Age is catching up with all of us!

No disrespect felt, it was getting a little bashy, too much pandemic fever I suspect. My first floater came a couple years later, 540R that was a year old, I guess the guy bought it and never learned, I was looking for a JS1 but it was close enough at the time. I still have it, it's sentimental, and survived a near fatal accident in 96'!

Stay healthy!

When I restring my guitars, I just put some sponge/foam kinda stuff under the bridge in the trem cavity to keep it in the correct position. Then just put on new strings, tune them, take off the sponge/whatever (The bridge will remain in it's position), stretch strings and tune, lock the saddle and fine tune and then go on. Takes about 20 minutes for the whole process between old and new strings.

Sometimes, when I ain't got anything to put in the cavity, I just press down the trem bar with my right hand so that the bridge is in the right position while turning the tuners in headstock with my left hand. Works really well, too.

I got my first Ibanez (Roadstar II RG440) in about 1995-1996. Had no clue about the Ibanez Edge then. Had no access to internet at that time. Just had to figure out what to do and what not. Took a year to realize about the intonation etc.

BTW, my first electric was this model and color. Cool guitar. Wish I still had it.
https://reverb.com/uk/item/27662383-...molo-dark-wine

Hi there,

There’s been a great deal of patience and tolerance shown by the membership here over the last few years towards the OP, patience that is wearing thin.

With just four posts spread over 10 years, you’re probably lacking a little context and background. As such, we would all be better off if you abstained from chiming in.


And that says all the rest of what we need to know…

But thanks for dropping by.

And yes, I say that as a moderator here.

That

Just

Happened

English is my second language. I’ve mentioned this before and although my English is good, is not same as trying to learn to do something in your own language. I’m more of a visual person and always found it difficult to learn how to do something by just reading instructions off the internet.

This happens because the person writing the instructions doesn’t usually put himself in the shoes of the noob. The frame of mind is different as he is looking at things and steps from his reality.

The only way I would learn to do my own setup is by watching the whole thing and being taught what to do every step of the way. This requires time and effort that 99% of techs will not do for free or even if you paid them.

If you think some simple writeup in green fonts with ancient background or some youtube video guides are enough for a noob to learn enough to do their setups then everyone would be doing them and guitar techs would be out of business

Guitar techs would be out of business in the same way car shops would be out of business if everyone changed their own oil.

Enjoy your trem and your half step of pull-up range 👍

Half step of pull up range? What does it mean tho that i can pull up higher than normal or lower than normal?

a half step is a semi tone... aka one fret sharp in pitch. Which is noticeably less than normal which is evident of the abnormally high/buried bridge angle. I have sent you a private message with a picture showing you proper bridge height about 2 days ago if you haven't seen it already.

Hello guys, I adjusted the angle and ended up with this, I think the line on the side is almost level with the top of the body, but this raised the action a little bit, so no I need to lower the action of the high strings from 2.0 to 1.5mm on 12th fret. I don't even have the tool to unlock the post screws as bought guitar used. I had no idea it had to be unlocked as I have never seen a tech do the setup in front of me.

Read this.

https://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/action.htm

1.5mm Allen key to unlock the studs, 4mm Allen key to lower the trem posts, 1.5mm Allen key to re-lock the studs.

Looks dead on to me. The tool is actually pretty reasonable on amazon. I bought the ibanez brand intonation tool for $38 shipped about a month ago. It can be done without it though. If you remove your springs and pop the bridge off you can adjust the intonation. Then pop the bridge back on, put your springs back in and retune... The multi tool is like $20 with all the allen keys and what ever else is on there.

That looks nice and level. If you don't have one, I recommend getting the ibanez multi tool MTZ11 as a bare minimum - contains all the tools you'll probably ever need for setting up an ibanez. It also has the hex key for unlocking the trem studs

When I want to adjust the action, do I have to unlock the string lock screws, you know the ones that stick out the bridge? maybe I'm confused about that

My only concern is what happens when is time to change strings, if I remove all the strings at once, this could alter the bridge angle, so I would need to use something to block the bridge and change one string at a time. There is this tremblock but I don't know if it will work. There also wedges that you can put in between the block.

https://skyscraperguitars.com/store#...egory=25043259

I'm going to ship my guitar in the future for the sustainer installation, but they will probably remove all the strings at once and leave it like that for days, so I'll have to put one of these wedges or something in there

When you raise or lower the bridge you do not need to unlock the nut. It may go very slightly sharp or flat in tuning... but that shouldn't be too hard to adjust. To adjust the action all you need to do is adjust the bridge posts height, no need to loosen anything but the set screw in each post. The allen screws protruding behind the bridge are the screws that cause the string clamping block to clamp the string in place in the saddle.

I have these in my guitars to aid me in quick restringing and or setup. One is just a tremolo stopper (the green guitar has this one) it makes it easy to do a good cleaning or string gauge change for easy intonation adjustments. The other is an All-Parts Tremol-no. It allows you to make your trem a dive only or give you a hard tail bridge effect. I also use it when I restring because I can lock the bridge in place. The other picture has the saddle screw circled. This is where the intonation is adjusted. It helps a lot if you have one of these to adjust intonation on a floater.

https://www.amazon.com/Ibanez-EJK-EJ...s%2C141&sr=8-1

These things come in handy. If you don't have one though, the trem stopper or the tremol-no make it easy, just wind in the trem stopper screw or lock down the tremolo-no.... loosen the string that needs intonating, unlock the saddle screw, adjust the saddle... lock it all back down and retune. You can achieve a similar effect with those wedges though.

Here's a full description of intonation adjustments

http://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/intonation.htm

If you do have a method of blocking the trem so it stays flat, restringing is much simpler. Having a trem blocking\locking method makes the setup much simpler. Though just replacing one or two strings at a time works fine too. As long as you stretch and tune each string... or every 2 strings before moving on you should be able to keep your trem angle correct and everything in tune.

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I haven't used an intonation tool in 20 years, a turbo winder is your best friend and far faster. Even faster if you just set the E and D and know where the rest are going to naturally fall depending on which bridge it is.

They sell wood blocks for $10 when you can roll up cardboard for free?

I will still never, ever, block a floater level and pull the strings. The trem will blow off the studs with the slightest jolt, or if well lubed, just by looking at it wrong.