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Trem Angle

2K views 7 replies 5 participants last post by  mike570 
#1 ·
I have a 2008 Ibanez Prestige 1570 with the Edge Pro trem. I know Ibanez tells you to make sure the knife edges are level, but I can't seen to get any type of REALL low action without it being SLIGHTLY higher at the end. I've noticed this on other Ibanez guitars I've owned.

I have no tuning stability problems, and seem to have a TAD more pullup.

Will this hurt the guitar in any way?
 
#3 ·
I agree.

My setup for trem guitars follows this sequence:
1) set neck relief (i use just a very slight bit of relief). I look for the space under the frets and a straight edge. In a pinch I will fret the string at the 1st and 24th fret and check it quickly.
2) trem angle set (bar parallel to body - there are good drawings on this site for different trems) with the guitar tuned to pitch
3) check nut height - I do this by fretting the third fret and ensuring there is a slight bit of daylight between the strings and frets at frets one & two
4) set action - I used to do this at the seventh fret (with a capo on the first fret to eliminate nut height), but I have been setting it based on the 24th fret lately. I use a little metal ruler and look at the high and low e strings. Also, I always used to drop the string/ spring tension when adjusting the posts to save the knife edges. After seeing something on Rich's site and talking with him over email, I feel safe making adjustments on the prestiges with tension.
5) set the intonation. I will block the trem and make my adjustments.
6) play and make minor adjustments based on feel.
 
#6 ·
Yes but the knife edge inserts and Edge Pro trem body are parallel with each other. Not so with the Edge and Lo Pro.

I added a neck shim to the headstock side end of the neck, and leveled out the trem. Now it plays even better. It had TOO MUCH of an angle it seems.
 
#7 ·
#8 ·
I would maintain that the trem doesn't have to be 100% precisely level. IMO a number of imperfections in the system can lead it to not be 100% level. It could be a minute variance in the scale length, imperfections in the fine tuners, expansion or contraction of the wood, or even something like a slight variance in the way the springs are flexing. Remember what you're doing is canceling vectors; the springs counteracting the tension on the strings. This idea that eyeballing it makes it perfect isn't sound IMO. This is why I use a good tuner to level my trems. Keep the back plate off, tune, and adjust the spring tension accordingly. The real goal is making sure the thing doesn't slip out of tune and returns to pitch when the trem is used. A machine works much better than your eyes do.
Again, just my humble opinion. It works for me though.
 
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