The one with the "small" 2CM repair? Small?
TECH - All guitars will need a thick neck shim if you want decent pull-up range on the bridge, or low action. The action is a little over 2mm and the trems have very little pullup range. A 1/2 to 1 step at most, and if you roll the action down any lower it will interfere with dive range also. The radius of the trem and nut need to be matched to the fretboard, some are further out than others. A good percentage will also have the trem offset too far to the bass side and need it centered to eliminate interference with the side of the rout. I have had 2 so far that have worn through the cosmo plating on the trem at the contact spot and have centered 7 of them overall [several guitars were requested untouched or I probably would have had to do them all]. The nut radius and the bridge radius are far too flat and need to be corrected to get these guitars playable. The nut mount bolt compression washers are on the wood side of the hole and need to be swapped around and put between the bolt and flat washer. I have loosened all contact point of the pickguard to the swirl and freed any contact to stop the clear from acid etching the guards [this is a small issue with all swirls]. All of this plus a complete setup including strobe intonation is done with any guitar purchased below.
You will find black touch ups in the black fields on most of the guitars if you look hard enough. Even the show guitar had them and I never saw them until the 30th time I actually looked at it. I have pointed out the ones present on the guitars for sale below, but if I didn't you would probably never know they were there as they blend right into the swirl itself.
One guitar came in with adhesive trails on the back covers from the plastic being removed. The dry adhesive residue on the covers is usually a sign of older material, and upon close examination there are light trails of adhesive on most of the covers, but for the most part, look clean. You can see this worst case example here and here.
DISCLAIMER - Sugi covers are extremely close tolerance, in fact so close, some may not want to come off at all. I experienced this problem with the JSBDG's, but with these MC's, the problem may be amplified. The bond between the clear and the swirl itself has never been good on MC's because the swirl can't be roughed up to give the clear some tooth. If I am to set up your guitar, I CANNOT BE HELD RESPONSIBLE if the edge of the trem cavity against the cover chips when removing the cover. Another client had a flake of paint come off when he tried to carefully remove his cover [guitar purchased elsewhere]. UPDATE - After removing several covers it wasn't a problem for me. I remove the screws from both covers, the bottom curved end of the control cover is easy to get a fingernail under, and with that cover off you have access to the side of the trem cover. Work it up gently and it's comes off without issue. I had 2 that needed to be bent up in the middle to get them out and have sanded the covers down for perfect fit without the need to fiddle with the control cover. Also done with any guitar purchased below. It should be noted you want to be very careful working around the trem or control cavity as the routs were re-routed again after they were clear coated exposing the bare edge of clear on both the back side of the body and inside of the rout. I brushed the inside edge with a finger pulling a spring off and the clear breaks loose from the swirl very easily. You do not want that to happen on the back of the body!!
I should update the update, I've had a couple absolutely peel big chips off the back getting the covers off.
IMO Ibanez should have had Sugi made 100 new necks with correct radius. Nick told me they built them to the spec Ibanez gave them. Whatever the story the fret radius is probably around 300mm, thereabouts.