Lo-Pro set up query - Sadly lacking tech skills I'm afraid! - Jemsite
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2001, 12:48 PM Thread Starter
 
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Lo-Pro set up query - Sadly lacking tech skills I'm afraid!

Hi,
I have decided to take more of an interest in the tech upkeep of my guitars instead of just sending them off to a pro to tweak and adjust.

I still haven't touched my DBK as far as set-up goes, so it's still in factory state. (which is not the best as you can imagine)
My only query (as all other questions have been answered by the tech section of jemsite) is about the "angle" of the bridge.

When adjusting the trem springs the reference point for the 1.5mm (pick) clearance is the high "E" end of the bridge. Should the low "E" end also have a 1.5mm clearance or should this be slighty higher as is common with most bridges.

Thanks
Hope I make sense.

Steve
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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2001, 01:21 PM
 
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Lo-Pro set up query

I hope this makes sense. I don’t have much of a “tech” vocabulary.

I think it’s partially personal preference. Because of the fact that the larger wound strings have a larger radius of vibration than the small I set mine a bit higher on that side to avoid buzz.

It took a very long time to achieve perfect balance between spring and string tension, but I finally got my bridge set up level or parallel with the strings on my UV. This still allows me to bend up a step before it hits the bottom of the trem cavity. The action is just high enough so it doesn’t fret out when bending up.

I know some like the ability to bend notes up a bit further. Basically, I think you can experiment with the goal of achieving the lowest comfortable action for you without the strings buzzing on the frets or fretting out when you pull the whammy up.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2001, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
 
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Lo-Pro set up query

Thanks for the quick reply Bob.

I currently have the low "E" end of the bridge set at approx 3mm (reference point), as I had similar feelings about the extra vibration of the lower strings, maybe I was just being a wee bit too *an*l
about it but being a useless tech it's always nice to have some clarification.

Thanks again *(next time I'll just trust in myself and how it feels)

Steve

(Edited by ripl3y at 1:30 pm on Jan. 15, 2001)
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2001, 02:19 PM
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Lo-Pro set up query

Use those measurements as a guide, but don't inhibit "the force". You'll know when it's setup to your liking because it will feel right, not "measure right" ...glen
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2001, 03:12 PM Thread Starter
 
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Lo-Pro set up query

Cheers Glen,

I've finally finished my complete setup in a "newbie" stylee!!!

I have just very slighty over 1/16th"" clearence at 24th fret high "E" and approx 2mm 24th low "E".

High "E" ref point sits exactly 1.5mm and feels good, with low "E" @ 2.75mm.

I've eliminated the "factory" lower buzz with a slight truss rod relief and my baby plays like a dream throughout!

Thanks god for Jemsite, if a tech lamer like me can do it, then maybe Ibanez will get it right someday

Thanks again for the input and great reference.

Steve
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2001, 03:14 PM
 
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Lo-Pro set up query

I pay more attention to how the angle of the knife edges, and less attention to how big of a pick can fit under it.
The knife edges should be at a 90 degree angle with the trem posts.
Look at the pics in the setup section and get your angle to match them.
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-15-2001, 09:59 PM
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Lo-Pro set up query

Doink's right on the money, the pick trick only works if all guitars have the same neck pocket depth, neck heel depth, amount of neck shim, etc. Look at the edge of the trem where the knife edge protrudes through. This is a good reference point to see how close to 90 degrees it is. Actually if you have a thick neck shim in, you'll want the knife edge angle slightly up in the back of the trem. The way Ibanez shows in the 'pamplet' they supply with a new guitar is the bottom of the trem parrallel to the top of the body. Since you can't see the bottom of the trem use the knife edge protrusion as it's parallel to the bottom of the trem.
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-16-2001, 04:08 AM
 
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Lo-Pro set up query

This is all so hard to explain. It'd be so much easier if we could just show all this in person!
I think the knife edge is part of a seperate peice of metal, and you can see part of it on the side of trem. I usually make sure that is level/parallel with the body.
Here's a pic of what I'm trying to explain. I've kind of circled the seperate peice, so you'll have an idea of what I mean.
http://www.geocities.com/begorran/Edge.jpg
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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-16-2001, 05:44 AM
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OK, long time coming but I figure if I'm going to type it here I might as well type it on my site and build the tech section that way. Long overdue. Jemsite tech section RULES!! but mine will be written more 'Tech for dummies' eventually covering everything from setup, to fretwork. 1st installment, Trem Angle, is finished, sort of. It's late(early) and I'm tired. Suggestions/additions very welcome.

http://www.ibanezrules.com/tech.htm

Ahhh, just discovered how to make links in here :biggrin:

(Edited by Rich at 5:59 am on Jan. 16, 2001)
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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-18-2001, 03:54 AM
 
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Lo-Pro set up query

YES! That's it! You can see that seperate peice clearly in those pics!
Very informative Rich!

Glen, don't you think this thread should be in the FAQ?
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post #11 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-18-2001, 02:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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Lo-Pro set up query

Excellent Rich!

Thanks for the help.

Just one thing,
I still can't get the 90degree exact, due to the low "E" side being raised slightly higher than the high "E" (posts) , it sort of throws it out of line very slighty no matter how I adjust the springs, if I really try to compensate then the bridge sits too low and I can't get it to fret out.
I'd say it's about 86/87 degrees, but it's beginning to annoy me so I'm happy with that

Thanks again

Steve
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post #12 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-18-2001, 02:28 PM
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You're almost there dude, let the springs settle into their new position and finish it up. 1/4 turn should do it, maybe less. The angle caused by the posts being at different levels will not affect the angle of the trem at all. It will slightly if you adjust the posts AFTER you have set the angle at 90 though. Height changes affect tension and will slightly change the angle. Set the height before the angle by manually setting the angle using the bar while checking the height of the action, adjust, then manually adjust the angle again (using the bar) till the action height is correct. Wish I had typed that on my site!! LOL
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post #13 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-18-2001, 03:21 PM Thread Starter
 
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Lo-Pro set up query

Heh!
Cheers Rich.

I think I need to let the springs settle a bit, being that they are brand new they are a bit finnicky.

She now frets out and stays in tune and the action is approx 1.2mm high"E" 24th, 1.8mm low "E" 24th, Zero Buzz.

I have quite "paddy" fingers and with the action as it is can get a 2 fret bend on the 24th which is perfect by me, I'd like to go ever so slightly lower ( like satch's 2/64"" ) as I do love my legato, but it just isn't practical atm.

Your help has been invaluable, thanks m8

Steve
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post #14 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-18-2001, 05:18 PM
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Something wrong in your teminology, fret out means something in your setup is causing a fret to kill a note, not a good thing. And you should have infinate bend at the 24th, till breakage at least
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post #15 of 16 (permalink) Old 01-19-2001, 02:31 AM Thread Starter
 
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Lo-Pro set up query

Well actually Rich I like it to fret out at the limit cause I actually like the squeel I get from it (hope I ain't weird)

The only thing stopping the infinate bend at the 24th is the size of my pads, slippage occurs if I attempt over a 2-3 fret bend.

Cheers
Steve
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lower strings , neck shim , string tension , trem springs , truss rod , wound strings

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