..(Yes, it IS a JS).. and wiring problems

horstausmforst · #1 06-15-2004, 04:40 PM

My heart is still pumping...

http://cgi.ebay.de/ws/ebayISAPI.dll?...tem=3729373402

Some people simply don't know what they're selling.

H-S-H JS1 for 221 bucks. Placed the bid 4 seconds before end.

No more words. I'm out for a walk.

......YYYYYEEEEEHAAAAA

darren wilson · #2 06-15-2004, 05:04 PM

Nice.

horstausmforst · #3 06-30-2004, 12:57 PM

The guitar finally arrived... the output jack s a little noisy, but almost(*) everything else is fine. Ok, spent 6 hours just cleaning the axe, lol. Those Pickups are mean. I don't know how I could live without a high-pass filter before!!

cheers.

(*) seems like the volume push-pull pot has been replaced with a regular pot. so the high-pass-stuff doesn't work.. Anyone got a neato wiring scheme? On ibanez.com, there are just wiring schemes of the js1000, which do NOT sport the middle pickup.

horstausmforst · #4 06-30-2004, 01:00 PM

Oh, and did all JS1s come with the vlx91 switch?? Do they even NEED the vlx91??

RCB · #5 06-30-2004, 02:04 PM

A JS1 for 220USD is a great buy!

horstausmforst · #6 06-30-2004, 05:48 PM

220EUR= 250$, but great nonetheless.

Could someone with a hsh-JS1 please check his wiring? In my JS, the HS2-Middle PU is always wired in humbucking mode (black+white soldered together and not connected to anything else)

Also, I got pretty weird pickup combos:

without tone pot pulled:

1: Complete Bridge PU
2: Complete Bridge PU + Middle PU
3: Middle
4: Middle+Bridge side of Neck PU
5: Complete Neck PU

with pulled tone pot:

1: Bridge side of bridge PU
2: Bridge side of bridge PU + Middle PU
3: Like (2)
4: Bridge Side of Bridge PU + Middle PU + Bridge Side of neck PU
5: Bridge side of bridge PU + Complete neck PU

Something isn't right here. Does anyone know how it's supposed to be?

gitarrero · #7 07-02-2004, 05:00 AM

I will check the wiring on my guitar. Anyway, it sounds like the pre-owner of yours replaced the switchable high pass capacitor by an additional coil tap.

horstausmforst · #8 07-02-2004, 06:32 PM

Alright then, thanks!

The Idea of an overkill-coiltap is actually beginning to grow on me. Hmm I wonder if it's possible to achieve something like this when the pot is pulled:

1: FRED, Bridge side
2: FRED, Neck side
3: HS-2 operating as true single coil
4: PAF PRO bridge side
5: PAF PRO neck side.

...five single coils. Uberstrat.

Moderators: I think this thread now fits better into the Pickup/Wiring section. Thanks!

horstausmforst · #9 07-03-2004, 08:42 AM

Thanks for moving!

I *think* I have figured out what has been changed on the guitar. After looking through the JS1000 Diagrams and thinking a lot about these weird combinations and finally verifying it in my guitar, it's just the black+white of the FRED that are soldered to the HPF coil tap.

That explaines exactly position (2) when the pot is not pulled, and also why the bridge coil of the fred is always on when the pot is pulled.

So, I think it should be enough if you'd just look up where on te 5-way black+white of the fred are connected to!

gitarrero · #10 07-03-2004, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by horstausmforst

So, I think it should be enough if you'd just look up where on te 5-way black+white of the fred are connected to!

I've looked it up. The FRED's black and white are connected and soldered to pin #4 of the VLX91's east OTAX side. On the following diagram from Rich's site, it's the right subfigure, right side, pin 4.

Rich · #11 07-03-2004, 10:26 AM

I've seen the same guitar wired 10 different ways from the factory, especially on 24 pole VLX switches. All the wiring would have to match gitarrero's guitar for the location of one wire soldered to be effective.

horstausmforst · #12 07-03-2004, 11:38 AM

That's why I'll never understand those vlx switches...

But, yes, it matched! I'm not joking here, now we're getting closer. All 5 positions are working perfectly now. Thanks gitarrero.

Now I need one last information: a 'map' of what wires are soldered to which contacts of your DPDT switch. Cause pulling the knob now doesn't make any sound difference anymore.

If you look at the switch like this:

Code:

 III
_III_
a b c
-----
1   4
2   5
3   6

On my guitar, the
331 capacitor (the small orange one) is now soldered to (1) and (2),
red cable from volume pot is soldered to (2),
white cable from volume pot is soldered to (b),
223 capacitor (the square green one) is soldered to (a) and ground.

And there are no other, internal connections.

How is it in your axe?

If that works too, come over for a drink

.... I'll also make up a complete wiring diagram, so that future generations don't have that problem anymore, lol.

horstausmforst · #13 07-04-2004, 07:13 AM

Phew, I now came up with this:

connection between volume (c) and tone (b)
connection between volume (b) and tone (5)
331 capacitor between tone (b) and tone (6).

could anyone verify this, especially the connections between tone and volume?

horstausmforst · #14 07-04-2004, 07:28 AM

Woha, those pullswitches are mighty. I'm thinking about hardwiring the High Pass Filter and using the switch to have a true 3-Single-Strat config. But doing it right this time, not like the previous owner.

horstausmforst · #15 07-04-2004, 02:34 PM

Just wanted to let you know that everything worked fine and that my guitar now has all the stock switching abilities. Thanks everyone. I could draw up a wiring scheme if there's interest for it.