In that case wouldn't air tool oil suffice?

Shouldn't the guitar get the same medicine as the player?

off topic, but this is sorta my jam.

CRC means Color Remediation Column, which is simply the addition of certain compounds like bentonite clay and silica gel to remove oxidize terpenes(flavor compounds) and remove dark color due to age of material. It's a way to clean up dirty or less desirable extracts. It tends to leave a very generic taste due to the process.

What you explained would be more akin to BHO, which means Butane Hash Oil. Which is simply cannabis extracted using a hydrocarbon which is then purged with no additional remediation or filtering. It's more pure in a sense. And all of this is barely scratching the surface.



Yep, that's how I know this is the ONE for me. My trem arms tend to get gunked up with hash from my fingers anyway

Thanks for the reply! So do you think that the oil that I use for the joints of a brass instrument (french horn) could be good for that?

I bought a magic arm for my 5570 about 10mos ago. So far it’s been great...it was loose for a while until I realized I never put the spring in the bottom. 🤦‍♂️ 2 things....

1: The bushing is a bit wide for my lo-pro so it wants to brush the High E saddle

2: It seems that it sits a little higher than the arm on my 2620’s lo-pro.

But it is very sensitive (with the spring in...) and the contour/shape feels right.

I also bought the Red Bishop Intonator (that I LOVE) and Luminlays

Luke

Shocked to see only one person here that's owned it so far.

I bought one for my FR1000 in 2018. It was far superior to the FR screw on cap assembly, probably even MAYBE a hair better than the FR push in depending on what you're looking for.

IME, I found that while it's 99% perfect on torque, there's still a hair's width of play. No *click*, but you can feel it playing inside the bushing. I'm a guy that LOVES my arm as tight as humanly possible for max flutter. So for me, it wasn't PERFECT perfect. My favorite setup is still the V1.1 and I just tighten that sumbitch down so hard that when you do spin it around, it's so tight it doesn't loosen the torque cap, as Rich described. However, i let the lid of my case push down on the bar. I never take it out. I know this is not how most people prefer their arms to work. I'm not a "have my cake and eat it too" guy. I'm fine replacing the bar if it breaks. Been through 6 of them in 4 years, tbh. I know Rich appreciates the business.

HOWEVER. I sold that Majik-Arm to a friend who is specifically looking for an arm that is very loose, practically to the point of a slow EVH style fallaway, but when he pulls back to flutter, he still wants it to flutter, not clack. The Majik Arm excels in SPADES at exactly this. If this is the specific niche you're looking for, I personally have never found a better arm for this (with of course the exception of a brand new edge arm with slightly worn washers - washers aren't even the biggest PITA on this bar imo. It's the damn finish wearing off in the rivet from the clip, causing permanent fallaway even with new washers). I will say I was a HUGE fan of the Gotoh 1996t style screw-in shrub screw assembly UNTIL the plastic grommet cracked on me. Now it WILL NOT tighten up no matter what and they don't sell that part separately. Bummer. I replaced it with a V1.1 cranked it down and haven't taken it out in almost 2 years. I'm a happy boy.

I had slight play in my magik-arm as well until I realized I didn't properly install the spring. They explain this in the instructions. I reread the instructions after a few months of using it. Pulled the trem back out and readjusted the spring and it had zero play after that. The spring position has to be perfectly.

It does ride very close to the saddle. It will touch in some cases. I just loosened the saddle screw and pushed it slightly toward the b string saddle. Now you can fit a piece of paper in betwy it and the saddle.

Unfortunately they don't sell the bar holder by itself... But I have seen the holder and arm bar as a set. I haven't used my gotoh equipt guitar enough to have that break.

Well, I just learned about the magick arm yesterday and put it in my cart immediately. I'm fairly new to edge and floating trems but quickly saw that for me, it could use some improvement. I'll give it a try. Cost is really not a barrier so... why not?!

I put one on a 1989 540R that had a replacement Schaller screw-in style arm. The Schaller arm just didn't feel like an original Edge trem arm. The Red Bishop feels just right. It quickly pops in and out (no screwing) and you can tighten it to be as stiff or loose as you want. The one thing I hated about the original Edge arm was having to hunt down those annoying little plastic bushings.

From now on all my Ibanez guitars are getting this upgrade.

Pics are attached.

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