Have an issue with the lock nut on the RG750 I just got a couple of weeks ago. The nut sits too far to the treble side and won't move any farther to the bass side. So, the high E string tends to slip off the edge of the fretboard. It seems like the bolt holes were drilled too far over. I have an idea to fix this tonight without driling the holes bigger to allow more adjustment. Just wondering if anyone has seen this problem before.

Do you have access to some decent calipers?

I suggest you use a precision measuring device and take a measurement from the drilled holes in the neck to the outside edge on both sides AND measure the nut from the distance from the holes to the outside of the nut.

People would assume its the necks fault....but....it also could be a nut where the holes were offset to one side because the blank didnt sit perfect in the jig before the holes were drilled. If the nut was drilled off a simple replacement (*or if you have the ability, you could weld the holes up and drill and re-tap new holes, but this requires some skills and tools)

If you find that it is the neck with misaligned holes, worst case you could use the same drill size as the existing holes and apply lateral pressure to the bit when running to 'walk' the bit (making the holes oval and not larger) towards the direction you want to nut to go.

If its any more then 1/16" off, you may need to fill and re drill the nut holes in the neck.

Good luck

~JH

yep 87 rg550 same issue.
dont know why it was but i took off the big washers on the screws that hold it on so i could slide it closer to the other side.


then it still wasnt perfect but alot better.

i was thinking maybe the neck twisted over time or they just sucked at aligning the holes.

the guitar played great but i couldnt get over the strings being too close to bass side.

I am going to use a pedestal grinder at work and grind the threads of the bolts and leave a couple mm on the end to screw into the nut. That would give me the clearance I need. I'll bring my pin micrometer home and check the hole alignment in the neck.

If it were me I'd just take a small round file and slightly oval out the holes in the neck.

on mine the issue wasnt able to be fixed by making the holes oval.
because the actual screw heads were hitting the side of the holes long before the threads hit the walls of the holes.

try what i suggested before.

Here's my fix. I know most of you don't have access to equiptment to do this. I ground the threads where they go through the neck and left about 2mm of the threads to screw into the nut. Left me with about 1mm of adjustment which was more than enough.

Big thumbs up. I thought you were nuts when I first read it, but seeing the result, I'd use those. Make me some?

Been a machinist for 25 years so it it didn't sound nuts to me but trying to explain it is hard some times. Most people say "you do what for a living?" I can make some for you Rich if you really want some.

I didn't think there would be enough shaft left to take the torque, but it looks just beefy enough. I've always just moved the nut, this will be alot easier and completely non invasive way to do the same thing, much less faster. I'd be happy to pay for as many as you want to grind.

Did you use a lathe? Looks to precise for using a pedestal grinder unless you used something to constantly turn it. Regardless it was a solid idea.

That was the problem, I couldn't move the nut over to align the strings. I didn't want to remove any wood from the holes. I would have had to oblong the holes and counterbores. I used a small surface grinder with a spin fixture and a 1/2" wheel (12mm). I didn't have a lot to clamp on the end of the threads but it worked. I ground the shaft to about 3mm. Bolt is a 4mm button head 16mm long.

I run into this alot but have always just moved the nut. I used a splayed bit for the surface holes so you can't tell they're backcut, but it all takes time. This is just simple.

Hot damn.

Wow, I didn't think that would work either when you described it, but that looks great.