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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-28-2005, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
 
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maple fretboard treatments

I read recently that lemon oil is only for use on rosewood boards, can someone let me know what i should use on maple boards.
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-28-2005, 05:44 PM
 
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Re: maple fretboard treatments

A damp cloth works fine (Some guitar polish also helps to)

Maple doesn't need much to clean
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-28-2005, 05:55 PM
 
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Re: maple fretboard treatments

None of my maple fingerboards have ever needed oil more than what comes off naturally from playingtime. I do have to apply it roughly every 6 months or so on my rosewood boards as they dry out pretty quickly if you dont play them often enough. When I first got my Jem90 I had to add some lemon oil to the ebony as it had been in a case unplayed for almost 5 years. Since then, just the oil accumulated from my hands during playtime keeps it in shape. My other ebony boards have never needed it.

Lee
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-28-2005, 06:48 PM
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Re: maple fretboard treatments

Most maple boards are finished, so they don't need anything but a wipe down. Most other fretboards aren't, unless you're talking about a Rickenbacker bass or something.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-28-2005, 06:54 PM
 
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Re: maple fretboard treatments

Lacquer!
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-28-2005, 07:08 PM
 
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Re: maple fretboard treatments

hey is it possible to add to much? i use guitar honey whenever i restring on an ebony board, i just like the lake of friction, but is it bad for the board?
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-29-2005, 04:54 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: maple fretboard treatments

this maple board aint laquered its natural.. does that make a difference to these suggestions?
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-29-2005, 09:27 AM
 
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Re: maple fretboard treatments

Sure it does. Most Maple boards are finished, because Maple will get dirty instantly. Even if your hands are always perfectly clean, the strings will give off a black residue that will get buried into the board. Once Maple has taken on dirt, there's little to nothing you can do to clean it off. It penetrates like wood stain. You can steel wool it or scrape it with a razor, but then you're removing wood. You can also level the board during a refret to get the top layer off and have a fresher starting point. But if you want to keep the board looking bright, then there has to be a finish on there. For that you can use tung oil, tru-oil, or almost any kind of lacquer/poly finish.

To condition a raw board, you can reapply tung oil every few months, and use steel wool when necessary to cut it back. You could also use a lemon oil, but it's not all that necessary to condition a Maple board.

So it depends on what your intentions are. If you want to keep the Maple looking brand new, then there's nothing you can do besides a lacquer or poly coat. Trying to build up an oil finish is fine, too, but it can get sticky and uneven. EB/MM does a nice job of building up coats, but their boards still get dirty. If you're just worried about keeping the wood healthy, then one light coat of tung oil once or twice a year is fine.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-29-2005, 10:04 AM
 
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Re: maple fretboard treatments

thanks Frank...excellent info
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-29-2005, 10:10 AM
 
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Re: maple fretboard treatments

Quote:
Originally Posted by frankfalbo
Sure it does. Most Maple boards are finished, because Maple will get dirty instantly. Even if your hands are always perfectly clean, the strings will give off a black residue that will get buried into the board. Once Maple has taken on dirt, there's little to nothing you can do to clean it off. It penetrates like wood stain. You can steel wool it or scrape it with a razor, but then you're removing wood. You can also level the board during a refret to get the top layer off and have a fresher starting point. But if you want to keep the board looking bright, then there has to be a finish on there. For that you can use tung oil, tru-oil, or almost any kind of lacquer/poly finish.

To condition a raw board, you can reapply tung oil every few months, and use steel wool when necessary to cut it back. You could also use a lemon oil, but it's not all that necessary to condition a Maple board.

So it depends on what your intentions are. If you want to keep the Maple looking brand new, then there's nothing you can do besides a lacquer or poly coat. Trying to build up an oil finish is fine, too, but it can get sticky and uneven. EB/MM does a nice job of building up coats, but their boards still get dirty. If you're just worried about keeping the wood healthy, then one light coat of tung oil once or twice a year is fine.
I know I should be doing to mine but for some reason I like it how it is .

Regards

André



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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 10:23 AM
 
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Re: maple fretboard treatments

Most oils can be over applied. Lemon oil, tung oil ,etc can all be misused and over saturate the fret board.

The best thing ot use on maple to prevent oversaturation is a product that cannot over penetrate wood. One of these compounds is wax. Butchers wax can be bought easily and can't over penetrate the wood. Use a little at every string change and your board will probably never get nasty.

The idea is to clean your fret board properly using steel wool or other super fine abrasive. Then wipe it down well with a clean cloth. The napply the wax like you would on a car finish. Wipe on a thin coat, let dry for 5 minutes or so and wipe off and polish. If you use a polishing wheel, you can get the wax to have a nice sheen.

The nice thing about the wax is that you never feel it and it actually provides a good barrier between your board and finger/string residue
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 12:23 PM
 
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Re: maple fretboard treatments

Good advice. Recently I saw a guy literally saturate his RW board, with the strings on, an hour before playing time. It was some kind of "guitar spit" or something. He hosed it on and let it sit there. Oil should be applied and then the excess wiped off.

I've never waxed Rosewood. Some of the factories use it so they can buff the RW board at the same time as the frets, and they won't get the nasty black from the frets on the board. But I don't like the way it looks on Rosewood. I'm refretting a Maple board right now, and rather than put a thick satin finish on it I'll probably do a EB/MM type finish, and then finish off with some paste wax. That's a good compromise between a natural feel and a hard poly finish. The wax fills any microscopic voids as well, so then you generally CAN clean off the dirt with naptha or steel wool, so long as you reapply the paste wax periodically. I haven't tried Butchers wax. Right now I use Minwax finishing wax. You can smell some solvents in there. You put it on and wait several minutes before buffing it out. From what I can tell, it's drying harder than a Butchers wax.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-02-2005, 02:07 PM
 
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Re: maple fretboard treatments

Butcher's wax isn't hard at all. So I imagine that Mixwax is definitely harder.I believe that wither product will work well.

I think that penetrating type oils are best left in the hands of luthiers and experienced set up people. I've even heard guys brag about using olive oil.Olive oil is best left off a guitar and put into a nice marinara sauce
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ebony board , ebony boards , fret board , maple fingerboard , maple fingerboards , rosewood board , rosewood boards , steel wool , tung oil

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