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LNG Clone build thread

6K views 36 replies 19 participants last post by  Paul1983 
#1 · (Edited)
LNG Clone build thread with video!

Hey everyone,

Over the past couple of years I have contemplated building my own LNG, not simply because I love the guitar, but also as a challenge to myself. I needed something to kick me in the ass and get me going, and this has been an excellent project to help me do just that. I have seen a number of build threads around, but I wanted to do something a little different, so I'm producing and filming a mini-series based on my experiences building this guitar. I have put together a short trailer for it () and I hope you all check it out and give it a thumbs up! Thanks for all of your help throughout this process, and I'll have lots more questions along the way!

- Trailer

- Episode 1 - Parts & Hardware

- Episode 2 - Prime & Paint Part 1

- Episode 3 - Lions Claw & Headstock
 
#21 ·
Alright, I have encountered some problems with the paint application. See Photos below...










I'm really struggling with painting the lions claw. I am resolving to the fact that I will have to sand that entire area again and repaint it. I took every precaution to ensure the entire area was taped properly and you can see from the photos, the two colors are bleeding together at the edges. I'm really bummed about this setback. Any advice? I will be giving you mad props in my next video!

-Paul
 
#22 ·
This is purely on my assumption you are using laquer...


For the Lions Claw :
This is why major guitar manufacturers use polyester instead of laquer.

Laquers "burn in", theres no way to avoid this effect. Use enamel or laquer the whole thing green, then hand paint some pink in there.


For the headstock ->

You recoated too fast, or sprayed the base coat too thick. Let the white cure all the way (this can take a while), then do nice, thin coats. "crackles" appear when the base coat isnt cured. "Wrinkles" occur when the lower coat dries faster then the top coat (or spraying laquer over enamel for instance). The paint is physically shrinking, causing the splits.
 
#26 ·
I like the idea of doing the clear coat and then applying the pink separately. Anyone else tried this? I actually attempted doing this by hand after I first sprayed it, it looked like the paint was building up too quickly, so i just sprayed some paint in a clean tub and used a brush, but the paint was too watery when applied in this manner.

I am using the same brand of paints, spray can Rustoleum brand.

In regards to the headstock, the white was not lifted before i put the green on. But even when I applied I kinda thought I may have put too much primer on beforehand, and that's why when I sanded it down the bare wood is exposed. It mustn't have dried long enough. Ahh well, no a big deal, but how should I fix it? Sand the entire headstock again (remove the green), prime again, let dry, then apply the green again?

Another thing, I am sanding the final coat of green before I put the clear on. You can see in one of the photos that the green kinda has a texture to it in some spots, this is mainly due to the environment I'm painting in and partially because I wanted to build this in an environment that is similar to what most people would have access to.
 
#27 ·
The only advise I can offer is ,dont use rattle cans.
I did a clone build a while ago , I have also painted a couple off LNG bodies, also done a few DY.
I usually paint the entire body, clear it and then paint in the lions claw by hand. the LNG is a pain as you need to use thick paint for the lions claw or undercoat it in white and then paint on your pink.

http://www.jemsite.com/forums/f15/lng-clone-110500.html
 
#28 ·
This is the problem I'm having! The pink paint is too watery, any recommendations for a replacement? I'm actually happy with the green, and the pink as well, but its just a bitch to apply.

Thanks for the advice, but I'm past the point of not using rattle cans. It's already been done, looking for help in correcting the problems :)
 
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