FR style bridges w/ 16" radius?

[mike-o]

What are some Floyd Rose style bridges that have 16" radiuses?

[losgatosrg350dx]

for the most part they are all over 16 inches
a 16inch flat radius guitar for instance the bridge sits at a tad bit over 17 inches

whats ur issue ypour trying to figure out..?

[ryanb]

You are pretty much either stuck with the Edge series (at about 17") or just shim the saddles on the model you prefer.

[losgatosrg350dx]

the question is what kind of radius do you have compound/straight...and what is the spec on it

and what is it for, what what is the mod you are trying to do..?

[mike-o]

Well for a Warmoth compound radius neck (10" to 16") i figure I could use an OFR nut and then an Edge bridge, but the edge is like $250 so I'm looking for a cheaper alternative. And I'm trying to avoid shims cause they kill sustain (tried it before). Also it's a flush-mount floyd, so no lo-profile bridges

[losgatosrg350dx]

you only hope for complete matching is a kahler.....but thats what i love about them, and without pluggin them ill go a different way

you should be able to get away with most any fr bridge, the only thing is ibanez and most other guitars, have a strait radius neck, iabanezes arent compound, well some are....but generaly speaking....this makes the radius almost a 17 maybe even more sometimes....if you are using a warmoth neck you shouldnt have a problem but you might need to have the fretts dressed and leveled on the compound radius neck before a floyd would feel right

the 10 radius on the top makes floyd feel really high.

i would suggest a edge serries, then again you could get more angle and control with a kahler setup ONLY becasue the warmoth 10-16 compunt necks(what model did u buy) most likely will have a alternate string spacing and wont feel comfortable since the floyds have a designated and non adjustable string spacing unlike a kahler......the strings may come up wider at the neck what floyd nut are you using, i didnt know tey made a 10 radius nut..? i have a kahler but i do not use locking nuts, i dont ever feel like it helps i have a corian cut nut

[Drew]

What are your thoughts on a Wilkinson? Its not a locking trem, but the one on my strat absolutely rules,and with a roller nut or a graphite nut and locking tuners you can throw quite a lot at it...

[mike-o]

Will a flush mount Edge fit where a flush mount OFR should go? I know the Edge does work flushmount, the old prolines with edges worked that way. But i was wondering if the post spacing and stuff should be ok.

[RenegadeAmps]

You can lap the middle 4 saddles on a floyd down to the right height to accomodate a flatter radius. I just stick some 100 grit sand paper to my table saw top and lap the bottom of the saddle down by hand. A little fiddleing and you can get good results. I've still got saddle shims in one of my Floyds to accomodate a compound radius FB, I've not noticed any sustain losses After all they are little Stainless shims that are clamped tight under the saddle. It's a solid mechanical connection so there should not be any noticable dampening.

[Drew]

Originally Posted by mike-o

Will a flush mount Edge fit where a flush mount OFR should go? I know the Edge does work flushmount, the old prolines with edges worked that way. But i was wondering if the post spacing and stuff should be ok.

I just did a swap in the other direction, pulling a LoPro7 for an OFR7, and based on that, I'm going to guess no. The LoPro has a pretty symmetrical body, while the Original is narrower on the bass side, and a little wider on the treble. In practical terms, that translates to a gap of maybe a quarter inch or so on the bass side, and having to file off the paint on the treble side so the OFR wouldn't brush against the side of the trem route.

Going the other way, then, if we assume that the Floyd route is pretty even, you'll have room to spare on the treble side, but the bass side will probably require routing.

The post spacing and alignment is correct, however - I still haven't gotten around to doing a full intonation, but I eyeballed it based on my LoPro and if it's not perfect, it's at least close enough that I haven't noticed yet.

And, honestly, I'll get flamed for saying this here, but my experience for the first couple weeks is that the OFR is the better bridge. Are you sure you want to put an Edge in? It has a few refinements (the locking posts are big, but I'm still using them, and it weirds me out a little that there's no spring retainer on the back of the trem block), but overall the OFR just feels more substantial, sounds better, and seems to hold tune flawlessly.