Hi, I'm in the process of refinishing my RG7420. This is my second time doing this but my first time attempting to use a solid color as the finish.
I'm just curious what type of spray paint/brand I should be using. I plan on painting the body and headstock white and obviously using some type of clear coat.
Any suggestions would be appreciated. I'm just about ready to begin the painting process.
if your using rattle cans.. I prefer Laquer based.. And then a lot of laquer clear coat.
But laquer really never cures, it dries but it doesnt cure fully, so you will have to let it sit for a while before you buff it out.. The longer the better.
You can use Acrylic Enamel as well but I prefer laquer.
if your using rattle cans.. I prefer Laquer based.. And then a lot of laquer clear coat.
But laquer really never cures, it dries but it doesnt cure fully, so you will have to let it sit for a while before you buff it out.. The longer the better.
You can use Acrylic Enamel as well but I prefer laquer.
Great! I will be using rattle cans unfornately. I'll probably go with the laquer then. How long would you suggest I wait before buffing? A week....more?
Just by looking at the pics here, im pretty tempted to buy this book... its kinda a PITA tho, cause of shipping and all, since im not even in the US and i hate digital books... but still
I bought the PYOG book. Some useful info. Not a lot that I didn't know from doing bodywork and scale modeling over the years. However, if you're new to it, it's quite useful. A lot of the same info gets repeated as it covers painting several different guitars and goes over the complete process for each guitar.
Here's a couple I am working on. Same process described in the ebook for the most part.
The maple with mahogony stripe guitar is now in the curing process awaiting buffing/polishing. The other is having the black basecoats applied. I've actually started a third, an RG570 that I am converting to a JEM style with an ash top. It looks great. I'll be selling the two above but the JEM conversion will be mine.
Cool, someone who bought it ... what do you think, is it possible for someone that never painted a guitar (or anything significant) to have a good result with cans and that book?
Yeah. Be aware, there will be some initial investment if you don't have some of the supplies, like sealer, sandpaper, paint, putty knife, etc.
My only comment, he hight recommends sanding or paint stripper. I've had less than great success with paint strippers on the poly finishes used on most new guitars. Sanding can cause waves, etc. in the body. Personally, I recommend using a heat gun to stip the old finish. Just do it outdoors because the fumes can get pretty bad.
I'd also read through the book a couple of times before you do it. Heck, may even be a good idea to find/buy a scrap guitar to practice on.
Yeah, i have a a beat up jackson that i thought of when considering the book..., hell, i might even try a couple pieces of scrap wood to try stuff out... :lol:
Ill take the plunge with the book then, sounds like nice info... thanx
Hmm, very curious to see how this book turns out as wel
I've repainted a JEM (fluor yellow that was painted black all the way, even the back of the neck). My 2 main problems were :
the laquer really needs a lot of time to dry and harden. Normally, guitars after being painted in the factory they go in an oven to make the paint harden if I'm correct. even with clear coat not hardened... very vulnerable.
you really need a 100% (not 90%) dust free environment, otherwise you get all kinds glitches in your finish. etc etc...
if I found a total ruined paintjob-guitar I would be happy to re-try it becasue it's a lot of fun, your own paint, so curious to hear about the book. but otherwise I would really consider handing it over to a pro.
One other thing to be aware of, the foam and rubber used on guitar stands can cause problems with laquer paint. There are chemicals in the rubber/foam that can eat at the paint.
Yep, thats true, I have a carvin from '87 with the original paint job on it, lacquer, I guess the guy who had it before me had it hung on a wall b/c when I got it there were no marks on the bottom of it, or anywhere else, I sat it on a guitar stand beside my bed about 4 months ago, and it has sat there every since......picked it up last week and it had two BAD indentations and dull spots on the bottom of it where the rubber arms on the guitar stand ate into the finish........makes me so mad. I HATE LACQUER, its so junky, theres absolutely NOTHING good about it in my opinion or anything that makes it better than a Urethane anyways. I don't know how I'm gonna fix this spot.....maybe I can buff it out, who knows......its pretty bad.
to the original poster...one more point to remember is that to make sure you don't neglect the edges of the guitar once you start laying the clear on it because when you start wet sanding that thing the edges have the most possibility to be sanded through
good topic!
i'm trying to refinish an RG with rattle cans and the color is coming out foggy (i read that is a moisture issue) but i took a clean cloth and found that LOTS of elbow grease starts bringing back the shine (metallic blue).
should i buff lighty with an attachment on a multi-speed drill or will the clear-coat fix this fogging? (i would guess it wouldn't if it is a moisture issue)
i'm sure i'm using the wrong paint (rustoleum) but they didn't have any decent colors in the other brands.
On the fogging issue, you may also be applying it to think. Apply paint lightly allowing plenty time for each coat to dry before applying the next.
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