Tremol-no and Ibanez standard DL tremolo bridge - Jemsite
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-23-2020, 12:34 AM Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
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Hello all, I'm curious if anyone can tell me if the tremol-no works with the standard DL tremolo bridge. I can't see why it wouldn't, but I don't see it mentioned in tremol-no's works with chart. The edge III is in the list (which is the dl's predecessor and extremely similar from what I understand) along with what looks like every other trem that Ibanez has made.
Assuming it is compatible, I mainly need to know what type to get. The edge III uses the small clamp type according to the chat. But that's also a note that says:
4. On certain Ibanez®️ Edge™️, LoPro™️, EdgePro™️ and Double Edge™️ systems, the #4 spring hole in the tremolo block is drilled and tapped. While the Pin-type *can* work without issue, we recommend the Small Clamp-type.

So I'm not really sure what route to take. I can hardly find any information on this bridge at all, so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction.

Also curious if anyone has experience using a d'tuna or similar quick change drop D device on this bridge

UPDATE: got it installed but running into some issues detailed in post below

Last edited by Andorian; 12-01-2020 at 06:17 PM. Reason: Update
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-23-2020, 07:52 AM
 
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I have a tremol-no on my original edge and my lo pro edge guitars. They are both the clamp type. The clamp adjusts a bit wider than the original trem spring block... It should work perfectly on your trem as long as you don't have a big brass block mod or something. The type that inserts into a spring hole in the block I wouldn't recommend because the DL doesn't have a trem block clamp. My edges are older, it was before they added that clamp with the screws. They're pretty awesome! Makes restringing and tuning a bit easier as well.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-23-2020, 02:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Great, thanks for the info! Do you by chance know which size clamp your using (they have both large and small clamp type)? I'm guessing it's the small one since that's what all the Ibanez bridges use except for one on tremol-no's works with chart.

Also when it comes to installing it. Is the spacing for the claw screws the same as the old claw you took off? Or did you have to drill holes for wider/narrower spacing? It's hard to tell from pictures, but it looks like the spacing for the screws might be wider than what's currently in there

Lastly, if your brain isn't feeling too picked over, I was thinking about replacing/upgrading the springs while I'm in there. Any thoughts on that? I can't really point to anything wrong with them. I can just barely hear them resonate when I attack a couple specific notes pretty hard but that's about it. But my thinking is that even though this is technically a new guitar, it was a floor model that I'm sure has been thrashed on and dive-bombed to hell by some 10-year-old with greasy mitts. I'm thinking some new springs might "tighten things up a little bit" for lack of a better description. But I don't know if I should just get the exact same springs (from Ibanez) or if I could go with something a little nicer, maybe the coated ones that don't make any noise, without any ill effects?
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-24-2020, 01:26 PM
 
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The one I am using is the small clamp type. The screw spacing was the same for my guitars, it was a plug and play fit. When it comes to your springs make sure you get a brand with a good reputation. Some off brand springs are chinese junk that do not hold up. I bought a set from Amazon for a body mounted floyd guitar and they lost tension in about 4 months... I realized it when I kept having to run the screws in deeper.

If you buy gotoh brand springs then you'll have the same quality that the edge trems have. Gotoh makes those trems. If your springs make noise then you could go for the noise cancelling type. I personally have never had any trem springs make any noise so I can't really say if they would make a big difference.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-24-2020, 05:00 PM Thread Starter
 
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Awesome, thanks again for all the help. I finally found and ordered the small clamp type, which was hard to find. Nobody except one seller on Reverb had them in stock. And the only reason these weren't sold out was because they were mislabeled as being only for a strat. Had to go back and forth with the seller a little bit before he realized that the model BP-2007-010 is just the small clamp type and not something specific to strats lol.

I ordered springs too, but I may have goofed. I put "certified authentic Floyd Rose" noiseless springs in my cart but meant to do a little bit of googling to make sure those were the same size/shape/tension springs that fit my bridge. I couldn't really find an answer except for looking at pictures that looked the same as what I have. So I meant to swap them out for a different set that specifically listed Ibanez or gotoh as compatible before checking out, but forgot.
It looks to me like they'll fit no problem. I just don't know how similar (or not) the tension might be, or if that even matters much

Last edited by Andorian; 11-24-2020 at 05:29 PM.
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-24-2020, 07:56 PM
 
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The floyd rose brand ones will be just fine. They'll be essentially the same tension, I doubt you would notice a difference between them or gotoh. It's just important you don't get some unlabeled knock off like I did in the past. Tension also depends on the bridge it self.

I have new springs from gotoh on my 1988 540r and a new gotoh locking trem on a js100 and the gotoh branded trem feels easier to move than the original edge. I even swapped the springs thinking there may be a difference. It turned out to be the nature of the bridge causing more tension not the springs themselves. Not too sure why... But I know the edge has a lot more mass than the gotoh counter part. Maybe that's why 🤔
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-25-2020, 01:27 PM Thread Starter
 
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Yeah I don't know too much about trem bridges, but from a physics standpoint, I would imagine things like the length of the block or the position of the springs (not just the tension. ie. Weaker springs the claw all the way in or stronger springs with the claw further out) and the mass like you mentioned all play a part in the "feel" or tension of the bridge.

And that is my goal, to make it stiffer cuz right now, breathing on the bridge will move it. Like when I tune, I have to make an adjustment and then completely move my hand away to test it because the lightest touch (from any angle) will give me a false reading on my tuner. Hoping the black floyd springs will help with that. From their chart I think these are one step stiffer than the original
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-25-2020, 03:53 PM
 
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Well that is the nature of a floating bridge. If you use 3 springs in an arrow pattern that helps, or if you use 4 springs that helps as well. Though 4 springs feels really stiff. But make sure you lube your trem posts. I heard recently from a tech on here chap stick is great for that. I just did that on a fresh setup of a 1991 540r
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 11-25-2020, 04:27 PM
 
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Re: Tremol-no and Ibanez standard DL tremolo bridge

Quote:
Originally Posted by JsXLine6 View Post
Though 4 springs feels really stiff.

My RG520 is set up with 4 springs and feels stiffer than my other floating Ibanez to use... was like that when I bought it. Didn't like it at first, but over time I got used to it and it does have benefits... Like staying in tune a little better with double stop bends and not moving as easily when palm muting. Just my thoughts... :-)
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-01-2020, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
 
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Hey all, just got my tremol-no last night and installed it. Went pretty easily, or so I thought. Floating and dive only mode seem to work fine, but in fixed bridge mode the bridge wiggles. The bridge will move slightly up and down (into and out of the cavity). So whenever I play anything more than a lightly picked single note, the bridge vibrates and the (horrible) sound is transferred through the pickups. I've tried to isolate where exactly the play is, but the movement is so miniscule that I can't really see it, only feel it. My best guess is maybe a little slop in the pivot points behind the clamp and/or at the claw

Has anyone encountered this before? I spent a while googling but couldn't come up with anything at all.

Just to confirm that I'm locking the tremol-no correctly:
1. holding the guitar the way I would play it, I slide the deep-C right up against the piece with the other two thumb screws and tighten it down (the thumb screws are hard to turn so I really gotta crank them to get them tight enough to hold)
2. tighten the screw closest to the deep-C
3. Tighten middle screw

In floating or dive only everything works as it should as far as I can tell. Just the fully locked mode that's giving me issues
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-01-2020, 10:11 PM
 
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I have read somewhere (where I can't remember.... Maybe it was a youtube video) that sometimes they can come with some slop... If so it's defective. Mine doesn't have the slop. Have you tried to contact the seller? And did you buy a brand new one? Or a used one?
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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-01-2020, 10:18 PM
 
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Scratch that, I just went down to the basement... My tremol-no is a couple years old now. When it's locked in hardtail "mode" if I vibrato bend a string... I do hear a slight knocking. I've never noticed it through my amp though. It is very subtle. Now if it's as bad as this guys video... Then yeah you need a replacement. The movement would be in that pin.

https://youtu.be/slbdQrD7Ak8

Last edited by JsXLine6; 12-01-2020 at 10:30 PM.
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post #13 of 13 (permalink) Old 12-05-2020, 05:34 AM Thread Starter
 
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Oh yikes, it's nothing like that video.
I think it was either something to do with how I installed the clamp or the way that I was locking it into hardtail mode. I I pulled the clamp off the block and repositioned everything, put it back together and tried again and now there's no movement in the bridge.

I haven't messed with it at all since I got it working right so I can't say whether it was how I had installed it or if I was locking it wrong. I do think I got it aligned better and sliding smoother the second time around, although I don't think that would have caused it
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