Series and parallel with a EP1112 help!

[marianozz]

Hi guys, I have a Tone Zone in the bridge, a Paf Pro in the neck, a EP1112 multipole switch, a DPDT switch, a vol pot and a tone pot and id like to wire the following settings:

pos. 1: Neck in series
pos. 2: Neck in parallel
pos. 3: Neck series + Bridge series
pos. 4: Bridge parallel
pos. 5: Bridge series

So i have normal "les paul" sounds in pos. 1/3/5, with the added parallel modes in 2/4.

And on top of this, id like to be able to split both pups with the single DPDT switch as shown in the 4 conductor pup guide, so i can get JS switching...


Im sure this is possible, but im having a lil trouble figuring out the EP1112, so, i cant make it work


On top of this im gonna wire the stock S1 directly to the vol pot with a switch, so i can add it to any position kinda like the EBMM Morse model, but thats easy :P

So if anyone has a diagram for series and parallel on the 1112, thatd be great

[Scott of Actual Time]

Originally Posted by marianozz

Hi guys, I have a Tone Zone in the bridge, a Paf Pro in the neck, a EP1112 multipole switch
pos. 1: Neck in series
pos. 2: Neck in parallel
pos. 3: Neck series + Bridge series
pos. 4: Bridge parallel
pos. 5: Bridge series

i just posted a link in another thread to a wiring diagram for this scheme. here it is again: http://www.his.com/~sha3u/gear/2hb-parallel-stewmac.jpg

Originally Posted by marianozz

Im sure this is possible, but im having a lil trouble figuring out the EP1112, so, i cant make it work

sounds like you need a voltmeter. i have a cheap one that beeps when the two metal probes are connected. using a voltmeter, you can take any switch and figure out what poles are connected in what positions. you could also e-mail dimarzio's techs and ask them for a picture of the switch pole assignments.

Originally Posted by marianozz

And on top of this, id like to be able to split both pups with the single DPDT switch as shown in the 4 conductor pup guide, so i can get JS switching...

you may have to wire that by running leads from the tabs on the 5-way switch to your DPDT. any switching scheme involving parallel humbuckers is harder to wire in coil cuts because you've got to connect 3 of the 4 humbucker wires to the 5-way switch.

[marianozz]

woot, dimarzio once again answered my email, and gave me a diagram with DPDT switch and all

ill post it once i get home so anyone can have it


thanx Scott, too

[Scott of Actual Time]

Originally Posted by marianozz

ill post it once i get home so anyone can have it

please do--i'd like to check it out.

Originally Posted by marianozz

thanx Scott, too

no problem!

[marianozz]

Here it is man, however it seems wrong... look at the neck pickup, the "green" wire gets the black plastic jacket, and vice versa... the bridge is normal :/

I assume i should pay attention to the wires coming out of the pickup, so both green wires go to ground, but i emailed dimarzio back anyway to be sure...

[Scott of Actual Time]

Originally Posted by marianozz

Here it is man, however it seems wrong... look at the neck pickup, the "green" wire gets the black plastic jacket, and vice versa... the bridge is normal :/

that's not necessarily wrong. the green wire _usually_ goes to ground, but in a complicated scheme like this, it may not work that way.

after taking a look at the diagram, the reason they're grounding the black wire on the neck pickup is because of the orientation they're installing that pickup in--with the cable coming out of the coil closest to the bridge. if the pickup were rotated 180 degrees, the green wire would go to ground.

it will make no difference in the sound.

[marianozz]

What about the "g" (green) wire marked "black" later on?

One more, looking at it it would seem to me that the kill switch would kill the inner coils, right? If so, what poles should i wire to the switch so it kills the outer coils?

[Scott of Actual Time]

Originally Posted by marianozz

What about the "g" (green) wire marked "black" later on?

umm, i don't see a green wire marked black later on.

Originally Posted by marianozz

One more, looking at it it would seem to me that the kill switch would kill the inner coils, right?

look at the other wires coming from each of those inner coils--they're going to the hot output. the switch is not killing the inner coils, it's grounding one end of each inner coil. so the output signal from the other end will be just the inner coil of each humbucker, not both coils of each humbucker. so that switch is giving you the inner coils.

[marianozz]

Yeah, see the "b" coming out of the neck pickup, it later got the green plastic around it...

Anyway, they wrote back with a corrected diagram, and the wire labels were backwards, here it is:




And yeah, now i got the single coil thing, i was thinking that it was sending the whole coil to ground, so the outer one was active, but now i understood it...

Well, i cleaned up the bridge today, so tomorrow ill do all the soldering and put it together


thanx man

[Scott of Actual Time]

Originally Posted by marianozz

Yeah, see the "b" coming out of the neck pickup, it later got the green plastic around it...

oh yeah--you're right.

Originally Posted by marianozz

Anyway, they wrote back with a corrected diagram, and the wire labels were backwards, here it is:

thanks for posting that.

it looks like they've rotated the neck pickup 180 degrees. which will work fine, and the wire colors look correct. but, since the neck pickup is rotated, the big black cable coming out of the pickup in the second diagram shouldn't be in the bottom right-hand corner, like they have it. it should be in the upper left-hand corner. so you might want to install your neck pickup that way.

[marianozz]

Yeah, i noticed that, they rotated the inside of the pickup, but not the wires, or maybe its one of them "R" labeled pickups


anyways, ill do it tomorrow and let you know how it went...