007, 01:33 AM

Ok here we go.. How to do a relic guitar, a practice that seems to be shrouded in secrecy. I am by no means a master of relic work but have been doing it for a while as a hobby. I want to present to the folks at jemsite how "I" do my relic jobs.

First step is to get a guitar or bass.. pretty simple you would think. But if this is your first time you might not want to try this on your beloved instrument. A SX Bass or a Squier strat make a perfect candidate for your first few times.

I will be using this Squier strat as the victim for this tutorial. Now I know the purists are going to bash and say its stupid or just play it and let it happen naturally. Well that doesnt always hold true for people hence hundreds of luthiers and custom shops are offering relics.

If your guitar is nitro laquer this will be a 100x easier to replicate and also will look much more natural but in most cases this just isnt going to happen with todays durable thick poly finishes. The squier in this tutorial is a poly finish.

Ok here is a shot of the body before any relic work, its black obviously and has aged white fender parts. *Sorry for the fingerprints and glare im not a camera man LOL*

Couple shots of the neck pre reliciing.. Notice I have already done a logo change on this neck before deciding to do this tutorial.. I can explain this more down the road if need be.

And a couple shots of the mirror like finish on this guitar.. Not for long

This concludes the intro to this little tutorial now on to the next phase..

Now im going to ask nicely please if you have nothing nice to say please save it for another thread. PLEASE

ibanezcollector · #2 03-03-2007, 01:33 AM

ok Phase 2 would be a simple one.. Take her apart..

Ok here we go.. Pile of metal parts. Notice the bridge is already showing wear. I had this from a old project but it was once shiney and new and I will explain how I got that look.

One neck stripped of all her hardware

One naked body isnt she sexy?

And finally one pickguard and 2 sets of parts(aged white and natural white) I will be doing two different relic options on these. Aged white will get a small relic treatment, natural white will be getting a BIG time consuming treatment to simulate the old bakelite parts.

*This guard was once natural white as you can tell because of detail.. Under the knobs I kept it white exactly how a aged pickguard would look. This guard was created by using warm water and some Ritt Tan Liquid Fabric dye. Its a simple process. Fill a tub with water, pour in some of the dye. Check every so often till you get the color you are looking for. For me I wanted it to match the aged white parts from fender.. Pretty close huh..

Stay tuned..

ibanezcollector · #3 03-03-2007, 01:34 AM

Ok the first thing were going to work on is the pickguard if you have one. A true vintage guard always seems to be cleaner and not as faded under the strings and obviously under the knobs. We are going to simulate that as well.. Its about the details..

So here we have our stock cream colored guard. You can use white or mint.. what ever you want, even black, but black you can just fade the gloss off whats the fun in that

This is the list of things I will be using for the pickguard:
0000ga Steel Wool must and I will say it 2x use 0000ga steel wool
Miniwax IpSwich Pine
Miniwax Special Walnut
Toliet paper must be plain no dimples or lines etc just cheap toliet paper
Paper towels doesnt matter what kind
Q-tips
Rubber glove if you like not having dyed hands

First thing we need to do is remove the gloss from the pickguard as shown here

This is done by rubbing the 0000ga steel wool in variable ways dont keep a consistent up down or right left or it will show.. I use small circular motions.. This stuff is going to get everywhere but dont worry about cleaning it off at this point leave it there.

with the pickguard all rubbed down you will now see that there is no gloss left on it. Its nice and flat which is perfect for the next steps cause in this process we also roughed up the finish just enough to accept the stain.

the next step is were going to grab the IpSwich Pine and put a nice amount on a paper towel crinkled up.. Dont dip it so its dripping everywhere but make sure ya go some on there

ibanezcollector · #4 03-03-2007, 01:35 AM

I basically just wipe it on from left to right making sure its got a good cover. You also dont want to wipe any where the strings would be. You should look close to this right now.

Now I will take my plain toilet paper and crinkle it up and begin dabbing in alternating dabs. Dont press to hard were just trying to get the uniformaty of the application to look more natural. Remember to dab in alternating dabs so nothing looks the same. *Pay special attention to the area under the strings you want ot blend this in as much as possible you dont want it to look like a seam is there. Just dab it a little more by that seperation of colors*

I then will take my bare finger and do circular motions under where the knobs would be. This is a detail step if you want to do it is up to you. Its not neccessary.

You should look like this right now.. You can repeat the above steps as many times you want. Its up to you to how you want it to look. But remember KNOW WHEN TO QUIT its easy to over relic your guitar and the most common mistake done by new guys. Check **** there is some hideous relics on there that are just over done. Remember were trying to make this as realistic as possible.

Next step is again a detail step. Alot of vintage strats will show dirt and rust stains around the screw holes. We will be using the Special Walnut stain for this part. Get yourself a Q-tip and dip it in the stain

Take it and push it into the hole.. Simple enough, I also will apply some by the switch this again is a detail step.

Now dont freak out when the two stains clash it will look like this. Not a biggie grab some more toilet paper and crinkle it up and dab very lightly to blend the two colors together. Remember when I said dont clean off the steel wool particles you can see were leaving them on for the time being and you will see why later on.

ibanezcollector · #5 03-03-2007, 01:36 AM

Now are guard is done, set it off to the side and let it dry as long as possible.. Stain doesnt absorb into plastic so we need to have time on our side.. It will dry till its really tacky and then were ready to finish our guard.. But until then just leave it alone for a week or so

Thats all for tonight boys and girls.. We will continue this tommorrow when we start working on the knobs and pickup covers....

Stay tuned...

ibanezcollector · #6 03-03-2007, 01:36 AM

ok I got a little extra time so figured we would finish the aged white pickup covers and knobs. Its basically the same technique as the pickguard but the covers get a extra step.. A secret ingredient

Ok bust out the 0000ga steel wool again and take that gloss down to a flat sheen.. As you can see the steel wool breaks up rather easy leaving a trail of small metal threads. Might want to wear a long sleeve shirt and jeans if you got real sensitive skin. Def dont go rubbin your eyes.

One done, two to go.. See how the gloss is gone.. if your guitar or bass only has black plastic parts then you can stop at this stage, you can how ever dab a little stain on a part you buffed flat to add a different texture to it.. Like on a bass black pickguard where your fingers would rub when say, playing slap it would be flat but that part would be a different texture

With all three buffed down, I will then take the Miniwax Ipswich Pine staind and again begin to dab it in random patterns on the top and partially on the sides of the covers only.. Smoke and dirt usually doesnt get where it cant go. Keep this in mind.. Remember its details that seperate a good relic from a bad one. If there seen or not its about details..

You can clearly see the color change from the stain. Not drastic but its enough.. Parts usually dont turn deep yellow unless you played in cigar bars for 40 years. Its usually a mid-amber color. Find a smokers teeth use that for your reference hahahaha.

Bust out the Miniwax Special Walnut stain and do the Q-tip trick again. Just dab it in the stain. dab a little off on the cans top and stick it right in the covers hole. Again the stains will react with each other but this is a good thing. When it spreads like that it creates a halo around the hole of a darker color just like it would in real life.

Dab the covers with the toilet paper and get ready for the secret ingredient.. Haha im building anticipation and its for nothing..

ibanezcollector · #7 03-03-2007, 01:37 AM

Ok grab yourself a pencil and very lightly and randomly draw some circles around the holes, some full circles, some semi-circles, some close to nothing. Its not a dramatic thing were looking for. Its when we put the covers back on the pickups we want it to blend well.

You can see in this pic its not a dark or big area we are trying to cover.. Just a little goes a long way. Dab the pencil marks with the toilet paper to blend them in. Just like with the stain

And here we have our finished pickup covers. Again put them in a safe place for at least a week.. Do not try to pick them up or put them in a bag they need to lay flat and be able to air dry unbothered.

ibanezcollector · #8 03-03-2007, 01:37 AM

the knobs are the easiest part to do.. Take you Miniwax Ipswich stain get some on a paper towel and dab it all around the knob. get it on nice and thick. Like so..

All three knobs with the stain on

Carefully pick up the knob, trying not to touch it.. And put it in some toilet paper.

Grab the toilet paper and give it a good squeeze in your hand. This will take the majority of the stain off but it will also give it a random pattern in the grooves and the knob.

Knobs done.

And if your following this, we now have a plastic set almost done. It should look like this, at this point.. I know I know my jazz bass doesnt have plastic knobs we will get to aging metal later on.

Now when we go to simulate the bakelight knobs and covers of the 50s its a much harder ordeal. Lots of cramping in the hands, and time consuming. But stay tuned...

ibanezcollector · #9 03-04-2007, 01:06 AM

this thread since there seems to be no interest can be view in full at
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=313961

**elcid** · #10 03-04-2007, 01:19 AM

I prefer it with no interest, now I dont have to scroll though meaningless posts like

"subscribed" and "+1"

Im following it man.

sick-boy · #11 03-04-2007, 01:24 AM

I'm interested. Please continue. I think it's nice that someone is actually taking the time to show how this is done. A lot of times, even the amateurs closely guard their relicing tips. Keep up the good work, even if I'm the only one here paying attention.

ibanezcollector · #12 03-04-2007, 01:26 AM

alright ill keep it here as well.. LOL

Ok folks, just got home at dinner and were going to tackle one of the hardest things to reproduce and thats the coveted Bakelite parts found on the earliest Fender guitars from the 50s. Nothing is going to be 100% but its worth the effort to get 75% of the look.

I would like to thank http://www.provide.net/~cfh/fender.html for the pictures and I want to give them respect for being a true resource for the Fender collector/enthusiast.

Here is a photo of a real 54' Fender Strat notice on the pickup cover how it is worn completely thru, again these techniques can be used not only on guitars but any relic. These knobs were also of a different height and shape and were replaced with normal knobs we see today

Left: The two pickup covers on the outside are ABS plastic. The three covers on the insides are "bakelite" (actually polystyrene, but collectors refer to it incorrectly as "bakelite"). Note how the "bakelite" covers are whiter, and the edges have rounded. When new, the "bakelite" cover edges were as shape as the ABS covers. But with time, the edges round only on the polystyrene covers. They can even wear to show the black pickup itsef underneath.
Right: The top row of knobs are ABS, the bottom row are "bakelite" (polystyrene). Notice again how the edges of the "bakelite" knobs wear (especially on the volume knob), and the ABS edges don't. Also the "bakelite" knobs are whiter.

ibanezcollector · #13 03-04-2007, 01:26 AM

Ok folks here we go, this is a labor intensive part if you choose to go with this style of covers and knobs.

List of things your going to need:
Fine Toothed Rasp or File
Sandpaper 100 and 220 grit
Steelwool 0000ga
Paper Clip
Hobby Knife

And lots of patience this will make your hands cramp.. I will have to go more into detail then the pics show to explain it.. Its something pics cant show the best.

The hardest part to replicate and your never going to truly get one perfect is the switch tip.. I try my best to remove the seam line on the tip and to take some of the beef of the lower part of the tip off.

To do this I take a screw and just turn it till it grabs, dont go drilling this thing into the switch tip just enough to make a holder for it like so.

I then take it and wrap it in the 100 grit paper and spin it around about a billion times.. This step alone will make your hand cramp LOL. Try to maintain pressure on that seam line and the bulk of the tip more than anything. You want to make the tip narrower than stock.

Thats it on the tip, at this point it should look like this. No more seam line and alot closer to the vintage shape. This like I said is extremely hard to duplicate with todays parts. If someone has a better way then please feel free to show it.

ibanezcollector · #14 03-04-2007, 01:27 AM

on to the knobs. This is a ton of work but the results are awesome. Especially if your doing a 50s style relic.

Here is the stock knob with its square edged shape not to vintage looking.

Take the fine tooth rasp and begin to scrape it upwards at about this angle

It shoud look like this, at this point.. You can see were taking a good chunk of the plastic off.

Take your fingernail and scrape off the debris, your part should now look like this..

Really rough looking and im sure some are going to say wow this looks like crap.. read on

Take your 100 grit paper and spin the knob, rub it back and forth, dont just do it flat do it at angles as well.. Rinse and repeat with the 220 grit paper

ibanezcollector · #15 03-04-2007, 01:28 AM

Then take the 100 grit and wrap it around the knob like so, and twist the knob. This is going to smooth the edges. This part is a pain in the ass im not going to lie. My hands just lock up when doing this. Switch to the 220 grit paper and do the same thing.

Next step we got to get rid of some of that gold coloring in the knobs letters. For this I use a paper clip

Just scrape it carefully, try not to gouge the plastic you dont need a heavy scrape just multiple smooth and even scrapes. Finally take your 0000ga steel wool and rub the whole knob down till it is smooth. Take it to the sink and rinse it off.

In these pics I did not do the lower numbers yet I wanted to save some time and get this in the tutorial before I went to bed. But here is the final product. As you can see it has a beautiful rounded over feel pretty close to the originals. Again due to todays plastics its almost impossible to get the height of the originals. Remember you also want to keep these bright and white.