Hi everyone, I've got some questions about the Free Tension neck in my USRG30.

1. Every time I change strings I go crazy because: "headstock parallel to the neck" = "when I close the blocking nut every string go sharp" madness.
I'm sure there are some tricks that I don't know to restring this guitar without much effort, but the way I do with my other RG don't work well with the USRG.
Any ideas?

2. The neck joint is one of the ugliest I've ever seen: it isn't cut right (like many USRG, I heard).
Can I ask a luthier to "operate" on the neck to make the AANJ neck joint as it should be or there's a risk to ruin the inner parts of the free tension system?

Excuse for my bad english (I'm Italian): if this is not understandable let me know and I'll try to rewrite it better.
Thanx in advance,
Alex

Maybe post a couple of pictures so we can see exactly what you're talking about? These necks are typically very stable (my experience) and reasonably trouble-free.

I sanded down the back of my USRG30 neck years ago to get rid of the block on the neck before the neck joint and I never had any problems with it.

I never cared for my USRG neck, either. Mine was very sensitive to temperature changes and needed constant truss rod adjustments. One thing I never quite understood was what is the small hole in the side of the neck on the high E side for? There is an allen head screw in there. Does that adjust anything or is it some sort of set screw?

First of all, thanks for the answers.
This is a photo (not my usrg, but the "problem" is the same) of the back of the neck: http://www.maeguitars.com/gallery/USRG30-2.jpg
As you can see it's not cut right to match the AANJ design.
@Takin' a Ride: in my knowledge that hole is used by the manufacturer for adjustements and it's not intended for users/luthiers to touch.

Yeah, I guess I never thought about it, but mine was sort of like that, too. But completely different:

I confirm that this is the solution: my luthier did this to my guitar too and now the neck is ok.