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High e string intonation very low

3K views 24 replies 7 participants last post by  Addy 
#1 ·
Intonation very low on the high e string, furthermore, string action is also very low on that string.
Is the intonation problem a result of the low string action, it is also buzzing a lot?
Should I raise the bridge on the treble side. I have the original edge bridge. Its on a Genesis rg550
 
#3 ·
Fret buzz at that end of the neck suggests insufficient relief, but if it is only the high E that would be odd- twisted neck or a fret issue somewhere. What is your action like at the 12th fret?

Sort that before getting into the intonation. If fretted notes are flat you need to move the saddle towards the neck.
 
#4 ·
Fret buzz at that end of the neck suggests insufficient relief, but if it is only the high E that would be odd- twisted neck or a fret issue somewhere. What is your action like at the 12th fret?

Sort that before getting into the intonation. If fretted notes are flat you need to move the saddle towards the neck.
About 1 mm on 12th fret high e string and almost 2 mm on low e string

It is very strange, I bought the guitar a few years back, and ended up not playing it. But I vaugely remember lowering the bridge slighly to get a lower string action. And I am 100% certain that I did not do anything with saddles. So how can intionation all of a sudden go without me changing the saddles?
 
#6 ·
Definitely worth checking this..
I had a JS 1000 that buzzed only on the high e.
Drove me mad for ages. I got my fret rocker out, no high frets.. Raised the bridge. Still awful.
Was starting to get paranoid that my neck had a twist as the relief was fine everywhere else.

Turned out it was the way the string was resting in the locking part of the trem.
And as soon as I changed the string the issue just disappeared and never returned.
 
#11 ·
Got a correct allen wrench, raised the bridge where action now is about 1,5 mm around 12th fret. If I raise it more action will be too high on the high frets.

However...

It is still buzzing all over the fretboard on the high e string and intonation is still way off on high e string

Very annoying.

I was going to loosen the neck a little, but notice it is not an allen wrench but seem to need something else?
 
#18 ·
Yes, I know, I appreciate your and everyone elses help!

Yes still buzzing

And now I added more relief to the neck so now the action on the unwounded high e string is closer to 2mm on 12th fret and still buzzing on fret 1 to 7.
Not nearly as bad as before, but still.
That action is very high and it should not buzz on any frets from there.

Take a bank card, or any similar card that is hard plastic. Place it covering the 7/8/9 frets (on edge) and try to see if the card will rock side to side over the 8th fret. Or any fret. Either your 8th fret is coming loose and is way to high, or you have an issue with the Nut, or Bridge. Is my guess.

Also, if you have put more relief in the neck just to try fix the buzz and it did not work, get it set back to an "in spec" position. Try not to compound the problem by getting everything else out of whack.
Not sure I understand correctly but I put the card over 7/8/9 frets and it seems like the card is flush to the frets, so no problem there as far I can tell, I could be wrong though.

Yes, I think I will tighten the neck a bit again. But the buzz got slightly less with the current relief. But action too high for my taste.
 
#19 ·
Did you ever try another string? I fought a string buzz problem years ago on an old Les Paul that turned out to be the high e string having a "bend" in it. Like maybe one of my kids knocked it over onto something with a hard corner or something. Was easy to see by sighting down the string, like when you visually check neck relief, etc... Good luck!
 
#21 · (Edited)
I will try to change string as well. Just wanted to try other things first.
User ibaraki_gaijin who wrote earlier in this thread had a similar experience. Gives me hope!

Did you ever figure this out? If it is not a high fret, the next logical cause would be a neck with back bow. Does your neck have the proper relief? This is not measured simply be tracking the string height at the 12th fret.

Set your neck relief then worry about the string height. If you are not sure how to do this there are plenty of guides on YT.
To be honest, there are many ways how to set the correct relief, it is somewhat comfusing.

Back bow, you mean neck bow is convex rather than concave? That is what I did now by loosen the neck a little. But string height a little too high now.
 
#20 ·
Did you ever figure this out? If it is not a high fret, the next logical cause would be a neck with back bow. Does your neck have the proper relief? This is not measured simply be tracking the string height at the 12th fret.


Set your neck relief then worry about the string height. If you are not sure how to do this there are plenty of guides on YT.
 
#22 ·
The neck needs to be in a concave position when strung up to pitch. You can check this by fretting the low E string at the 1st fret, then at the last fret. You should then be able to push the string down towards the 8th fret and have enough movement where you can sense the string is above the fret. We are talking about .5mm or so. This can vary, but at least .5mm is a good starting point. The truss rod adjustments should not be used to alter string height. The change to the string height is a byproduct of truss rod adjustments. I hope this makes sense.

Once the truss rod is setup, make sure the guitar is strung to pitch. Then confirm the bridge is level with the body of the guitar. I have never tuned an "Edge" Trem, but have done the lo-pro and Edge II. The Edge II just needs the top of the base plate to be level with the guitar. The lo-pro has an angled top plate. To help with alignment there are tabs on the side of the base plate that help with alignment. I have no idea on the "edge", which is what I think is on your guitar. Use the Trem springs on the back to make adjustments and get the bridge level. After every adjustment, you have to re-tune the guitar and start over.

Once the truss rod is setup correctly and the bridge is level you can then deal with the action. Measure the action and make adjustments at the bridge posts.
 
#23 ·
Sorry for late reply

This all makes a lot of sense

So first neck
Then check proper bridge position, in this case the "edge" model. Need to find out correct position.
Then at last, adjust bridge posts, up or down.

Thanks alot, will let you know how it goes
 
#24 ·
How wore out are the fret past the 7th fret . If the frets are wore and low and the action is set for the fun frets 12 to 24 then the low frets us shredders might not use as much will be taller causing a action issue or a complet fret relevel will fix. You could just lower the frets 7 and below but I would relevel. Lets cancel out your potential fix,s see what your left with to better understand if you need a full professional fret set up. You tried neck relief , this should help but didnt fix it. Raise the action with neck releif. Most people dont do this but wood expands contracts meaning your neck changes form when your house changes tempurature requiring truss rod adjustment a few times a year to keep consistent shape year round. If relief and trem height action adjustment dont fix it then you will need a total fret relevel to fix your problem. Unless you have a twisted neck and then you can have a experienced professional level your frets customed to suit your necks warped or twisted neck profile as a work around to keep you playing without doing wood working. But if you want to love your guitar best you can you need a pro to rip out all frets re sand the neck to its original radious do same for locking nut , then re fret the guitar. This does not fix the guitar the neck will always be mishaped but you will be able to play it ,and if you cant now you will never know the warp is even there. As far as intionation goes , Flat saddle needs to go foward , just follow the tuner and get as many frets in tune as possible rechecking all frets each new frets to not undo your work. Start with 12 15 17 19 when those are done good job you likely wont get them all but people do say they do and honestly I think there bragging about something thats not possible
 
#25 ·
Frets are not wore out at all. Almost new.

I set the neck relief and changed strings, did not change bridge position yet.

It actually is pretty ok now, not perfect but ok.

I think the string was a big reason why it buzzed a lot and was flat in pitch, as many of you suggested.

I am good for now and thanks all for the great help!
 
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