Sanding an indo/Korean body...help! - Jemsite
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 06:52 AM Thread Starter
 
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Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

A while ago I bought a cheap either indo or Korean 370dx body purely to practice sanding painting filling cutting and everything else that might be involved in a refinish, knowing that I would make a mess of it, and with every intention of throwing it away. In no way am I trying to make this a project!

So this week the sun has been shining, so I cracked out the palm sander and went to work! Using 40grit paper (it was all I had handy) and to be honest, I think a house brick would have been smoother! now I've got all of the paint off, but it looks like there's some sort of sealer between the paint and the wood. It looks almost like a plasticy resin type of thing. I can see the different pieces of wood underneath it, but I've got a bare 550 body to compare it to, and the 2 are definitely not the same!

Is it just a case of determination to get throughout, this stuff? Or would I be better off with a chemical stripper or something? Continued sanding of it is just giving off White dust but definitely not saw dust!

All the threads I can find people just say sand until you can see the wood, but no one mentions fighting this plasticised beast!

Opinions?!

Cheers

Rich
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 07:03 AM
 
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Re: Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

I have yet to find a chemical stripper that will take that off!
I Use Tele-Strip for all paint removel, that is until I tried stripping a guitar body!
This is the same stuff Super Mans fortress of solitude is made of......


So Far, a belt, palm, and corner sander is the only way I have found that works.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 08:45 AM
 
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Re: Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

Few things to keep in mind--

That sealer stuff you're now into it is supposedly very toxic, like really toxic. You don't want to breathe it. So if you're dead set on sanding through it you should definitely get a real respirator, not just a dusk mask.

Secondly, unless you're going with a transparent finish, you don't need to remove the sealer. Many skilled painters will go down to the sealer and prep/prime over that. Actually, some good guitar painters don't even strip the color coat off -- if you know what you're doing, you can prep and prime right over that. Obviously I'm not a believer in the various theories about the tonal benefits of nitro over bare wood and am not really interested in starting that debate -- there are advocates both ways. Plus you'll probably never get the grain sealed as well as the factory did it, unless you're really experienced with grain filler and sealer and know what to look for. I see a lot of refins (including some of mine!) where the grain is still visible.

Finally, you may be surprised at how much wood you have to remove to get all the way through that stuff, as you would need to do if you're planning on some sort of stained or transparent finish. I did a JS body awhile back and was surprised that when I was all done, the cavity covers would no longer lay flush because they wound up sitting about 1/8" above the body. I then had to re-route the narrow shelves that they rest on to fix the problem. You may THINK you're all the way through it and then wind up with a blotchy finish when you start to apply the stain. I've also seen a lot of those "almost got it" refins.

Those are my humble opinions. I'm no expert, but I've been through this a number of times and know what you're dealing with. Whatever you do, have fun!
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 08:57 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

Well like I said this was purely an experiment. I just feel that if others are capable of sanding and refinishing bodies themselves, then while I might not be as good, I've gotta be capable! So I'm not trying to refinish this body as a guitar to play, just to experiment! And if I don't need to remove this stuff, then that's great, as long as I know!

Just out of interest, do the older jap models have this same sealant over them, or is it just the lower end/cheaper models?
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 09:03 AM
 
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Re: Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

I've run across that plastic-like sealer on all kinds of Iby bodies, including older J-made Roadstar models from the 80s.

One more thing -- when trying to remove all of that sealer, that's the stage where you risk creating an uneven surface, with dips and valleys. That's because in some places that stuff is deeper and more stubborn than in other places. Consequently there's a tendency to really work those areas and they wind up being low spots.

You're doing exactly the right thing by practicing on a discard project and asking questions. Others will have different opinions than mine, and eventually you'll come up with a process that works right for you. I don't think any two people do their refins exactly alike and there are a lot of disagreements about the best way to do it.

You should also check out the tutorials at ReRanch and Project Guitar, along with the ones that people have linked to on this site (AlaskaBat's and maybe others).

Bert
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 09:23 AM
 
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Re: Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

heat gun and scraper is what I've used for removing that rediculously thick and tough sealer. All 3 of my ibanez' had it, and so did the two squiers that I've done with friends. Heat gun and scraper. If you're careful you won't leave many dings. If you get it hot enough it cracks away without harming the wood underneath. Experiment on the back before you touch the front, and the sides are a pain.

also if you search there is a thread about an aircraft grade stripper that was found to be effective on the sealer. I think the thread is called "strippers". Go have a look. I kindof prefer the brute force approach that gets results in 30 minutes without noxious fumes. I recall that the stripper required many applications, hours of contact time, and a large box to cover the body and prevent the fumes from escaping.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 10:19 AM
 
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Re: Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

I love that old thick sealer.. call me crazy but I sanded my 350 down to the sealer and it looked great with a black pickguard..
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 11:20 AM
 
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Re: Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

you are crazy... that does look good. You only went to the sealer? I agree, that does look pretty good!

A
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 11:50 AM
 
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Re: Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

guys, block sanders arent magic.


If you are repainting, why would you feel the need to sand through the sealer?
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 11:50 AM Thread Starter
 
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Re: Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

Yeah, see my sealer looks nothing like that! Much cheaper and almost buttery/creamy looking. No way it could be used as a nice finish!
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 12:06 PM
 
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Re: Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewgosline View Post
heat gun and scraper is what I've used for removing that rediculously thick and tough sealer.
I don't mean to sound like a parent, but seriously, I wouldn't advise breathing that stuff, especially the heated fumes, without a quality respirator. I've been told that both the fumes and the dust are bad news. Of course, I DID inhale it when I sanded down my first two bodies, but then someone on Project Guitar read me the riot act and I wised up.
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 09-29-2011, 12:35 PM
 
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Re: Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

Quote:
Originally Posted by andrewgosline View Post
you are crazy... that does look good. You only went to the sealer? I agree, that does look pretty good!

A
It was my 1st time sanding a guitar body and when I got through the white paint this showed up,, and I was like ??? hey! I like it!
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 10-23-2011, 09:15 PM
 
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Re: Sanding an indo/Korean body...help!

That looks Excellent!
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