so, i had reasonable suspicion that my edge3 was F***'d, so i removed the trem to look at the knives, and got something along the lines of this
so when you look at it, each knife edge has a healthy sized notch in it, and im not sure if the side of the trem with he bar should be as curved as it is, i thought it should be straight. Comments?
now moving on,
after i removed the tremolo, i proceeded to remove the posts, because i was sure something was off.
I removed the treble side post, i started to remove the bass side, immediately after i started to turn it with the allen wrench, there was an incredible amount of resistance that i did not feel during the removal of the first post.
Now, the post decided to stop moving, and is stuck in the guitar at a slight angle. the head of the post where i would insert an allen wrench is stripped out, and im left with a useless guitar.
the post wont go out any further form this point, its just completely stuck.
sorry about the weird angle on that last one.
If anyone can help me with this dilemma, it would be much much appreciated.
ps: sorry about the pic quality, they are iPod pics
Rich is right -- if that post is cross-threaded, you're going to need to remove the anchor anyway, so might as well do it now. If you think that you can save the anchor and use a tap and die set to clean up the threads (I'd just replace the anchors), you can use Vise-Grips to grab the stud and loosen it.
And, I believe the knife edge closest to the tremolo arm is curved.
I've often wondered -- does anyone make good anchors like the one pictured in this thread? And when I say good, I mean hardened properly and made of higher-grade steel. It seems to me like that would be a good way to go to create a really good, stable base for a trem, especially in basswood. The hardening could help sustain and solidity.
OK, I'll preface this by noting that I have never pulled one of this particular type of anchor, but I believe many of the same principles to pulling a single anchor will apply.
To remove the anchor, first reinstall the other post enough to give you something to grab. Then unscrew the two screws in the middle of the anchor, and gently, but with equal force pull straight up on the posts. You don't want to wiggle the anchor, as this can elongate the holes. It may pull straight out fairly easily (I am betting this is the case), it may take a little effort, but be as gentle as you can. I would pull up with my fingers if possible, as that makes it more difficult to pull up so hard that you damage something.
If this process worries you, take it to a good tech.
"OK, I'll preface this by noting that I have never pulled one of this particular type of anchor, but I believe many of the same principles to pulling a single anchor will apply.
To remove the anchor, first reinstall the other post enough to give you something to grab. Then unscrew the two screws in the middle of the anchor, and gently, but with equal force pull straight up on the posts. You don't want to wiggle the anchor, as this can elongate the holes. It may pull straight out fairly easily (I am betting this is the case), it may take a little effort, but be as gentle as you can. I would pull up with my fingers if possible, as that makes it more difficult to pull up so hard that you damage something.
If this process worries you, take it to a good tech."
I just pulled the Edge trem out of my JS1200, and the knife edge is the same as the OP's. The knife with the bar of the trem is curved, but the other knife is straight. Should it be filed to be straight or not? Thanks
Assuming that it is in fact glued, you can try warming the anchor with a soldering iron -- just press it on near the post holes, and hold it there for a little bit until things warm up. Then carefully try pulling again -- you might want to use pliers or vice grips to keep from burning yourself. And for Pete's sake be careful with the iron -- they get very hot, and one false move could leave a big mark in the finish, or on your hand.
A quick question -- are the ends of the stud anchor closed in? Can you see metal down there, or wood?
Assuming that it is in fact glued, you can try warming the anchor with a soldering iron -- just press it on near the post holes, and hold it there for a little bit until things warm up. Then carefully try pulling again -- you might want to use pliers or vice grips to keep from burning yourself. And for Pete's sake be careful with the iron -- they get very hot, and one false move could leave a big mark in the finish, or on your hand.
A quick question -- are the ends of the stud anchor closed in? Can you see metal down there, or wood?
I had to pull one of these out of a Lo-TRSII route before. That one didn't require much force to pull the hinge out, but I did use a claw hammer to do it. It was not glued, it was pressed.
I did one for the same trem on an RG-470. I just put a bolt (something other than the trem post) in the anchor, put vise grip pliers on the bolt and tugged. Out it came.
Using these pics, you can see the easy way to remove your inserts. Its effective and completely safe for your guitar. I used a 1/4 thick piece of oak in between the hammer and the body to protect the rest of the body from the hammer.
The claw of the hammer is gripping the "V" on the stud. This was a broken stud I had laying around.
Gently rocking the hammer in the same way you would pull a nail, the inserts will come out straight without harming the insert bore.
You'll probably want to get new anchors for it. the cross-threaded side is, more than likely, destroyed. That said, you can remove the stud with a set of vise-grips and a good clamp/ bench vise. You certainly can't do any more damage to it, so I'd go for it.
lol thanks, but im thinking that i will ditch both studs, since they are already pretty damaged from my other efforts to remove the anchors. I will probably upgrade my edge III for edge pro with locking studs sometime in the future anyways.
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