Questions regarding shim removal HOWTO - Jemsite
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-01-2004, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
 
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Questions regarding shim removal HOWTO

I've always thought the action on my 777VBK played really high compared to other guitars and I assumed it just a part of the design. I was most pleased to find the HOWTO here on Jemsite for removing the brass shim. Before I venture into the tech work I thought I would ask a few nagging questions I have.

Obviously the trem will get out of balance removing part of the strings. The HOWTO mentions removing the trem itself instead to gain access to the locking nut. Having never removed mine I was wondering what happens with the string tension when doing this? I saw that you remove the springs from the claw. At this point I would guess the string tension would pull the trem towards the neck of the guitar. Plus when you pulled it off the posts, it would snap towards the headstock. Finally, when putting it back on the posts, it would require some effort due to the string tension.

The HOWTO talks about it like it would just simply lift off and easily be set aside. Is there something I'm missing here?

Secondly since its 10+ years old is there any additional maintenance worth doing while I have the trem off?

thanks for any helpful info,
-jim
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-01-2004, 02:42 PM
 
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It sounds like there would be tons of tension, But it's really not hard at all, And getting the trem seated properly it easily done

How i do it ...

1, Have trem bar pointing away from the neck, but inline
2, Rest guitar on lap, Trem bar keeps trem taught so it does'nt fall out when the springs are removed
3,Turn over guitar and remover trem (easily lifted out)

4, Do any and all maintenance and pickup wiring removal etc.

repeat steps 1-3 in reverse order

Rob
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-01-2004, 02:50 PM
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I'd never pull the trem to screw with the nut height. It doesn't make sense as one slip in tension and all the strings unwind from the pegs, and, it will need to be checked and rechecked many times to get the optimal height set right.

http://www.ibanezrules.com/tech/setup/nut.htm
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-01-2004, 02:58 PM
 
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Ooops, I'm speed reading again ...

Nut ... (i was thinking just Shim i.e. neck shim)

1, Loosen nut bolts remove shim/add shim/change shim (i use an instrument (flat blade) screw driver to push the shims into/out of place
2, tighten bolts, Check tuning etc.
3 re-tune if necassary

Sorry, i'm being an a$$, too exicted about my latest project :-)

Rich again is correct, Much can be said for never sleeping heh heh

Rob
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-01-2004, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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So to summarize I shouldn't do the whole trem removal process just to remove the shim? I should just block the trem forward (towards the neck) to lessen string tension and then i can pull the shim(s) out without removing the nut lock screws?

I assumed the shim would have holes in it for the nut lock bolts and would be immobile without removing both bolts.

It may be worth nothing that this is a 1990 model and has never had the shim(s) adjusted.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-01-2004, 03:10 PM
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Read the linked page. There are no holes in the shim.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-01-2004, 03:16 PM
 
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Shim is this shape, Kind of
____
[* *] (* are bolts)

It goes around the lock nut bolts

Rob
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-01-2004, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
 
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Cool, got it. A few final questions...

Is there any rhyme or reason to what might be on my Jem from the factory?

The link mentions the "string tree." I'm guessing this is the T bar like object on the headstock that goes across the top of the strings?

Finally is there an easy way to block the trem if I don't have an actual block?

Thanks again for the technical advice,
-jim
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-01-2004, 03:29 PM
 
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"the string tree" is indeed the Bar that go across all 6 strings, It's intended purpose is to keep the strings from going sharp when the locking nuts are tightened (i think)

Bottle caps work well for temp blocks ( string changing ?) as do anything of a similar size

I personally use an offcut of wood, it works great and has seen hundreds of uses since :-)

Rob
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2004, 04:19 PM Thread Starter
 
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Success (sort of). The methods listed here were dead on and it was very easy to remove the shims. Found out I had a full set of shims tucked away under the lock nut. Also found out that I need some half shims. With the .5 in place the top three strings are dead on and without any shim the bottom three (low E side) are dead on. Looks like I prob just need a half shim of .5.

Question, should I just order a set of Ibanez shims and cut a full shim in half? Do they actually make half shims? Anyone know a good place to order them online?

For some reason now I have a slight buzz at and around fret 6 on the B, might need other adjustments or might just be the way it is. It doesn't come through the amp so its not bad.
-jim
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 04-10-2004, 11:34 PM
 
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Click the swirly banner at the top of the page . . . just about everything you could need can be bought there. :-)

Mic
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Tags
lock nut , locking nut , locking nuts , neck shim , nut height , pickup wiring , string tension , string tree

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