Ice skates?

**jim777** · #1 06-16-2009, 05:12 PM

Calling all Canadians!

Seriously though, I have this crazy jones to go ice skating and don't feel like renting crappy skates somewhere. So, my question is whether or not to buy skates that are the same size as my shoe size, or get a size or 1/2 size larger and wear a few extra pairs of socks. I've been looking at hockeyoverstock for skates, and I'd like to get the size right the first time.

Thanks in advance

**jim777** · #2 06-16-2009, 05:35 PM

Found this, seems pretty complete. Any thoughts fromn those who actually can skate?

gpenguins · #3 06-16-2009, 06:46 PM

Well, I'm not Canadian, but I play one on the internet... I wear a 13 shoe and I've always bought skates that were either 11 1/2 or 12, depending on the manufacturer. The key is the more you use them the more comfortable they are. My current pair is CCM Super Tacks and are, I believe, a size 12. That being said, since my butt is fat and lazy I haven't played hockey in about 5 years, so skating recently consists of taking my nephews out once or twice a year, and my feet hurt like hell for the first 15 or 20 minutes. But, the more you go, the less you'll feel that since they will stay "broken in".

Don't know if that helps, but that's my story.

Go PENGUINS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

gpenguins · #4 06-16-2009, 06:47 PM

Oh, wait, you said from people who "can" skate... nevermind then

Canadian Mark · #5 06-16-2009, 07:08 PM

That article raises some good points. I used to work in a higher end/pro hockey store when I was going to university. We sold Bauer, CCM, Graf, Mission etc.

When I fit skates, I had the customer wear very thin socks. Dress socks actually work well. As mentioned, thick socks and multiple socks allow too much foot movement. Then, I would fit the skates so their toes would almost touch the toe cap when they are standing straight. When the knees push forward to skate, the toes pull back slightly.

Next, I would have them stand on their tip toes. If their heels slid up and down at all, the skate was the wrong application. Ive seen many blisters and heel spurs from skates that slid around on the heels.

The lace eyelets should lace up parallel. If they are bulging in the middle, the skate is probably too narrow. If the eyelets converged in the middle, the skate is probably too wide.

Then, if the customer wanted to pay for it, I would modify the skate with blade alignments (moves the blade under the centre of gravity of the foot to compensate for leg length differences and other anatomical anomilies), heel lifts, punches etc.

One thing to keep in mind is you cannot compare the same size between different manufacturers and even models. CCMs fit different from Bauer which fit different from Graf... CCM's tend to have narrower heels while Bauers tend to have wider heels. Graf 703's fit very different from Graf 707's. You have to try them all on to see which fits best.

The article mentions also the tweaks. Depending on the manufacturer, the skates can be heated, vacuum fit, stretched, punched etc so a new, very stiff pair of skates can feel broken in right from the store.

Even a cheap, properly fit pair of skates will perform better and last longer than a $700 dollar pair of skates.

Btw, that sore foot feeling that gpenguins was describing is a result of the tendons and ligaments in the arches of the feet being stapped down tight with little to no wiggle room. Once the get stretched out a little they loosen up and the pain subsides.

**jim777** · #6 06-17-2009, 09:25 PM

Sounds great guys, thanks a lot. So, is it bad form to bring a brand new pair of skates into a Pro Shop at a rink and get them to tweak them for you, or are you always better off getting them in that ProShop?

Canadian Mark · #7 06-17-2009, 09:38 PM

Some pro shops will tweak outside skates, but charge you for the service. I have tweaked skates purchased elsewhere for a fee. I don't know how much you want to sink into your skates, but some pro-shops will measure you for a pair of custom-builds. These skates were usually $200-300 more than stock skates, but they are the ultimate in fit (probably like a platinum-level setup by Rich).

Fwiw, it wasn't uncommon for me to spend about 3 hours fitting 1 player with skates by the time the tweaking is done (plus any potential follow-up tweaks). Of course, this was usually semi-pros and major junior level players who were in their skates daily for 7-8 months of the year.

brianxtr · #8 06-18-2009, 07:07 AM

i have a skate shop but you have the anser from mark.he's right.nothing to say more.
but try a few and read about it so that you know the differences between the models.
and then feel it yourself.have fun

**jim777** · #9 06-18-2009, 10:20 AM

I don't mind paying more in a pro shop and getting everything in the same place, I just don't want to spend 400 on a pair of skates in a a shop that I could get for 200 on the net. But I'm obviously wary of getting a pair of skates over the internet now. I guess I'll have to find a Modells or something and try on a few and see what comes close to fitting right out of the box and go from there, so I have an idea of what I'm looking for and can afford.

Thanks for all the help guys

gpenguins · #10 06-18-2009, 11:26 AM

Honestly, what I did was find a pair that I liked at a shop then get them online at the end of the season when they were way deep discounted. I still bought some stuff (shoulder pads, sticks) at the shop because I didn't want to completely waste the guy's time. Plus I usually bring them to the same place for sharpening, too.

Brian's right, though - have fun. I love researching and trying on new skates (and all hockey equipment), it's really cool to find out the technology changes they go through. Unfortunately, even though mine are like 5 or 6 years old, they're still pretty "new", so I can't really justify getting a new pair - that money has to go to more guitars - so I don't even want to tempt myself these days.

Canadian Mark · #11 06-18-2009, 01:47 PM

If you do go the path of getting something online, and you want to help the break-in period a little, you can do a couple of things (assuming the model of skate is compatible).

The riskier and more thorough of the options is to heat the skates in a CONVECTION oven for around 3 minutes. Then immediately put them on and lace them up and allow them to cool for around 5 minutes (without walking around, just sit down and relax). I can't exactly recall the temperature to heat them at (brianxtr, do you know this?) so, you might want to experiment starting with low temps and work your way up. The skates shouldn't be too hot to handle with bare hands when they come out of the oven. As well, not all manufacturers will allow heating to all their models.

A 2nd option is to use a heat gun to heat specific tighter spots while they are laced up on your feet. Keep the heat gun moving so heat doesn't build up too much in any 1 spot.

The old method of wearing the skates in a tub of hot water is a bad idea as the water will break down the skates quickly. Also, when you are done wearing them, take out the insoles and allow the skates time to dry thoroughly. This will prevent the rivets and staples from rusting out of the foot bed and the adhesives from breaking down.

Edit - I forgot to mention that trying on new, cold skates can be misleading, especially for higher end skates. On better quality skates, there is usually more padding, gel (or whatever type of foot molding system the manufacturer uses) in the heels of the skates. This will prevent the heels from sliding back as far as they will once the skate is broken in and molded. So, if the skate feels 'just right' when it is new and cold, it might feel too large once the skate molds to your heel and your heel seats further back in the boot.

Things that I would watch for (indicators of quality) would be stainless steel blades (as opposed to carbon steel), and a composite material (like surlyn) foot bed as opposed to carboard or fibreboard. The stainless steel blades are harder to sharpen properly, but take a better edge and last longer while the composite foot beds will not break down and have staple and rivet pull-through like carboard does.

**jim777** · #12 06-19-2009, 11:47 AM

Any brands or lines I should just completely ignore? I'm guessing the CCM Vectors are good, are the Tour Code series skates any good? I'm guessing the 'must avoid' list is shorter than the 'good' list.

nsabino · #13 06-19-2009, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jim777

Any brands or lines I should just completely ignore? I'm guessing the CCM Vectors are good, are the Tour Code series skates any good? I'm guessing the 'must avoid' list is shorter than the 'good' list.

CCM's usually fia 1 1/2 sizes down.. but not only the size matters, the shape of your foot is also important when choosing a skate, so my 2 cents areas follows: CCM Vectors thin profile foot, Nike/Bauer Vapor line thin profile, Nike/bauer 0ne 95 and other one's medium to wide profile and RBK wide profile. P.S the above mentioned usually fit 1 1/2 sizes down from your shhoe size. You don't want loose skates a snug fit is the best, watch for your instep. Google how to properly fit skates and you should get alot of info.Try to buy from a place that will alow you to send them back, try icewarehouse.com or inlinewarehouse.com, I always buy from them great people..

Good luck and have fun skating
Nelson

**jim777** · #14 06-22-2009, 10:48 PM

My brother bought several new pairs a few years ago (he buys stuff on sale whether he needs it or not sometimes) so I have an NOS pair of CCM 852s inbound totally free

I wear a size 11 shoe and the skates are size 10, but I'm not playing hockey in them (just doing laps at the rink, basically) so I think I'll be good to go. He wears Flite Helix skates, so he never wore the CCMs out. How is that for a happy coincidence? LOL
I get them Saturday, and I'm hitting the rink Sunday. Hopefully I won't break anything

Canadian Mark · #15 06-23-2009, 01:43 PM

852's were solid skates. They should serve you well. The length sizing should work well for you (you don't need to get ridiculously undersized skates like Chris Chelios). The width sizing might be off (CCM's common widths are C, D, E) but for casual recreation skating, they shouldn't be too much concern.

You can also heat the 852's in the manner I mentioned in one of my previous posts with no worry. Actually, (if it's the year models I'm thinking of), they will be covered in a silver kevlar, which can take some additional stretching and heating compared to regular lighter denier nylon covering.