NGD and locking stud question - Jemsite
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-18-2015, 03:20 PM Thread Starter
 
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NGD and locking stud question

Hey guys, new here. Just bought a 2003 Prestige RG2550EX. I'm loving it so far (even the IBZ pups...LOVE them) but the only "complaint" I have is that it returns ever so flat/sharp. I'm going to attribute this to the fact that the Edge Pro doesn't have locking studs because it's setup very well. I read the info at ibanezrules.com and for whatever reason I'm a bit confused on the install procedure for the locking studs. Can someone break it down real basic-like, with a quick step-by-step and a list of tools I'll need? Thanks!

BTW, here it is. While I like the look, I especially like the mirror dot inlays.




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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 08:53 AM
 
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

If it's only a slight bit sharp or a slight bit flat, that's normal for any floating bridge. I've always seen that and it's normal from my experience. If it's like WAY sharp or flat, then there's more to it than just a locking stud. The OE and Lo pro don't have locking studs and hold tuning just fine, and many people like the Edge pro over the EZ.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 10:40 AM
 
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

Very nice guitar Freak, I really like the dots on yours over the sharkies on later models.

Edge Pros always have thicker, blunt knife edges that have a tendency to bind on the studs preventing perfect return (perfect return never happens on any floater)

If your return is only off by a few cents, try a little chapstick as a lubricant at the pivot point between the knife edges and the studs. If the chapstic doesn't work, you probably need to file the knofe edges. If that doesn't help then adding the set screw locks may help. You'll have to remove the trem and studs to file the knife edges and/or add the set screws.

Read this ENTIRE page to better familiarize yourself with what you'll need, how to do it, and help with filing your knife edges.
http://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/stud_mod_03.htm


Quote:
Originally Posted by MatiasTolkki View Post
If it's only a slight bit sharp or a slight bit flat, that's normal for any floating bridge. I've always seen that and it's normal from my experience. If it's like WAY sharp or flat, then there's more to it than just a locking stud. The OE and Lo pro don't have locking studs and hold tuning just fine, and many people like the Edge pro over the EZ.
Are you sure about that??
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 12:12 PM
 
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

I've done the locking stud mod on my guitar (RG2620) with edge pro... It makes a lot of difference.

First you need new locking studs.. You can use the ones that is for the Original Edge, they'll go right into the anchor.

And for the anchor you need a set screw because those anchors have no bottom and if you just change the studs and lock them the set screw within the stud will raise the entire anchor.

Therefore you need a M8 set screw almost at the bottom (screw it in all the way and then raise it an half turn) of the anchor and then you can change the studs and lock them without any worries.

The set screw should M8 pitch 1,25 and as short as possible... I've made custom ones for myself. (4mm)

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/86206

In this link it's 8 mm long but I think you can get 6 mm long as an standard.
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 12:23 PM
 
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

Quote:
Originally Posted by MatiasTolkki View Post
If it's only a slight bit sharp or a slight bit flat, that's normal for any floating bridge. I've always seen that and it's normal from my experience. If it's like WAY sharp or flat, then there's more to it than just a locking stud. The OE and Lo pro don't have locking studs and hold tuning just fine, and many people like the Edge pro over the EZ.
The OE and Lo Pro have locking studs. So does the EZ, that's one big reason why Ibanez are great trem-designers.

Edge Pro is great for one reason and that's the intonation point/sound chip however it has a design flaw being that every time you fine tune, you make the string weaker and weaker at the locking point. And of course the absence of locking studs but that's an easy fix.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

Thanks all! I think I'll give the locking stud mod a go some day, but only when I have money to burn. In the mean time, should I worry about the body wood ovaling with trem use? I'm thinking that over time it will ruin the wood, making even new inserts move around. Is that accurate or am I just worrying too much?
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 06:35 PM
 
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

Quote:
Originally Posted by RGTFanatic View Post
Are you sure about that??
Really? I didn't even know they did
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

Quote:
Originally Posted by MatiasTolkki View Post
Really? I didn't even know they did
OE and Lo Pro had locking studs, it's one of their best features and why they're often cited as being superior to the Edge Pro. Ibanez stopped using locking studs to 1) cut costs (I'm sure of it) and 2) because people that didn't know what they were doing were stripping the studs/inserts when trying to adjust the action. It's been said they stopped using locking studs when the Edge Pro was introduced but it's my understanding that they stopped somewhere in the late '90s so some Lo Pro bridges may not have them. The new models with the OE again have locking studs.

Anyway, this is what I've come to understand from my good friend Google. Feel free to correct me if any of this info is incorrect.
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

Quote:
Originally Posted by RGTFanatic View Post
Very nice guitar Freak, I really like the dots on yours over the sharkies on later models.

Edge Pros always have thicker, blunt knife edges that have a tendency to bind on the studs preventing perfect return (perfect return never happens on any floater)

If your return is only off by a few cents, try a little chapstick as a lubricant at the pivot point between the knife edges and the studs. If the chapstic doesn't work, you probably need to file the knofe edges. If that doesn't help then adding the set screw locks may help. You'll have to remove the trem and studs to file the knife edges and/or add the set screws.

Read this ENTIRE page to better familiarize yourself with what you'll need, how to do it, and help with filing your knife edges.
Thanks for the info! I will try the Chapstick thing. Will Big Bend's Nut Sauce also work?
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 08:38 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eskil View Post
I've done the locking stud mod on my guitar (RG2620) with edge pro... It makes a lot of difference.

First you need new locking studs.. You can use the ones that is for the Original Edge, they'll go right into the anchor.

And for the anchor you need a set screw because those anchors have no bottom and if you just change the studs and lock them the set screw within the stud will raise the entire anchor.

Therefore you need a M8 set screw almost at the bottom (screw it in all the way and then raise it an half turn) of the anchor and then you can change the studs and lock them without any worries.

The set screw should M8 pitch 1,25 and as short as possible... I've made custom ones for myself. (4mm)


In this link it's 8 mm long but I think you can get 6 mm long as an standard.
Thanks for the info! Instead of using the set screw can I just use inserts from a Edge/Lo Pro equipped guitar? If so, how do I pull out the old inserts? That's the part that's confusing me the most.
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 08:44 PM
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

Edge or Lo Pro never didn't have lockers, it's in the spec.

As for the ovalling of the anchor holes from non locking studs, I've come to a different conclusion over the years. I've u[dated one of my pages with it, somewhere.

I can't find it.

My theory is, based on experience, that the anchors lean just from the string tension alone, depending on the piece of basswood. Some basswood is harder, some softer, if it's soft, over decades that springs and string tension is enough to push the anchors into the wood, and keep pushing.

This is if your anchors are set below the surface of the trem rout, which almost all are.

Anchors that are high set, either at the surface of the shelf, or even a little above, these anchors are never loose. Only the deeper set anchors will get loose. My opinion is that the sealer coat that soaks into the wood at the surface, makes it very hard, so when the anchor is set high, it can't push into this reinforced basswood. When it's set low, there's nothing to stop it from doing whatever it's going to do.

Just my opinion from years of observation. I don't think the locks have anything to do with a loose anchor, or at most, very minimal to do with it. I think it's all about the piece of wood and how deep the anchor is set, and if you put 10's or 12's on your guitar you're just asking for the problem to accelerate.
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 08:46 PM
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

Quote:
Originally Posted by RG_Freak View Post
Thanks for the info! Instead of using the set screw can I just use inserts from a Edge/Lo Pro equipped guitar? If so, how do I pull out the old inserts? That's the part that's confusing me the most.
Changing anchors is unnecessary surgery when adding set screws is like getting your distemper shot.
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 10:21 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich View Post
Edge or Lo Pro never didn't have lockers, it's in the spec.

As for the ovalling of the anchor holes from non locking studs, I've come to a different conclusion over the years. I've u[dated one of my pages with it, somewhere.

I can't find it.

My theory is, based on experience, that the anchors lean just from the string tension alone, depending on the piece of basswood. Some basswood is harder, some softer, if it's soft, over decades that springs and string tension is enough to push the anchors into the wood, and keep pushing.

This is if your anchors are set below the surface of the trem rout, which almost all are.

Anchors that are high set, either at the surface of the shelf, or even a little above, these anchors are never loose. Only the deeper set anchors will get loose. My opinion is that the sealer coat that soaks into the wood at the surface, makes it very hard, so when the anchor is set high, it can't push into this reinforced basswood. When it's set low, there's nothing to stop it from doing whatever it's going to do.

Just my opinion from years of observation. I don't think the locks have anything to do with a loose anchor, or at most, very minimal to do with it. I think it's all about the piece of wood and how deep the anchor is set, and if you put 10's or 12's on your guitar you're just asking for the problem to accelerate.
My '99 rg520qs with edge trem has locking studs
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-19-2015, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
 
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich View Post
Changing anchors is unnecessary surgery when adding set screws is like getting your distemper shot.
Thanks for the info, Rich! I ordered a pair of M8 1.25 6mm set screws from ebay. Do I need to file them to 4mm or is that just a preference thing? Also, if I use the 6mm without filing them, can I just use the stock un-locking studs so that they meet the set screw, in effect, "locking" them? Or should I just suck it up and spring for the locking studs?
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 04-20-2015, 12:45 AM
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Re: NGD and locking stud question

You should have just ordered the stud mod.
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