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EC Strat: Need help with trem

1K views 5 replies 4 participants last post by  jb4674 
#1 ·
I recently acquired an Eric Clapton strat and absolutely love the neck and pickups. The trem features 5 springs and the wooden block. I'm trying to see if I like it better with tremolo, so I've removed the wooden block. I am backing off the tremolo claw cavity springs so I can lower the string pitch, but have a question: the six screws that mount the trem to the body are screwed in almost all the way to the base of the trem plate. Do I need to back these off a bit to prevent any damage to the trem or body, or do I have enough clearance with this stock setup?
 
#2 ·
Depends on how high you want to float the trem. As a rule, I screw them down until they hit the plate, starting with the "e" strings and moving inward from there. But if the screws are down too low (or way too high), they will certainly effect the ability to work the trem. Trial and error is in your future...
 
#6 ·
I think for most strats, Fender calls for 1/8" clearance from the bottom of the trem to the body (on the back of the trem).

Here's a link to the service diagrams:

http://www.fender.com/support/articles/stratocaster-service-diagrams

Here's a link to their Strat setup page:

http://www.fender.com/support/articles/stratocaster-setup-guide

And this is an excerpt of the same page covering the tremolo setup:

TREMOLO
Stratocaster guitars can have four distinctive types of bridges. The most well-known bridge is the vintage-style "synchronized" tremolo. The other three are the American Series bridge, which is a modern-day two-pivot bridge; the non-tremolo hardtail bridge; and a locking tremolo, such as the American Deluxe or Floyd Rose® locking tremolos. If you have a non-tremolo "hardtail" bridge, proceed to "Intonation (Roughing it out)." If you have a locking tremolo bridge, click here.

First, remove the tremolo back cover. Check your tuning. For a vintage-style tremolo bridge, a great way to enhance its performance is to pull the bridge back flush with the body using the tremolo arm. Then loosen all six screws located at the front edge of the bridge plate, raising them so that they all measure approximately 1/16" (1.6 mm) above the top of the bridge plate. Then tighten the two outside screws back down until they're flush with the top of the bridge plate. The bridge will now pivot on the outside screws, leaving the four inside screws in place for bridge stability. For a two-pivot model such as the American Series bridge, use your tremolo arm to pull the bridge back flush with the body and adjust the two pivot screws to the point where the tremolo plate sits entirely flush at the body (not lifted at the front or back of the plate).

Allowing the bridge to float freely (no tension on the tremolo arm) using the claw screws in the tremolo cavity, adjust the bridge to your desired angle-Fender spec is a 1/8" (3.2 mm) gap at rear of bridge. You'll need to retune periodically to get the right balance between the strings and the springs. If you prefer a bridge flush to the body, adjust spring tension to equal string tension, while the bridge rests on the body (you may want to put an extra 1/2 turn to each claw screw to ensure that the bridge remains flush to the body during string bends). Caution: Do not over-tighten the springs, as this can put unnecessary tension on the arm during tremolo use. Finally, you may wish to apply a small dab of Chapstick® or Vaseline® at the pivot contact points of the bridge for very smooth operation.

I hope this helps.

Jimmy:smile:
 
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