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post #1 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-08-2011, 03:35 AM Thread Starter
 
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jem fret board oil advice

Hi Guys

Just wondered should I be oiling the fret boards of my jem (2009) and my jem 10 anniversary which I recently bought (the fret buzz has settled down now)

I have the dunlop system 65 maintenance kit so should I use the oil in this kit, does it get under the inlays ?? Someone mentioned that the fret boards can dry out and to oil them sparingly maybe once a year.

Any advice appreciated

Regards

Bob
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post #2 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-08-2011, 03:56 AM
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

Some people like lemon oil, some like bore oil, some like other stuff. This gets asked quite a bit, so try the search feature to read some previous, and heated debates on this topic.



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post #3 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-08-2011, 04:23 AM
 
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

i do not put anything on my guitar fretboards. do not care what anyone says. fretboard is a no go zone.
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post #4 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 12:55 AM
 
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

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Originally Posted by metalupya View Post
i do not put anything on my guitar fretboards. do not care what anyone says. fretboard is a no go zone.
I seriously hope you're kidding....
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post #5 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 01:03 AM
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

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Originally Posted by Metlupass2 View Post
I seriously hope you're kidding....
He HAS to be joking.



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post #6 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 01:18 AM
 
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

I've been doing a LOT of research. Turns out those gimmick fret board treatments are nothing but mineral oil. Makes it nice and shiny for a bit, but doesnt do anything to protect the wood.

Mineral oil sits on top and doesnt soak into the wood.

Lemon oil is highly acidic and can damage wood.



Linseed oil and tung oil are the best bets. Some others work well too, Im still researching
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post #7 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 01:40 AM
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

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Originally Posted by linuxpenguin View Post

Linseed oil and tung oil are the best bets. Some others work well too, Im still researching
You might as well just pour some of that epoxy on it if you want to do permanent things. Tung and linseed are finishes far more than oils. The beauty of "mostly mineral oil" is it's not penetrating too far, and goes away, till you want to do it again.

There is nothing wrong with wood you don't put anything on. You put plenty of your own oil on regularly as you play it, unless you're an obsessive washer like Eric Johnson.

Oil to me is something I'll use to make the wood pretty, once, when there is no oil on the wood. I'm not one that believes your wood needs anything more than you playing it to keep it well covered in fingerprints.
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post #8 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 02:03 AM
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

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Originally Posted by Rich View Post
You might as well just pour some of that epoxy on it if you want to do permanent things. Tung and linseed are finishes far more than oils. The beauty of "mostly mineral oil" is it's not penetrating too far, and goes away, till you want to do it again.

There is nothing wrong with wood you don't put anything on. You put plenty of your own oil on regularly as you play it, unless you're an obsessive washer like Eric Johnson.

Oil to me is something I'll use to make the wood pretty, once, when there is no oil on the wood. I'm not one that believes your wood needs anything more than you playing it to keep it well covered in fingerprints.
What about guitars that don't get any real playing time? With a 2 year old running round the house most of my nicer guitars live in their cases. Any advice for what to use on them?

I've been using lemon oil for years with little negative effects, but wouldn't want to keep using it if it's destroying my favourite guitars!
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post #9 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 02:09 AM
 
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

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Originally Posted by jono View Post
What about guitars that don't get any real playing time? With a 2 year old running round the house most of my nicer guitars live in their cases. Any advice for what to use on them?

I've been using lemon oil for years with little negative effects, but wouldn't want to keep using it if it's destroying my favourite guitars!
I cant say the "detstructive" properties of lemon oil. Its Ph is ~3.5..... thats all I can say for now.



rich -> I agree with you on 99.99% of things, but not this. Oil is meant to protect and keep the wood from getting damaged. Mineral oil provides limited protection. The other natural oils are much more protective.

BLO isnt "permanent" by any means. Tung oil is a little more so I guess. Dutch oil is pretty much enamel paint ........

Im still reseearching of course, I'll be sure to keep you guys in mind.


and rich, linseed oil is CHEAPER then mineral oil...
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post #10 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 02:23 AM
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

The used to use linseed oil to finish furniture. And I used tung oil on my waterbed. They're finishes, they dry completely into a hard surface.

Nothing is damaging wood. Unfininshed wood that was cared for has survived millenia. It doesn't just disentigrate over time because you didn't wipe something on it.

Somebody do a search and find out what oils Stradivarius used on the fingerboards of his violins. I'll bet it's none.

Lemon oil is just too acidic for me, and anything long term is very agressive on frets of case queens because it permeates the whole micro atmosphere the frets sit in for years, even after it's "evaporated"
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post #11 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 02:27 AM
 
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

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Originally Posted by Rich View Post
The used to use linseed oil to finish furniture. And I used tung oil on my waterbed. They're finishes, they dry completely into a hard surface.

Nothing is damaging wood. Unfininshed wood that was cared for has survived millenia. It doesn't just disentigrate over time because you didn't wipe something on it.

Somebody do a search and find out what oils Stradivarius used on the fingerboards of his violins. I'll bet it's none.

Lemon oil is just too acidic for me, and anything long term is very agressive on frets of case queens because it permeates the whole micro atmosphere the frets sit in for years, even after it's "evaporated"

like I said, still doing research

most of those stradivarius violins were played enough to have enought human oil deposited, but I bet they've been cleaned and well maintained at this point........ Ill check!
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post #12 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 02:43 AM
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

Funny how interesting it is looking at other disciplines. Not once does it say anything about putting anything on the fingerboard wood.

Violin maintanence

How to care for your Violin, Viola, Cello or Bass


A stringed instrument requires an extraordinary amount of care and attention. It is composed of materials that are constantly changing, is subject to forces of many pounds per square inch by the pressure of the strings, and spends much of its life in perpetual vibration. Over the several hundred year life of an instrument in normal use some structural changes will inevitably happen. Here are several things you can do to ease your instrument's life with you.
I TEMPERATURE AND HUMIDITY: Changes in temperature and humidity wreak havoc on a stringed instrument. Avoid any sudden change. Keep the instrument away from direct sunlight. If the case is cold, wait at least 15 minutes before opening it. In general, avoid any and all extremes in temperature and humidity.

(1) Always use a Dampit whenever the heater is on in your home, or when it is in a dry region. Take the dampit out every day: during this time, soak the dampit in water for 20 seconds, squeeze out the excess water in a towel, and put the dampit back in the instrument. Do this twice a day if the temperature outside is below zero. If you do not do this you are increasing the likelihood of cracks and openings.

(2) Do not store the instrument near radiators or heat vents. If you have a room that is humidified, that would be the best room to store it in.

(3) NEVER, NEVER, NEVER transport or leave your instrument in a car trunk-- in cold weather the instrument will get cold very quickly; in warm weather the instrument may get very hot causing the glue joints to come apart and varnish to soften and stick to your case.

(4) For the same reasons as above, NEVER leave an instrument in an unattended car. Most insurance companies do not cover theft or damage to an instrument in an unattended car. ALSO-- IT SEEMS THAT 95% OF ALL INSTRUMENT THEFTS ARE INSTRUMENTS TAKEN FROM A CAR OR CAR TRUNK....BE NICE TO YOUR INSTRUMENT, TAKE IT WITH YOU

II VARNISH: Although the varnish looks hard and impermeable, it is not! Avoid touching the varnish at all. Fingerprints could leave permanent marks. Do not leave the instrument on a hard surface, hard surfaces and sharp corners will scratch and chip the varnish.

III POLISHING

(1) Use only "W.E. Hill and Sons Varnish Cleaner" to clean and polish fine instruments. Other polishes or cleaners may damage your instruments varnish. Use polish sparingly, but clean and polish the instrument at least once a month.

(2) Never let rosin build up on top or underneath the strings. Clean the rosin off before you put the instrument away.

IV CRACKS AND OPENINGS: Despite your best efforts, cracks sometimes develop and/or the top or back pull away from the ribs. Bring your instrument in for repair as soon as possible. Neglecting cracks and openings can lead to far more serious problems.

V BRIDGES

(1) Your instrument might need a summer bridge and a winter bridge. Alternatively, let us set your string heights in the spring or fall. This will probably keep your string heights within a reasonable range. Instruments swell and shrink depending on temperature and humidity. To maintain proper string height a shorter bridge is required in summer than is required in the winter. Please bring your instrument in during these seasons so we can check the string height for you.

(2) CHECK YOUR BRIDGE AND STRAIGHTEN IT OFTEN! The side of the bridge facing the tailpiece should be perpendicular to the tangent. (the top of the instrument is curved, the tangent is a straight line that intersects only one point (where the bridge rests) on that curve). Tuning the strings generally pulls the bridge towards the fingerboard. If the bridge moves off the perpendicular it will warp, and shortly there after it will break. Check to make sure the bridge is perpendicular to the tangent of the arch at that point at least twice per week. Have your teacher check it also if you are taking lessons. If we have not shown you, or if you would like further instruction on this maneuver, please ask us!

(3) Lubricate the string grooves in the bridge by rubbing a soft pencil in the grooves, as this will decrease the amount of friction, and therefore minimize bridge displacement.

VI SOUND-POST: The sound-post is the small dowel of wood inside the violin near the treble foot of the bridge. The sound-post controls most of your instruments sound quality, balance, and projection. If your instrument is having trouble in these areas, it is probable that we can help it with a sound-post adjustment. Also, the same swelling and shrinking that necessitates a summer and winter bridge also necessitates a summer and winter sound-post. We will check the sound-post whenever we check the bridge.

VII FINGERBOARD AND NUT: Lubricate the nut grooves in the same way as the bridge is lubricated. Fingerboards develop bumps and grooves from string and finger wear. These can be smoothed out in our shop. If the strings wear far into the nut, the open strings will buzz, at which point we will replace the nut.

VIII STRINGS: Change the strings at least once per year. Strings break, and usually at the most inconvenient time. It is a good idea to have a spare set with you at a concert or a recital. We recommend all the strings that we sell.

IX PEGS: Warm humid weather will make pegs sticky. Lubricate the pegs with "Hill Peg Compound". Dry, cold weather will make pegs slip. Use blackboard chalk to make the pegs hold firmer.

NEVER LEAVE AN INSTRUMENT WHERE IT CAN BE STEPPED ON, SAT UPON, OR KNOCKED TO THE FLOOR!

X Please insure your instrument, to cover fire, theft, and/or damage anywhere the instrument goes. Make sure the policy extends outside your home for school, concerts, and travel.
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post #13 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 02:49 AM
 
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

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Originally Posted by Rich View Post
Funny how interesting it is looking at other disciplines. Not once does it say anything about putting anything on the fingerboard wood.

Violin maintanence


II VARNISH: Although the varnish looks hard and impermeable, it is not! Avoid touching the varnish at all. Fingerprints could leave permanent marks. Do not leave the instrument on a hard surface, hard surfaces and sharp corners will scratch and chip the varnish.

III POLISHING

(1) Use only "W.E. Hill and Sons Varnish Cleaner" to clean and polish fine instruments. Other polishes or cleaners may damage your instruments varnish. Use polish sparingly, but clean and polish the instrument at least once a month.
l.
what do you think this is??? its implying theres a varnish over the wood... not the same as oil finishes dude.
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post #14 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 02:54 AM
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

I think we should all know violins are finished with varnishes. The fingerboards aren't.

What is interesting is all the rest, like how they deal with lubrication and atmosphere.
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post #15 of 26 (permalink) Old 06-10-2011, 04:30 AM
 
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Re: jem fret board oil advice

Quote:
Originally Posted by Metlupass2 View Post
I seriously hope you're kidding....
2 JS guitars, 1 Universe, 3 Jems and an ESP. not one has had anything put on the fretboard. have no problems with the fretboards.
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