VLX91 / OTAX 5 Way Gurus - Jemsite
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2003, 12:00 AM Thread Starter
 
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VLX91 / OTAX 5 Way Gurus

Other than wiring diagrams on the Nez site, I'm in the dark on this VLX and my 2 Dimarzios and wiring them any other than this stock 3120.

I've a PAF PRO neck and a Fred bridge. I am HOPING someone has a link to an exhaustive detail on the VLX, or someone reading this knows it so well they could perhaps sketch me a quick diagram for what I wish to do?

Calling position 5 "bridge" position and position 1 "neck" position, this is my ideal setup.

5. Bridge series
4. Bridge south coil
3. Neck / Bridge (south coil neck / north coil bridge)
2. Neck north coil
1. Neck series

Not too difficult a setup, and if I had more info on the VLX I would do it easily, but I'm quite unfamiliar with this little bastard.

Failing help on this, or being unable to obtain the specs I need about this switch, I will just get a standard 5 way and install push/pull pots. Thanks a ton.
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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2003, 12:09 AM
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that much-maligned (and for good reason) switch has been discussed at the link below if that helps... glen

http://www.jemsite.com/phpbb/viewtop...ighlight=vlx91

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott of Actual Time
i dug up an old schematic of mine where i had numbered the VLX poles. see
http://www.his.com/~sha3u/gear/vlx91.jpg
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2003, 12:50 AM
 
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I don't know about these switches as I have always felt they were junk, but the Megaswitch E model will accomplish what you are looking for. I have used it on a number of 2 HB equipped guitars. Go to www.stewmac.com for details.
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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2003, 02:56 AM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kabuki
I don't know about these switches as I have always felt they were junk, but the Megaswitch E model will accomplish what you are looking for. I have used it on a number of 2 HB equipped guitars. Go to www.stewmac.com for details.
Hey Kabuki... Actually I thought about getting the Fender SuperSwitch, because there is a local shop here that sells them.

Are you familiar with that one? If I picked up the Mega E, do ya think you'd be able to sketch or make a diagram for me in the pup config that I described above?

I'm beginning to loathe this Nez switch.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2003, 08:58 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
Actually I thought about getting the Fender SuperSwitch, because there is a local shop here that sells them.

Are you familiar with that one? If I picked up the Mega E, do ya think you'd be able to sketch or make a diagram for me in the pup config that I described above?
The Megaswitch has internal jumpers connecting the poles, so you wire it in a simple, old-school type way [e.g. "solder series link from bridge humbucker to pole #4"]; unlike the VLX, where you have to wire your own jumpers because there are no internal ones in the switch. So the Megaswitch doesn't require custom diagrams, but it's way less flexible.

As noted above, the Megaswitch Model E will do what you want, so you should go for it. Even though a store near you probably doesn't have it and you'd have to order from Stew Mac, it is still probably worth every penny unless you want to spend hours designing and troubleshooting your scheme for the VLX or the Fender Super Switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
I'm beginning to loathe this Nez switch.
Don't malign it just because it's geeky!
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2003, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
 
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Oy.. thanks for the help there.

I can think of better sht to spend $20 on however, so if possible I think I'd like to try and get this VLX91 up to speed.

Can you do me a favor, lad? Hit the nez site, hit the wiring schem. section, and hit the 2002 RG3120 diagram.

Scope on this for a tad. Look at just the WHITE lead of the neck pup going to the VLX side of this bugger. It is covering 4 lugs at once. If I were to make a "piggyback" type jumper out of staples and connect those 4 points all together, could I then solder white neck pup lead to any of those? Does each lug need to be precisely separated in an instance such as this, or could I solder a "bar" across all 4 lugs and connect the white lead anywhere along the bar?

These diagrams are bloody awful.
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-25-2003, 04:06 PM Thread Starter
 
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I re-read the other thread where you made a diagram of the lug numbering for the VLX(Satan)91. Did you know that the lugs are actually numbered ON the switch? I just noticed. Super tiny gold numbers for the lugs, and you were correct on your diagram.

I think what I need to wrap my head around this diabolical entity of a switch, is a diagram on WHAT lugs are active at EACH toggle position. Ever see one of those? Kinda like how the Megaswitch E is detailed at the stewmac site. I googled my tail off and found NO releveant info on this VLX91. This switch is SO evil in fact, that I am now compelled by Christ to overcome this adversity and reign as victor in this endeavor.

But the dark side with its standard 5 way and push pull pot calls to me ...
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-26-2003, 08:20 AM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
Did you know that the lugs are actually numbered ON the switch? I just noticed. Super tiny gold numbers for the lugs, and you were correct on your diagram.
i never noticed the tiny numbers, but of course my diagram was correct, or i never would have posted it for other folks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
Look at just the WHITE lead of the neck pup going to the VLX side of this bugger. It is covering 4 lugs at once. If I were to make a "piggyback" type jumper out of staples and connect those 4 points all together, could I then solder white neck pup lead to any of those? Does each lug need to be precisely separated in an instance such as this, or could I solder a "bar" across all 4 lugs and connect the white lead anywhere along the bar?
the lugs should NOT be separated, the whole point is to have the white wire in this case connected to all those poles. yes, the schematic indicates a jumper connecting all those poles. don't make it from a staple, that won't solder well, use a scrap of copper wire and strip all the insulation off.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
I think what I need to wrap my head around this diabolical entity of a switch, is a diagram on WHAT lugs are active at EACH toggle position. Ever see one of those?
that information is in my switch diagram. just like standard diagrams of multi-position switches, the 0 pole is the common and the numbered poles are active in the various switch positions. so when the switch is in position #5 [which is going to be either all the way to the bridge or all the way to the neck, depending on which way you have the switch oriented], then each pole #5 will be connected to its corresponding common pole #0. when you click the switch to position 4, each pole #4 is connected to its common #0. etc.

one caveat: in the stock VLX switches i've gotten from ibanez, there is a jumper from one of the common #0 poles between the two wafer circuit boards to one of the other common #0 poles. it looks like a little rod. if you need a jumper between two common poles, use that side of the switch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
Kinda like how the Megaswitch E is detailed at the stewmac site.
i've never found a diagram for what Megaswitch lugs are active in what position -- do you have a URL for that? i had to trace with a voltmeter and make my own. the Stew Mac diagrams of what coils are active in the Megaswitch positions are not all correct given stock DiMarzio/Duncan wiring instructions, with the slug coil hot.


as for how to make the VLX do the switching that _you_ want, you'll have to figure out what wires need to be connected to what in each position and then draw a schematic for that. e.g.: in position 5, i need the bridge humbucker full on, so i need the hot wire connected to the hot output and the series link wires not connected to anything. and you draw a schematic that makes that happen in position 5. you may have to change or remove the jumpers that are already on the switch, and you may have to add more of your own.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-26-2003, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
 
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Since we have 4 poles and 6 lugs, how do the 4 POLES interact? I realize that lug #5 is for toggle postion 5 (which is bridge position when the switch is far right/all the way down with the OTAX side facing me).

So 5 4 3 2 1 corresponds to the switch positions, that is all well and good, and the 0 or "C", as it is stamped on this switch, is always active regardless of switch position.

Where I get confused is that we are dealing with FOUR poles here.

When toggle is at position 5, does this mean that lug #5 on ALL four poles simultaneously becomes hot? This would be top right corner of VLX side, second from bottom left corner VLX side, and then top left corner OTAX side, and second from bottom right corner OTAX side? That is #5 lug for each of the 4 poles on this switch.

So, something simple like just wiring the bridge pup in series, I know for certain that the hot output MUST go to lug #5 but which pole?? Switch orientatinn should not matter here at all, since lug #5 is ALWAYS bridge position. The only way this would be different is if the switch was physically placed into the guitar incorrectly, ie; if installed backwards, when toggle is physically in the neck position, it would be calling up bridge pickup.

So again, WHICH pole is correct to use? If my logic is right, I could use lug #5 on ANY pole, right? For the sake of this, lets use lug #5 on top right corner of VLX side of switch. I assume I would run the WHITE or south coil finish to this lug. Since I want this pup in series mode, where doe the south start (green) and north start (red) leads go? Obviously bare and north finish (black) go to ground.

Sorry for long post, but I gotta get my head wrapped around this thing. Scott, I was going to email this to you in private, but figured this could be very beneficial to other people who will eventually encounter this dastardly switch and want to do custom wiring.

I personally do not care for the stock #2 position of neck in parallel and #3 with both bridge and neck pups active. I prefer to have #2 be neck north coil only, and #3 be south coil neck/north coil bridge.
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-26-2003, 01:29 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
Since we have 4 poles and 6 lugs, how do the 4 POLES interact?
they don't -- if there are no jumpers connecting them together, they are completely separate. [again, watch out for jumpers already installed].

Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
When toggle is at position 5, does this mean that lug #5 on ALL four poles simultaneously becomes hot?
no, that means that EACH lug #5 is connected to the common lug #0 on EACH of those same corresponding poles. and nothing is "hot" unless you've connected the hot wire to a lug, like one of the common lugs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
So, something simple like just wiring the bridge pup in series, I know for certain that the hot output MUST go to lug #5 but which pole??
it doesn't matter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
For the sake of this, lets use lug #5 on top right corner of VLX side of switch. I assume I would run the WHITE or south coil finish to this lug. Since I want this pup in series mode, where doe the south start (green) and north start (red) leads go? Obviously bare and north finish (black) go to ground.
for standard series humbucking mode, you want the series wrap wires connected to each other [this is PROBABLY your green and red, but you should check to be sure] and the hot wire connected through the switch to hot [probably the white wire in your example above]. there are many equivalent ways to wire a humbucker, and the manufacturer's directions are just one suggested example.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
I personally do not care for the stock #2 position of neck in parallel and #3 with both bridge and neck pups active. I prefer to have #2 be neck north coil only, and #3 be south coil neck/north coil bridge.
you should make a list of what wires need to be connected to what for each of the 5 positions, based on what coils you want active. for example, your #2 would be something like "neck series link connected to hot." [if you don't know what that means or what wires should be the series link, you may need to read up on humbucker wiring some more.] then you need to draw a schematic that will have the switch make all those connections for you.
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post #11 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-26-2003, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
 
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Big props and thanks to Scott of Actual Time for his help through this thread, email and via phone. *I am Fed Ex Overnighting him 4 cases of Heineken, a JEM10, a 2KDNA, a Soldano X99 MIDI preamp, and an autographed 8" x 10" glossy of David Hassellhoff for all of his help.

Hopefully this thread will help other poor souls with this switch and save a lot of time.

Bottom line is this. My switch was silk-screened incorrectly and I was following the lug numbers that were silk-screened, ASSUMING they were correct. So every time I would wire her up it was NOT sounding right. I was beginning to lose my mind looking at diagrams and wondering why the hell everything was opposite of what my switch was dictating to me. Bottom line, do not go off of what is silk-screened on this thing.

I finally put my multi-meter to this bizznizzle and confirmed what I thought may be true... some goombah at the factory silk screened my switch improperly. Hind sight being 20/20 I should have used my multi meter from the get go, but for some reason I just ASSumed that it was labeled properly.

So... save a headache and don't look for or at any silk-screening on a VLX, just use a multi.

I've got her wired EXACTLY was I wanted now, thank god. I'm also going to try and clone one of Scott's setups involing a push/pull for even more additional sounds. Right now this is perfect, and exactly what I was after.



* Bonus gifts limited to current availability; no guarantee of stock.
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post #12 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-26-2003, 05:56 PM
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
Big props and thanks to Scott of Actual Time for his help through this thread, email and via phone.
no problem, glad it worked out, availablility of bonus gifts not withstanding!

Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonFriedman
So... save a headache and don't look for or at any silk-screening on a VLX, just use a multi.
or use my diagram, which was generated with a multimeter and is correct: http://www.his.com/~sha3u/gear/vlx91.jpg . phone tech support availability is also limited!
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post #13 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-26-2003, 05:57 PM
 
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Can I get at least a 6 pack of Heineken for trying to help?
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post #14 of 14 (permalink) Old 09-26-2003, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kabuki
Can I get at least a 6 pack of Heineken for trying to help?
Hehe... I'm thinkin' more along the lines of a 20 oz Milwaukees Beast in a can. =)

Thanks, though... nice to finally have this switch under my belt.

BTW... any of you cats have a BREED bridge?
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breed bridge , bridge hum , bridge humbucker , bridge pickup , bridge position , bridge pup , equipped guitar , neck position , neck pup , paf pro , paf pro neck , pro neck , wiring diagram

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